correct way to fill the radiator ?

[Eduardo Castrejón Elbjorn]

Today was my first time that I tried to fill the radiator but was difficult to tried to fill the radiator by the water deposit (filler cap ). Because don´t admits a lot of water.

I don´t know if I need to wait until the temp goes up.

I disconnected the head water hose and filled the radiator by this hose then I started the engine, after some seconds the water wents out by the head hose neck ( not a lot of water, I impressed about the little pressure , I supose that when is completely dilated tha thermostat will be more pressure, I hope) then I connected the hose and continue filling the radiator by the filer cap.
I continue running the engine until the fan turns on and I continue filling until the level is correct, I pressed the hose to try to take out some bubbles.

which or what is the correct way ?

[Scott R]

This is probably an obvious question, but do you have the bleeder open?

Thats all I have ever had to do on a complete refill.

[Eduardo Castrejón Elbjorn]

Hi Scott (fast answer)

No, I don´t.

I don´t have idea where is this bleeder, can you please let me know ?
when I take out the radiator I saw a plastic bolt, do is this piece ?

Then I need to open the bleeder , start the engine and fill ?

[wjk_glynn]

Read Clark Fletchers procedure here:

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-02.htm

Karl.

[Scott R]

Sorry I don't have a picture handy, but just below the 1st injector you will see a water inlet housing, with a cooling hose attached to it. On that housing is a 12mm bolt with a copper washer, thats the bleeder.

Open the bleeder and then fill the coolant reseviour until coolant starts to run out. Close it and run the engine a bit, open it to bleed any remaining air from the system.

Also check the archives, there are some excellent "home made" bleeding procedures that are well documented.

I personaly hook up a coolant pressure tester to the coolant tank and pump it up to about 5psi then open the bleeder.

[todwic]

No, not the plastic bolt. (at the bottom of the radiator, I am assuming you mean. Yours is an '84 w/auto like mine, so I'm guessing you have the same set up as I do. Firstly, a lot of folks suggest you jack the front end up about a foot, but I never do, it's a lot of effort to put water in your car. Up to you.

• Turn your heater selection to hot. Mucho Caliente!!
• Open radiator cap
• Now inbetween your Camshaft housing and you Airflow meter is the hose that goes from the driver's side of the radiator to the top center of your block. Where the hose ends is a fitting/housing in between where the hose ends and the block begins. There are 3 screws on the top, one is way taller than the other two, closest to your camshaft housing, on in the middle, and one closest your AFS. The middle one is your bleeder screw. It looks like a regular bolt, but it's hollow. Loosen it up a few turns.
• add coolant/water (be sure and use phosphate free!!!) untill it starts to come out your bleeder
• tighten bleeder untill you have barely a trickle

Now there are at least two ways to do this.

1. you can either start you car and keep it at at least 2000 RPM's so the water pump is forcing all of the air out of all the little nook and crannies and out the bleeder. Leave it cracked untill you no longer see any air bubbles escaping the bleeder. Tighten bleeder. replace pressure cap.
2. Or, the way I do it:fill the expansion tank all the way up and replace cap. Blow air into the system via the overflow hose. (the cap will hold back about 12 psi, i think). once you pressurize the system, crack the bleeder screw untill air goes away or the air bubbles stop. repeat untill system is good and bled.

After you drive it somewhere, I usually give the system one last bleed just to make sure that it's done. I hope this helps.

[todwic]

Or you can do what scott sez

[Scott R]

I figured I would add the coolant pressure tester idea in since it seems like Eduardo has an excellent set of tools!

[todwic]

Good call, man!

[Roger Hall]

Eduardo Castrejón Elbjorn you are one determined hombre. I have alot of respect for you. Reading your posts makes me want to drive to Alcapolco. Best of luck Amigo.

[Eduardo Castrejón Elbjorn]

thanks for your answers , Scott, Karl,Todwic

Roger:

Was the necesity !, but I can´t did it without the help of this forum, great partership !

what about the water wetter ?

I live in hot place then I only use a 25 % of anifreeze only to not have rust. I had great results with this.

I month ago I use a water wetter (coolant not antifreeze ) in my L98 daily driver and I had better results. this is not subjective beause I saw my temp gauge and read less.
I always use the ac then both fans turn on inmediatly and like already say I had cooler readings.

[todwic]

I use water wetter, I think it helps. Other's don't agree.

[Roy Patterson]

The heater control valve is vacuum operated and will not open by turning the knob to the heat position if the engine is not running. Also it requires constant vacuum to remain open.
You have to pull the heater valve vacuum line, suck on it until the valve at the rear of the head opens then wedge a long screw driver or other tool against the actuator to hold it open. Pinching the vacuum line or capping it will not work, it will bleed down and close. Otherwise no coolant will circulate through the heater core; if it has been drained it will cause a problem.

It has been my experience with the closed coolant systems on late model cars that the amount of coolant is closely calculated and with just a small amount missing the engine will overheat. With aluminum heads on cast iron blocks the heads warp before you can shut the engine down.

Pay close attention to getting the air out of the system a small amount will cause problems.