FYI Motor Oil 20W-50, NFG & not factory approved, see page 111 of Owner Manual

[CHICKS]

"What will keep a diesel engine clean fails to do the job in a gasoline engine because the deposits are different, the fuel is different, the running conditions are different, and the oil's additive package is different."

[vbjunker]

If you say so, but I'll stick with Rotella T6 for my cars and motorcycles.
As always, stick with whatever you have researched and put your faith in.

[dlearl]

Originally Posted by azbanks

Does anyone have any info on Motul.

Flash, come sit in traffic on the freeway in Phoenix for 45-60 minutes when it is 118. Yeah, 20-50 is good for that.

(Hot summers in Canada. LOL! LOL! Some of you guys crack me up. )

I've used it in all my vehicles for years. When I got my 968 back, I called my rep and asked for a recommend. Lucky for me he recommended the same oil I use in my Smart: 5w/40 8100 X-cess. Looks like Chuck (my rep) is in good company.

"WHICH MOTOR OIL DO I (CHARLES NAVARRO) USE?
For cars under warranty, we use primarily Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40, which is still a mid-SAPS oil with higher Zn and P levels than the low or no-SAPS oils favored by manufacturers for emissions system protection. Both used oil analysis and physical engine teardowns have proven this lubricant to be a superior choice to Mobil 1. Although we are still fans of Brad Penn, outside of warranty, we recommend Joe Gibbs Racing lubricants due to how closely they have worked with Flat 6 Innovations and us in developing their oils for use in Porsche models.

Very important in my consideration of any oils are that they have the proper balance of Zn and P as well as level of detergency. Oils with high detergency need equally high levels of anti-wear additives as well as those oils using Ca-based detergents also need more Zn and P that those oils that use Mg and/or Na detergents.

I do not recommend using ZDDP boosters of any kind"


http://lnengineering.com/index.php/resources/2014/02/28/frequently-asked-questions-about-motor-oils/



BTW, When I previously owned the 968 and lived in Las Vegas, Chuck recommended 15W-50 300V racing oil, due to the summer heat.

Happy Trails

[pfarah]

Man, am I confused!
What freakin oil should I use? My 84 NA has 112k on her, I don't beat her at all but will enjoy a spirited drive once in a while. Most times I hang around 3000-3500 shifts (once warmed up) but will never exceed 5.5k. I very recently changed my oil to Mobil 1 0W-40 (for European Cars) as I would hear a little tappet sound for a quick moment, particularly when she sits for a while and in real cold weather. I've been using Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W-40 (summer) and 10W-30 (winter) until now. Since the new oil, I've noticed much better starting and reaching perfect idle instantly however; there are a couple of you guys suggesting to stay away from 0W-40 although the local P-Dealer says differently. Living in Southern New England, the temps can vary greatly from the low 40's to high 70's in the fall. I certainly don't want to spin my bearings.

[VirginiaF1]

Originally Posted by vbjunker

Rotella T6 full synthetic 5w40
High (1200) ZDDP and phosphorous, buy it in Wally World at a reasonable price. My choice after reading a ton of these discussions.
]

FTW!
Based on the critical TBN & TAN factors, Blackstone's analyses found my T6 good for 9,500 mile intervals and my T3 good for 6,500...
All on an engine approaching 300k..

[DannoXYZ]

Here's the certifications for Rotella-T6:



HDEO qualifies for more types of service due to its more ruggedness. JASO MA for motorcycles. API-SM and higher ZDDP than other 40w oils. And one of the few with European ACEA approval, and not the old A3/B4 standard either.

Shows the issue here is some people go with quantitative measureable standards, while others fall for qualitative hearsay and I-heard/he-said/she-said type of gossip.

[AaronM]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

I think the ZDDP levels were only lowered in oil-weights less than 50.

The Blackstone analysis from my Mobil 1 0W40 came back with 1169 ppm ZDDP, which is well above what the new spec supposedly limits it to.

[VirginiaF1]

Originally Posted by AaronM

The Blackstone analysis from my Mobil 1 0W40 came back with 1169 ppm ZDDP, which is well above what the new spec supposedly limits it to.

Good to know..
.Pdf shows 1000 ppm Phos & 1100 ppm Zinc out of the bottle.
How many miles were on the oil change interval?
How many miles on the engine?

[Jfrahm]

Originally Posted by CHICKS

"What will keep a diesel engine clean fails to do the job in a gasoline engine because the deposits are different, the fuel is different, the running conditions are different, and the oil's additive package is different."

Rotella has a spark ignition certification too, "SM" in this case. Mobil 1 0w40 also has a compression and spark ignition certification for diesel and spark. It seems to be commonplace that an oil can meet the standards for both, if an oil lacks one or the other I would suspect they did not seek the certification or leave it off the label for marketing reasons.

[AaronM]

Originally Posted by VirginiaF1

Good to know..
.Pdf shows 1000 ppm Phos & 1100 ppm Zinc out of the bottle.
How many miles were on the oil change interval?
How many miles on the engine?

3,000 miles on the oil, 171,000 miles on the engine. The short interval was because I'd recently had the valve guides and lifters replaced as a "while you're in there" item during a head gasket replacement. I changed it early to check on things and get a reading.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by AaronM

3,000 miles on the oil, 171,000 miles on the engine. The short interval was because I'd recently had the valve guides and lifters replaced as a "while you're in there" item during a head gasket replacement. I changed it early to check on things and get a reading.

Which API rating is this?

[AaronM]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Which API rating is this?

Whatever the API rating is on Mobil 1 0w40. According to Mobil, it's "SN/SM/SL/SJ."

