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ae1969's Avatar
 
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Pulled engine from the top

So the engine comes out pretty easily from the top.

The only thing to keep in mind (some are similar to dropping the engine from underneath.

1. Disconnect the power steering pump and let it hang.
2. AC disconnect and let it hang.
3. Remove the Engine Support on the drivers side. This can be removed with the engine half-way out. This will make sure you don't smash the master cylinder to bits with it.

Thats about all that comes to mind from the experience.

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Old 11-29-2002, 11:10 AM
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I removed the bell housing from the engine and the nine clutch bolts after removing the starter. Leaving the bell housing on the torq tube along with the pressure plate, clutch disk, throw out bearing, clutch hydraulics, etc.

Did remove the speed and reference sensors.

Didn't have to remove any engine supports or the exhaust manifolds.

Did remove the fans and the radiator. Could have left the radiator in place now that I've done this once. Also the alternator and the AC compressor.

Did remove the power steering pulley and did leave the PS pump with the chassis.

Did take the hood off after marking it. Still a pig to get back on straight.

Putting an engine back in requires the additional adjustable support between the lift and the engine. There is some rocking and rotation that has to occur to get the bell housing lined up with the engine block. The end of the drive shaft helps as it finds the pilot bearing like a squirrel looking for it's home.

Dropping the cross support down on it's four bolts helps for bell housing alignment as well as getting to the top bolts.
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Old 11-29-2002, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SoCal Driver
I removed the bell housing from the engine and the nine clutch bolts after removing the starter. Leaving the bell housing on the torq tube along with the pressure plate, clutch disk, throw out bearing, clutch hydraulics, etc.

Did remove the speed and reference sensors.

Didn't have to remove any engine supports or the exhaust manifolds.

Did remove the fans and the radiator. Could have left the radiator in place now that I've done this once. Also the alternator and the AC compressor.

Did remove the power steering pulley and did leave the PS pump with the chassis.

Did take the hood off after marking it. Still a pig to get back on straight.

Putting an engine back in requires the additional adjustable support between the lift and the engine. There is some rocking and rotation that has to occur to get the bell housing lined up with the engine block. The end of the drive shaft helps as it finds the pilot bearing like a squirrel looking for it's home.

Dropping the cross support down on it's four bolts helps for bell housing alignment as well as getting to the top bolts.
I agree on all of those... I also took the rad out but probably won't the next time around.

The hood is a lot heavier than I remember thats for sure...
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Old 11-29-2002, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ae1969


I agree on all of those... I also took the rad out but probably won't the next time around.

The hood is a lot heavier than I remember thats for sure...
Got the 14 year old to help carry the hood over the top of the car and sit it on old bath matts on the back of the car.

I would seriously consider doing a clutch replacement this way with an NA rather than pulling the trans.
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When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
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Old 11-29-2002, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SoCal Driver


Did remove the speed and reference sensors.

Shaddap!

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Old 11-29-2002, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by todwic

Shaddap!


Oooooo!

Should have called them the Todwic Sensors!!!!!


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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
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When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
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Old 11-29-2002, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SoCal Driver



I would seriously consider doing a clutch replacement this way with an NA rather than pulling the trans.

Seriously? I found it much easier to align the torque tube into the pilot bearing with the engine in place.

When I was bringing the engine back up up into the engine compartment, I thought it was terribly difficult to get the torque tube input shaft aligned to pilot bearing.

Must just be my hand eye coordiantion.
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Old 11-29-2002, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scott R



Seriously? I found it much easier to align the torque tube into the pilot bearing with the engine in place.

When I was bringing the engine back up up into the engine compartment, I thought it was terribly difficult to get the torque tube input shaft aligned to pilot bearing.

Must just be my hand eye coordiantion.
From the top Scott. With the bell housing still on the torq tube along with all of the clutch stuff. Only the flywheel on the engine.

Top or bottom, once the engine is in alignment with the drive shaft the pilot bearing is the first thing to see the torq tube/bell housing assembly.

Did have some probs getting the engine to rotate axially to get the first bell housing bolts to start. This is where I dropped the front crossmember a bit leaving it hanging on the four bolts.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
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Old 11-29-2002, 01:33 PM
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You know.....

You have a good point Socal...

The clutch job should be done this way (pulling the engine)

The clutches on these cars last such a long time and are such a PITA to change.....and at this mileage it would be a great idea to change every possible gasket/seal at this point specially the oil pan and rear seal.

Once you have the engine out the engine could be completely cleaned up and you would probably get another 150,000 miles out of it with no problem.
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Old 11-29-2002, 03:59 PM
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Exactly!

Include engine mounts too.

Flywheel seal.

Oil cooler seals.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
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When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
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Old 11-29-2002, 04:40 PM
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Man, after you mentioned that I am kicking myself in the head! No better time to reseal the turbo and oil pan.

Both of which took me many painstaking hours.
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Old 11-29-2002, 07:12 PM
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The "trick" of putting the engine back in is after the bell housing is bolted to the engine and the engine sat back down on the cross member and all of the major supports are bolted back together -- engine mounts etc. The nine bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel have a 3 x 3 x 3 pattern. Take the spark plugs out to make it easy to rotate the engine and get these lined up and started a few turns. Once all nine are in you can start to set then a few turns at a time. Something you would have done with the engine out but a bit more time consuming with the engine in.

Still less time that futzzing with the trans and torq tube.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 11-29-2002, 07:26 PM
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From what I remember when I took my engine out from the top there was just enough room to get it out with the rad out. Though I did still have the bellhousing on so maybe that's the difference.

But, I do agree about taking the engine out for the clutch job. It's really not that much more work and not that hard if you take your time and mark everything as you take it apart. I also took some pictures of mine when I was taking it out which helped out alot.

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Old 11-29-2002, 10:32 PM
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