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Will do Leo, I can get to it a little later. We're all wrapped up! Sway bar is back on nice and easy. Pulled the alternator bracket, belt and had to loosen some of the bolts around the front of the oil pan, but the last bolt is in and all is good there. And lastly, with a little silicone lube and a flat head screwdriver, the o2 sensor grommet is in, garage is cleaned up and life is good. Here's a few pics with the new mounts. If you reference the before pic a few posts up, you can definitely see how much higher above the CM the engine is sitting.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359234650.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359234679.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359234704.jpg Bottom is moderately cleaner. Compared to what it was, vast improvement, enjoy the weekend fellas! |
Hows the vibration now?
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Honestly, haven't had it out yet. Need to grab a new battery, this one crapped out. And some sludge from the oil pan apparently got into one of the holes for the oil tube bolts and it's not tightening down so when I topped the oil I started to get drips. Had a rough schedule the past few weeks so within the next week or 2, I should finally get her out for a spin.
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Surprise! I have a problem...:mad: So I went to clean out the hole for the oil tube bolt I mentioned to get the thing to tighten up and fix my little leak. When I pulled it out, it had metal shavings threaded around it. Somehow it dethreaded the inside of the hole. Now the damn thing won't come out at all. Won't tighten, won't loosen. This is becoming a freakin' greek tragedy. Not sure what to do with it at this point. I've never had to drill out a bolt hole before, and wonder if I should just pick up a used oil pan. Not overly-enthused about having to pull all this crap apart again.
On a side note, I have a charger on my battery, I don't think I'll have to buy a new one. In the meantime, I still wanted to try to get the engine going so I hooked the battery cables straight to the battery on my other car, a 2011 Chevy Cruze. Turn the key and a machine gun of clicks from the starter, no crank. Could it be the smaller battery doesn't pump enough juice? Or is my starter shot now too? Frustration abounds. |
OK, this morning I packed my balls up and went over to ACE hardware. I picked a new, longer bolt with some washers and a spacer. The original bolt has a little bit at the tip with no threads so I figured if the bolt hole is threaded the whole way, a longer bolt may catch and tighten up, and wouldn't you know, success. It tightened down, topped up the oil, no leak.
Battery was all charged up this morning, so I popped it in, turned the key, success. Nice engine rocking going on now, no vibration. However, there's a but coming... BUT, there is now quite a bit of smoke coming from the exhaust tips as well as the exhaust under the car. It is white. Here is a video: <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_opscLIJe9I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> There's also some rattling that I think may be the alternator belt. I really hope this isn't a head gasket. There was always some smoke from the exhaust manifold toward the front since the P/S fluid leaks onto it and it burns off. I plan on handling that when I switch out the rack, but the whole exhaust and coming out the tips now...It's just one thing after the other with this thing. Thoughts would be appreciated. |
I would run it and see if the "smoke" will clear up. Does not look bad to me. As far as the noise. Could be the fan clutch bearings. Is the fan loose side to side? I have had to replace one before.
If it were a head seal...you will know it. My experience has been when its nice and hot the compression is transfered into the waterjacket and then the show starts. Just check to see if you get any water in the oil. I DON'T think you have a problem. Did you replace the water pump and timing belt? Was the WP bearing good? Try to isolate the sound. |
Just ran it for a little while, noise definitely coming from alternator belt. It feels tight enough, but whatever it is I'm not showing any juice on the dash anymore and after 4-5 starts, the batt crapped out again so it's on the charger. Could it be too tight? It has a decent amount of give when pushed.
Smoke continued steadily. Aside from the tail pipe, it's mainly coming from around the cat, clogged up maybe? I just want to drive the damn thing! |
Here's some videos of the alternator noise, I think I may need a new one. I get juice showing on the dash sporadically so it may be still be charging and just not registering correctly. In the 1st one, you can hear a little squeak when I turn it manually, and also see it doesn't spin straight, it has has a little wobble.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lEIaupkr9Sc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/r9EXaM-GxtU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> I was also poking around the engine with a stethoscope and noticed I can't hear the injector clicks on cylinders 2 & 3. I checked each connector with a noid light not too long ago and was able to confirm all were getting juice so it may be the injectors. I am going to get the noid lights and check them again, and I'm borrowing a multimeter so I can check the connections and the injectors themselves. Once I resolve this, it'll hopefully take care of the rough running once and for all. |
Use your stethoscope on the alternator case ...if its a bad bearing it will be Obvious.
