No Start

[Gil928]

All-
purchased 81 US (non starter), engine looks in solid shape. Replaced fuel pump, relay, and fuel filter. Dropped tank, drained (old gas) and replaced in tank strainer.
I'm getting solid spark and engine is turning over well- tries to catch, but no dice.
I'm guessing since I've fixed the pump and relay, my issue is with injectors- what's my best course of action at this point?

[Gil928]

Also- discovered that the Y connector for the charcoal canister missing- this is non critical, other than gas fume removal, right?

[Landseer]

Injector relay is the next check.

I assume you hear the fuel pump? (if not, jumper it 30 to 87).

Make a 3-way jumper wire and link 30 to 87 to 87 or, 30 to 87 to 87a, depending on the labeling on the side of the injection relay.

Try that.

Clean all ground points also. And the little red wire on the positive battery lead.


If not these things, then it could be 2 or 3 dozen different failure modes, or a combination of them.

[Gil928]

Replaced the injector relay. Pump is running when I hit the starter. I've cleaned the red wire (on battery), checking the ground points now, will advise shortly.

I've attached 3 pics-

1st pic is off green wire that looks like still has connection, but obviously needs repair- any idea what this is for? right below my finger is a white wire that I found unplugged, cannot find a hookup for and can't locate on wiring diagram- any ideas?

2nd pic is of 2 red wire connections that I found hanging, don't see any issues, but looks like they were pulled by PO- any ideas on what these are?

3rd pic is starter (alternate) that PO did- when pushed in, starter engages- i'm guessing PO did this due to issues with ignition (but no problems now with key)- can I just cap each of these off-- or, is this possibly contribution to no start issue?

thanks
Jim

[JK McDonald]

Hey Gil928, Don’t forget to check that fuel pressure is actually reaching the injectors. On the CIS system the pivot arm that regulates the ratio of air/fuel to throttle movement within the control unit can be stuck from sitting in old fuel too long. This caked on varnish can really play havoc with the small plunger that basically controls every aspect of vehicle operation. As the accelerator is pressed, incoming air passing the air plate should push the arm inward from it’s static position to allow a precisely metered amount of fuel pressure to reach all the injectors. The more the throttle is opened - the more the arm moves and progressively more fuel is delivered.

For a quick test (engine off) with the fuel pump relay energized or jumpered / pump running - manually move the airflow arm and you should hear a high pitched squeal (EEEEEEeeeee yea ah ah) as the injectors begin to fire.

Well maybe not yea-ah-ah but at least the EEEEeeeee

Good Luck, Michael

[MPDano]

Yes, I agree to the "EEEEEeeeeee" sounds

[Gil928]

Where do I find the airflow arm?

[MPDano]

Pull off your aircleaner assembly and that round plate is your airflow arm. Push it like Michael says and it should make noise.

[JK McDonald]

Hey Gil928, Some other owners will probably need to add some guidance here but in the above 3 photos :

Photo #1 - I think the white two prong connector (+12 volt/ground) powers the heater element inside the Oxygen sensor unit. The large round barrel connector/green wire is the single wire Oxygen sensor output.. There should be a hole in the floor on the passenger side of the center hump that will have the other connector mates that lead down to the catalytic converter and Oxygen sensor. I had to drop the twin exhaust down pipes/cat to replace the Oxygen sensor on mine. Old sensors are usually rust welded in place so be prepared for a real wrestling match to change....

Photo #2 - I think the two separate inline fuses (red wire/white stripe) provide +12 volts to the left and right door lock motors.

Photo #3 - Is definitely the warp engagement button for the muffler bearing. Actually Gil928 I think you’re right - this may have been some kind of temporary switch to engage the starter (?) for some reason. You should trace this one out and disconnect the wires since you mentioned that the key/ignition switch is working properly.

Good Luck, Michael

[Landseer]

Try the three way jumper. Doesn't matter that you already replaced the fuel injector relay. The issue may be low voltage on the actuation circuit. ( Its happened before ).

[Gil928]

ok-
I pulled off airbox (the MAF was not seated properly- had to get that pushed in there correctly)- I jumped the fuel pump relay and got a constant running of the fuel pump relay and then pushed down the flappy valve- no whining from the injectors.
I then jumped the injector relay (87 and 30)- could not get a start that way either.
I did use ether down the flappy when I had the airbox off and got solid ignition- so I know it's something in the fuel delivery system- any other checks or possible solution?
thanks-

[Landseer]

Remember, injector relay jump requires a three-way wire. 87 to 87 to 30. Won't work otherwise.

[JhwShark]

The pump works when you jump and the starter turns when you jump the starter.

Have you looked at your 14 pin connector and front wire harness? You could have degraded wire shielding on any of the 7 or so wires that go from 14 pin top to the alt, starter, and an oil sensor. Look real close and into the wire jacket which is probably hard not soft. Inside, my yellow starter wire was fried (shield crumbled) and corroded and most the others are cracked. I was having intermittent starting issues...
Jon

[Gil928]

I did the three way jump (30 to 87 to 87) on the Fuel Injector relay- not hearing anything making noise when I do this, tried to start- it'll catch w / ether, but won't hold and as I turn, cannot hear injectors firing-

[JhwShark]

Are you getting 12v at pin 30 socket of the FI relay when you try to start?
Do you have an AT?
Try jumping a know 12v source at the panel to both 87 pin sockets and check.

[DanielDudley]

We are assuming here of course that your timing belt didn't slip, and that cam and distributor timing are correct. Being old school, I have been known to use starter fluid to check and see if an engine will run before running down the fuel issues.

I have never used one, but I understand a noid light will plug into an injector lead, and tell you if the system is firing the injectors. Not expensive. Also suspect is the fuel pressure regulator, and they do fail sometimes and thus no pressure to the injectors. Some people will put a gauge on the line, or crimp the return line.

[american-kiwi]

if its been sitting a long time(you said non runner)...you may need new injectors too...gas gone solid inside the injectors
PS...did you replace both pumps?...some have a 2nd pump...inside the pass side rear wheel well right up by the tail-light