Engine removal question

[5l32v4c]

Hello,

New to this 928 forum having just recently acquired one (1985 's' 32v) after many years of drooling. I had the car inspected before I bought it and the garage determined that it had a blown cylinder head gasket on the left bank.

I have decided to pull the engine and take care of a few other items at the same time as doing both head gaskets. My car has an auto trans and I have a question about one of the steps prior to removing the engine.

I have removed the flywheel cover and starter, removed the 6 bolts that attach the triangular drive plate and have slid that assembly back on the drive-shaft towards the rear of the car.

The drive shaft protrudes into the bell-housing so I imagine this will get in the way when I try to pull the engine out. For the bell-housing to clear the shaft I would need to pull the whole engine forward before lifting it up and I'm not sure there is enough room even though the radiator is already out. Is there something else I need to do beforehand?

[MPDano]

Welcome to the board. I R&R'd my 16V and it was one of the hardest jobs I have ever done. There is barely enough room on the sides to do any maneuvering. I did have plenty of room up front after removing the radiator, etc. Not sure about the 32V's though.

[Pete R]

I'm pretty sure you can lift the head up until it hits the towers, cut the studs between the head and block, then reinstall with the later head bolts, no need for engine removal

[Mrmerlin]

Hopefully you marked the flex plate to flywheel location.

remove the 2 bolts attaching the trans mounts to the crossmember,
slide the trans back after removing the bell hosing bolts.
dont forget to remove the throttle quadrant from the intake.

PETE I would not recommend cutting the studs to remove the head,
it can be a short way to require a new block..
WHY?
because the studs are glued in and if you dont get them hot enough to remove, they can become permanent.
Seen it a few times, .
The only time to mess with the studs are if the they have corrosion damage,
or your swapping in new HI performance studs like ARP

[5l32v4c]

Thanks Mrmerlin.

Yes, I marked everything before separation. I'll try what you suggested and let you know how it goes.

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

Hopefully you marked the flex plate to flywheel location.

remove the 2 bolts attaching the trans mounts to the crossmember,
slide the trans back after removing the bell hosing bolts.
dont forget to remove the throttle quadrant from the intake.

PETE I would not recommend cutting the studs to remove the head,
it can be a short way to require a new block..
WHY?
because the studs are glued in and if you dont get them hot enough to remove, they can become permanent.
Seen it a few times, .
The only time to mess with the studs are if the they have corrosion damage,
or your swapping in new HI performance studs like ARP

I've never had trouble removing any 928 studs but I'll take you word for it

[stepson]

Stan is 100% correct. It is imperative to slide the transmission back. It only has to go back about 2 inches to make room to clear the tunnel, but it makes life so much easier.

[Dozman]

Make sure you remove the main engine harness prior to lifting engine. Seems an engine re re builder on bannlist didn't know this. He ended up lifting the engine up by the harness connected, and lifted the car off the ground by the harness. have to learn by newbie experiences, or common sense.

[Kiln_Red]

You might find that it is easier to remove the bellbousing from the block. Four 19mm bolts secure it to the block. For the two at the top, you will probably find it is easiest to use a flex head ratcheting wrench. Moving the transaxle back will make life easier too, though I never have for an engine pull. Separating the bellhousing from the block can try your patience. A pry bar and a rubber mallet make good company.

[5l32v4c]

Thanks all your your suggestions. I'm not familiar with the back end yet but I am interested to see how the trans-axle slides back after undoing just 2 bolts. I looked at removing the bell-housing but it seemed like the oil pan would need to come off first. I'll get under there again when I can and take another look.

[Danglerb]

Price of a set of the EZ-Red double box end extended spline flex head ratcheting wrenches is well spent for those two bellhousing bolts.

5 Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Ratcheting Wrench Set by EZ Red (part#EZRRM6)

[Kiln_Red]

Originally Posted by 5l32v4c

Thanks all your your suggestions. I'm not familiar with the back end yet but I am interested to see how the trans-axle slides back after undoing just 2 bolts. I looked at removing the bell-housing but it seemed like the oil pan would need to come off first. I'll get under there again when I can and take another look.

The oil pan can remain.

[stepson]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Price of a set of the EZ-Red double box end extended spline flex head ratcheting wrenches is well spent for those two bellhousing bolts.

5 Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Ratcheting Wrench Set by EZ Red (part#EZRRM6)

Oooh nice! But pricey. I usually just loop a second wrench with the one on the bolt head to get enough ooomph to break those darn bellhousing bolts loose or to tighten them.

[Danglerb]

AAP has wacky prices, you have to research coupons, I used a $50 off and it was the lowest shipped price.

Length is nice, but its the flex head with extended socket type head that makes the difference. It works like a very low clearance ratchet. Specifically on those bellhousing bolts its like the perfect tool.

[Mrmerlin]

to slide the transaxle back,
you need to remove 2 bolts at the rear crossmember,
and the 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the block.
the bellhousing will slide back as part of this assembly.

This also assumes that you have removed the exhaust system from the manifolds back.

NOTE disconnect the O2 sensor at the CE panel and push it through the chassis before dropping the exhaust.

NOTE put a 2X4 piece of wood under the front small crossmember to hold the TT from dropping

[Kiln_Red]

You have a lot of options for removing the engine. Unless you find it easier to pull the engine with the bellhousing, I would follow Stan's suggestion of moving the transmission back for convenience. You could also lift the car over the engine as well by separating the front suspension and cross member from the unibody via the strut towers.

To pull the engine with the bellhousing, you need to separate the torque tube from the bellhousing.

[Mrmerlin]

Please follow the instructions i have posted.

NOTE the engine wont come out with the bellhousing installed damage to the fuel cooler will result,
also the dirveshaft will possibly cause other fitment issues

[Kiln_Red]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

Please follow the instructions i have posted.

NOTE the engine wont come out with the bellhousing installed damage to the fuel cooler will result,
also the dirveshaft will possibly cause other fitment issues

Perhaps there is some variation between MYs on this but, with the radiator removed, there is *plenty* of clearance for the fuel cooler on any 928 I've done an engine pull/drop on. It is especially easy to clear the firewall parts with a load leveler and a helper.

Following Stan's instructions will certainly be the most straight forward. Many people struggle with the bellhousing. And if you are to ruin the hardware such that you can not separate the bellhousing from the block with the engine in the car, there are options. Be sure that you are looking in the correct area for the four bolts that secure the bellhousing. I began to wonder if you understand their location when you remarked that it appeared the oil pan was in the way. Most importantly.. Good luck!

[Fredfox]

I have personally done this r&r
Merlin has it correct, push the trans back after unbolting the bell housing,
leave the flex plate on the spline, simply slide it back.
The hardest part is fishing the harness through the firewall.
I swore if I ever did it again, I would leave the harness in place, disconnect it from the injectors and put it on the windshield, but for a first timer, just follow the procedure in the manual available online for free.
It took me about 6 hours in my garage working on a floor with car on stands.
The engine lifts straight up, no need to pull it forward more than a couple inches.
It is actually pretty easy.

[Fredfox]

I remember it well