I think you will be glad you did the MM anyway. Its the BIGGEST change to my car from any repair / improvement I have done. I know mine feels like a new car now on the road vibration wise. Once your firing on all 8 it will be great. You can pull the plugs wires off those 2 cylinders as its running and see if if effects the running. If its not firing I would think it would not change the idle. |
Thanks Dean. I just grabbed the noid lights from Autozone and sure enough, the lights flash on the harness connector. I'll be picking up the multimeter later on so I can check the injectors. I think worst case is I'll need 2 new injectors. I gotta pack up for the day, so I can check the alternator case tomorrow. If the injectors are bad, what kind do you recommend? Something I could pick up tomorrow if I had to, or would I have to order?
Also, idle shows no change when the plugs are pulled from these injectors. I wouldn't think they're clogged since they were cleaned out recently. Have a good one, will report back tomorrow. |
Just a few updates from this morning's troubleshooting. There's definitely an issue with the 2 injectors. I can only find info for LH-Jet in the manual and I'm not totally sure there's a difference since mine is L-jet, but the resistance specs are between 15-17.5 ohms. My 'good ones' averaged in the low 5's, and the 2 in question around 4. I have no idea what this means, so I pulled the rail, switched 2 & 3 with 1 & 4, reassembled, and sure enough I couldn't hear clicks on 1 & 4 now, 2 & 3 were clicking away. Could this just mean they're both clogged up? Again, witchunters did them all not too long ago. Not sure if I should try and clean them or just get 2 new injectors. It's the passenger side rail, so it's a PITA to take off and put back on a million times.
On the rattling front, the alternator is OK, it is in fact the P/S pump. Belt may be loose, but the whole P/S system is up next on the docket once the engine is firing on all 8. |
Keep up the good work there bro, makes for good reading!
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Manny, I think you need to replace those two injectors. I don't think a clog would prevent the little solenoid in the injector from firing. It appears to me that they they have failed electrically. I had a failed injector and its electrical resistance measured within range.
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Rookie with a new project
Thanks Niles, I'm going to order new injectors today. I'm not 100% certain of all the inner workings of the injectors, but is it possible they were just shooting continuously instead of pulsing which is why I couldn't hear the clicks? I pulled the #2 plug yesterday to check the spark, and the tip was darkened and moist. Would that cause the cylinder to not fire? It might explain the uber-potent exhaust smell that's been coming out.
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It does sound like they failed open. All of my injectors are very audible with a screwdriver. In fact you can feel them clicking. If you are not hearing clicking, I am confident they have failed.
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You can always switch them around and see if that makes a difference. That will prove Injector or the Computer itself. I had the same issue with my Mitsu Eclipse. Even after I sent them to Witchhunter and they test fine, but once warm they started to fail.
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It's definitely the injectors, I swapped them around the other day and found the good ones fired where the bad ones were and vice versa. New injectors are on the way so once they go in, hopefully, we'll be in good shape. Will report back when they are.
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New injectors came in tonight and I couldn't resist, in they went and I have 8 firing cylinders! They came with the hoses crimped on already, but they were too short so I cut the crimps off, cut some new hoses and they went in as easily as the passenger side rail could. It was getting late by the time I had things buttoned up so I couldn't run it too long, but I fired her up and it still didn't quite sound right. Went in with the stethoscope and couldn't hear clicks on #1. Lo and behold, I didn't plug the connector in! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...eys/spankA.gif Plugged the sucker in, and for the 1st time in a long time, a smooth purr, clicking on all 8. Got in and gave a couple revs, no putter, all roar! I'll get a video tomorrow. Now I just gotta wait on the next nice day to toss the tires on and take a spin.
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YAY!!!! Congrats
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