[kjhkjhg]

yup - i was a dino oil guy forever. then i actually learned something about oils, and now will never run dino oil in anything, especially something with some miles on it.

[VirginiaF1]

Spambots.. sheesh. ^^^^
Anyway, my latest Blackstone just arrived on 6,500 miles.
Rotella 15w-40:
Phosphorus: 1090
Zinc: 1160
TBN: 6.9
With one slight exception (Chromium), No out of whack metals, fuel or antifreeze in the oil.
This is my fifth sample with them in 3 years and all have been rated quite good.
They recommend extending to 7,500 miles on the next OCI
since the Total Base Number is still so strong at 6,500.

I do change my filter every 3,000 miles...

[flash968]

slightly off topic, but very annoying and might make some here feel better:

i bought a new 2014 BMW X5 M series 5.0 with the twin power turbo V8. the idea was to replace the 2006 yukon denali with something new and zero maintenance. i was stunned when at about 3000 miles it showed to be 2 quarts low. the warning indicator came on, skipping right past the 1 quart warning. there is no dip stick by the way. all computer controlled and monitored. anyway, BMW says that 1 quart ever 700 miles is acceptable. i haven't had anything new that burned oil in over a decade. i didn't think cars did that anymore. but, apparently the turbo bmws do. just crazy to me.

so, to those of you who go through a quart now and then on your $3000 944, feel good. i am going through a quart every 1500 miles on a brand new $85k car.

[smudo]

Originally Posted by flash968

slightly off topic, but very annoying and might make some here feel better:

i bought a new 2014 BMW X5 M series 5.0 with the twin power turbo V8. the idea was to replace the 2006 yukon denali with something new and zero maintenance. i was stunned when at about 3000 miles it showed to be 2 quarts low. the warning indicator came on, skipping right past the 1 quart warning. there is no dip stick by the way. all computer controlled and monitored. anyway, BMW says that 1 quart ever 700 miles is acceptable. i haven't had anything new that burned oil in over a decade. i didn't think cars did that anymore. but, apparently the turbo bmws do. just crazy to me.

so, to those of you who go through a quart now and then on your $3000 944, feel good. i am going through a quart every 1500 miles on a brand new $85k car.

OT: That's nothing unusual for the recent gasoline engines here in Europe (Audi, BMW, VWs), and not only turbo. Although for the newer models of those manufacturers you cannot by any non turbo model anymore. This is side effect of the EU regulations with respect to fuel consumption and CO2 emissions. In order to reduce those numbers, the manufacturers have to reduce the friction in the engine, thus thinner oils are used together with bigger gaps between engine parts where you have the biggest friction. All this results in significant oil consumption. That particular V8 is known for huge oil consumption, especially in the non-M version (the same engine comes with X5, X6, 7, 6 and 5 series).

I have a question about the original topic of this thread. What do you think about using of so called "racing" oils like Motul V300 (they come in various viscosity, starting from 0W15 up to 15W50 - year ago there was also 20W60 option, that seems to be no longer available). I was considering 15W50 as I don't drive my 951 in the winter. However, I cannot find info about the ZDDP levels in those engines as well I don't know for how long intervals is that racing engine good if at all for street use. I manage to drive only around 2000 mile per year (i.e. between oil changes).

[A horse with no name]

[QUOTE=kjhkjhg;8321658]yup - i was a dino oil guy forever. then i actually learned something about oils, and now will never run dino oil in anything, especially something with some miles on it.

Of course to use or not use a synthetic or Dino oil can depend on how many miles per year, including how fast you drive. If it is 'high' & 'fast' then go Synthetic. It has as you know a much higher heat range which is especially good when racing.

I have used full synthetic's and now choose to have two dino oil changes in our family car (5-30) rather than one with synthetic. We only put on 7000K a year average. It's mainly the carbon in the oil that wears it out that's why vehicles on natural gas go forever- No carbon.

If one always keeps their oil looking like new even when changing it- all will be well as there is little to no carbon in it... Diamonds are created from carbon.

Re using synthetic oil in high mileage engines may not be the thing to do. Synthetic's viscosity is very thin when hot and it is know to leak through seals on older engines. Because it's viscosity is so thin you can also end up with a noisier engine on high milers. Being so thin it will slide through very small gaps where as Dino tends not to..

From new, our Carrera ('86' - 75,000K) has never leaked oil from anywhere with either the originally recommended Dino oil nor the Mobil 1 15-50 full synthetic.

The above is only my option which would be only one of hundreds/thousands of opinions when it comes to what oil to use. Only my 2˘ worth .

[H.F.944]

All that zinc / phosphorus stuff discussion is very interesting.
But what is so special regarding the 944 engine? If I understand things correctly, rodbearings etc. are generally nothing special and as well the 944 camshaft lobe operates a simple hydraulic bucket tappet. So what, there are zillions of cars worldwide with bucket tappet operated valve trains on the roads. From New Zealand over Burundi to Alaska and many more countries.
I can't imagine that just our 944 engine should have a zinc / phosphorus stuff or oil problem.
Apart from that, below is an extract of the service manual of the 911GT3 RSR (2007 Model competition car), 3800cc/485hp and there Mobil1 0W-40 is recommended.
Ok, I'm aware that's no 944 engine.

[curtisr]

My conclusion?

None of the aforementioned brands/weights/origin of oils will hurt my engine. Only traffic jams hurts my motor when I have to go so slow (with apologies to James Taylor).

[dhfghgfjh]

yup - i was a dino oil guy forever. then i actually learned something about oils, and now will never run dino oil in anything, especially something with some miles on it.