thank you very much MPDano for the pics. ill take pics of mine when i get hom and line it all up and everything. i need to remove my spark plugs correct? and put the car in nuetral, and does it matter wich of those wheels i turn to turn the engine? or should i do the middle of the three or what?

thanks again

Take your coil wire off for safety.

Put the car in neutral

Turn the crank bolt clockwise ( as you look at it from the front of the car) and the belt will turn the cam gears along with crank.



For the record, it's doubtfull that it's a cam timing issue. You didn't mess with the cam timing and it ran before you pulled the vacuum lines, injectors and rotated the distributor. Go ahead and check it though. That way, you can eliminate that as a problem.

Good luck Relax, we will help you find your problem.

Hey Fabio,

I only mention timing as he did remove the distributor bolt, so it is possible the distributor lifted enough to jump teeth. Just trying to eliminate it is off time.

All Threads like this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-928-Billet-Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em 14QQhashZitem3ef732af3cQQitemZ270435266364QQptZRac eQ5fCarQ5fParts

Maybe you want to call me sometime this weekend and we can have a troubleshooting session. Might make things easier. I hate to hear that your still not running after such a simple and probably needed repair. By the way those pics I sent you have pretty extensive vacuume diagrams. Only one vacuume line on the dizzy? Interesting, do you have a euro car? If so I'm not sure the advance is correct for you. Anybody with a euro know for sure what the correct advance should be?

Ps. Did it run good after you changed the dampner or did you d this at the same time?

I'll email yuo my cell number.

if you look at Leo's pics of the cam gears, the red arrow is pointing to a casting mark, not the timing mark on the gear.

the timing mark on the gear is actually a notch on the back side of the gear (FWMs item #2). this notch must line up with the raised portions of the cam tower end bearing caps (where the green arrow is pointing).

line these marks up to see if your cams are timed correctly.

--Russ

Yupper, this is why I included the last pic of the WSM. Russ is on the $$, the mark will be on the inside (side of cam toward engine) opposite my Red Arrow 180 degrees.

ok, thanks, im doing the engine turning right now. and that damper had nothing to do with anything. before, the fuel passed through the diagrahm into the vacuum line so i needed a clamp there. now the diagrahm is good so i took the clamp off.

ive actually been wondering if i have a euro spec myself. im really not sure haha. i found the timing notch, it was located a little over 90 degrees of the cast triangle mark, not 180 degrees. there are in the same place on both cams, but when i lined them up with the timing marks on the housing, there were no numbers shown on the orange wheel below. il show pics here in a minute.

the distributer however, the rotor was pointing toward the #1 plug wire.

there were 2 teeth on the cams that had red dots on them. could these have been used for the timing instead of the notch? that would make the numbers show on the wheel below

[IMG]<a href="http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu21/paintballer317/?action=view&current=HPIM0502-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu21/paintballer317/HPIM0502-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
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<a href="http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu21/paintballer317/?action=view&current=HPIM0504.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu21/paintballer317/HPIM0504.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

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the regulatr is for an 87+ because it looked like it would fit and the one for an 83 didnt. (thought i might have a newer motor, haha) they look similar...

i think the cams are timed off of the red dots not the notches, would that really effect anything?

[IMG]<a href="http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu21/paintballer317/?action=view&current=HPIM0513-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu21/paintballer317/HPIM0513-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]

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[IMG]<a href="http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu21/paintballer317/?action=view&current=HPIM0516.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu21/paintballer317/HPIM0516.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]

red dots lined up make it about 23 degrees advance, the distributer rotor is pointing at #5

i think whoever it was, timed it off the #5 cylinder instead of the #1. the timing belt looks new. im not sure, any ideas?

I would start taking things apart at this point. Get a TB/water pump and pull the front of the engine apart. Anytime timing marks are screwed up I get really nervous.

Turn the motor to TDC on the Crank. Pull number one spark plug and tell us if the piston is all the way down or up. Turn it 360 degrees again and see if number one is all the way down or up? This will tell us if there is a chance that the counterweight was installed 180 out.

Here is a good site for timing with pics.

http://members.rennlist.com/sharkskin/Pages_SA_R27-TB-WP.htm

now we are really getting to the nitty gritty.....

disregard any (paint) marks on the cam gears---

use only the notches on the rear face of the gears (per FWMs) for cam timing.

Yes, the balancer can be installed backwards! to check this, so as it has been said here, removing the #1 plug and rotating the engine to #1 top-dead-center. Your balancer marks should show it to be at o/t. IF NOT, your balancer may be installed backwards.


bottom line is:

if you line up the cam gear notches to the castings on the cam bearing caps, and the balancer does not show o/t on the pointer (top dead center)----your cams are not timed properly, resulting in no compression.

no compression--it ain't going to run.

let us know---

--Russ

See, now we are getting somewhere. Time was off. Disregard any of those red dots put there by the PO. Use ONLY the casted marks and notches that I have shown in my pics. As a matter of fact, get rid of all those red marks.

Your lucky your working with an early 16 valve engine and not a late 16V or 32V, you would have crashed your valves and possibly your piston heads.

Now, lets get your car on time and I bet that byatch is gonna start right up.

hey guys, i regret to inform you all, i did something extremely stupid just now :( i was turning the motor to the o/t position like you said to see if #1 is at TDC or bottom of the stroke. well, to see, i had one of those telescoping mirrors with a magnet on the handle end and stuck that down in there to see it go up and down as i turned the motor to see if it was up or down. well, when it was going up, i saw it bending and i pulled it out so nothing would happen, and the magnet end fell of down inside the cylinder:eek: i dont know what to do, i ran to auto zone and got another magnet but the peice down inside the cylinder is alluminum so it doesnt help. its too deep for pliers, i dont know what to do other than take it apart and pull it out. thats gonna be ALOT of work and take a couple weeks probably. any ideas?

Yeah, that was pretty stupid ;) Just kidding. Sheeit happens. Put that cylinder in it's down stroke and tray again with something long that will stick to the magnet inside the cylinder. Make sure that thier are no sharp edges so you don't scratch your walls. Be patient and you'll get it out. No more cranking till this magnet is completely out. Hopefully that magnet is not sticking to a metal valve, then it could be a byotch to get out. If it's on the bottom, it shouldn't stick to your aluminum piston head or cylinder walls.

how do i put it in its downstroke if i dont crank anymore? and thats good news, i didnt know the walls and piston were aluminum. i can see it, its down a little slope pointing toward the outside of the engine toward the passenger side. i need some like, real long sweezers or something

and, its not just the magnet down there, its the handle of the mirror too. so if something attaches to the magnet, it will grab the bottom of the stick and it will probably try to flip over. so i think grabbing it with magnetic stuff is out of the question.

ive come up with 2 plans to get it out.

1. one of those long wire things with the claws on the end and a spring in the handle made for grabbing non magnetic stuff in deep hard to reach spots.

2. some crazy or super glue dabbed on the end of the aluminum that it broke off of and let it sit on the broken piece inside the cylinder for a minute or two the vioala! its out.

im about 87.3897% sure one of these two plans will work, i have alot of hope so that raises it up to 95% sure one of these will work, but i really dont know. ill let you know after i try

Man, you crack me up. Keep us informed.