993 Tiptronic Filter / Gasket / ATF change with Pictures

[bb3188]

Hi Guys

My 95 TIp 993 was running a bit sluggish, rough change in gears, slow to select etc,etc . I decided to change the ATF oil , Filter and drain plug gasket
I thought I'd post some pics up for anyone that may be interested


A couple of thing that is needed are
1- Jackstands X4
2-ATF fluid (about 10 liters/quarts) - (Dextron IID is the original spec) ur choice ;-)
3- Filter- porsche part 943-307-011-02-M30
4- Filter O'ring - porsche part 94330704100
5- Drain Pan Gasket-porsche part 943-321-123-06-M260
6- A bit of garden hose-
7- Manual pump Sprayer(the ones used for weeding etc, etc)
8- Torx Bit T27
Hex bit- 6mm

After the car is on jackstands, remove the engine splash guard and transmission splash guard. Removal of the trans/axle splash guard will give you greater access to remove the bolts holding the Drain pan

Remove the existing fluid
(1)Unplug the drain pan plug( need a hex bit 6mm) and let the oil out onto your oil container



(2) Unplug the banjo from the ATF measure to the the side of the drain pan


Remove the drain Pan (clean the drain Pan/ magnets)

To remove the drain pan, undo the 6 bolts on the located around the drain pan, the bolt near the atf level guage is highlighted in the above picture, please note that there is still fair amount of old fluid in the drain pan therefore, support the pan when removing the final (6th) bolt
you will find that the removal of the splash guard will give greater access to these 6 bolts
Once the drain pan is removed, clean throughly the gunk built up on the magnets (there are 3 magnets in the base of the drain pan, sorry, i didnt take a pic at this stage as my hands were greased up with slippery old atf fluid

Remove the old Filter and seal (o'ring)
The filter is located above the drain pan (see pic below)

you will need a Torx T27 to remove the 3 very long but thin bolts
With the new filiter in hand, I put a bit of white lubricant on the rubber seal before reinserting the new filter

Ditto with the drain pan gasket(sorry no pics)

Reinstall the drain pan (6 bolts) , pan plug and banjo(with new washers)

Filling up ATF
The AFT fastfill is located here



the ATF fast fill works as a 1 way filling device here is a picture in detail





please note that you dont need to take the whole device out, I was just curious...:-)

With a bit of garden hose attached to the a manual garden sprayer (which I filled with ATF oil) I pumped the ATF fluid , my version of VAG 1924



I filled it up to the max level on the 30 C marker and then started the car, went through the gears
The oil level will drop and needs to be filled up to a little over Max (on the 30C marker)



I realised at this point that I could not do the hot temp test as I didnt have the temp measure tool, so once I get one, with my special fast fill tool at the ready, the test will be done.

as a side note, I took the car for a run and it was much, much smoother, no poor gear selection, well worth the effort!

rgds

Mark

[Raleigh993]

Very nice write-up and pics. A picture is worth 1,000 words. I will bookmark for the to do list.

Thanks,
Chip

[craig001]

Outstanding! This is on my to-do list. Thanks for posting.

[bb3188]

A couple of thing that is needed are
1- Jackstands X4
2-ATF fluid (about 10 liters/quarts) - (Dextron IID is the original spec) ur choice ;-)
3- Filter- porsche part 943-307-011-02-M30
4- Filter O'ring - porsche part 94330704100
5- Drain Pan Gasket-porsche part 943-321-123-06-M260
6- A bit of garden hose-
7- Manual pump Sprayer(the ones used for weeding etc, etc)
8- Torx Bit T27
Hex bit- 6mm

After the car is on jackstands, remove the engine splash guard and transmission splash guard. Removal of the trans/axle splash guard will give you greater access to remove the bolts holding the Drain pan

Remove the existing fluid
(1)Unplug the drain pan plug( need a hex bit 6mm) and let the oil out onto your oil container

(2) Unplug the banjo from the ATF measure to the the side of the drain pan


Remove the drain Pan (clean the drain Pan/ magnets)

To remove the drain pan, undo the 6 bolts on the located around the drain pan, the bolt near the atf level guage is highlighted in the above picture, please note that there is still fair amount of old fluid in the drain pan therefore, support the pan when removing the final (6th) bolt
you will find that the removal of the splash guard will give greater access to these 6 bolts

Once the drain pan is removed, clean throughly the gunk built up on the magnets (there are 3 magnets in the base of the drain pan, sorry, i didnt take a pic at this stage as my hands were greased up with slippery old atf fluid

Remove the old Filter and seal (o'ring)
The filter is located above the drain pan (see pic below)



you will need a Torx T27 to remove the 3 very long but thin bolts
With the new filiter in hand, I put a bit of white lubricant on the rubber seal before reinserting the new filter

Ditto with the drain pan gasket(sorry no pics)

Reinstall the drain pan (6 bolts) , pan plug and banjo(with new washers)

Filling up ATF
The AFT fastfill is located here


the ATF fast fill works as a 1 way filling device here is a picture in detail


I filled it up to the max level on the 30 C marker and then started the car, went through the gears
The oil level will drop and needs to be filled up to a little over Max (on the 30C marker)



If you do overfill (as at running temp), take out excess via banjo
be careful.
Good Luck !

Rgds
Mark

[Justin@Athens]

this is a great write up...very timely, as I am also doing this job. What kind of fluid did you select? Do you plan on servicing the differential as well?

Thanks!

Also, did you use all ten liters? I have only gotten maybe 5 liters out of the sump with the car cold.

[Justin@Athens]

I found a list of approved ATF fluids/oils that meet our transmission manufacturer's approval.

For others who are looking to execute this DIY, this is not a Mercedes gearbox like in the 996. This is a ZF gearbox and you can find the approved lubricant list here: http://www01apps.zf.com/kst464/ZF_InteroeleV2_manager/Work/2012-04-01/TE-ML%2011_en0700.pdf

The very last fluid "ZF LifeGuard5" is what I believe to be the factory fill. It is available pretty reasonably here: Transmission Fluid ZF LifeGuard 5 - Case of 6 x 1L Container

[bb3188]

Originally Posted by Justin@Athens

I found a list of approved ATF fluids/oils that meet our transmission manufacturer's approval.

For others who are looking to execute this DIY, this is not a Mercedes gearbox like in the 996. This is a ZF gearbox and you can find the approved lubricant list here: http://www01apps.zf.com/kst464/ZF_InteroeleV2_manager/Work/2012-04-01/TE-ML%2011_en0700.pdf

The very last fluid "ZF LifeGuard5" is what I believe to be the factory fill. It is available pretty reasonably here: Transmission Fluid ZF LifeGuard 5 - Case of 6 x 1L Container

Thanks mate,
I did the diff oil later on, there is a write up on it somewhere else...
Best of luck :-)

Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk 2

[Elysium]

Hi, thanks for posting this article. Only this week I was intending to get my transmission flushed for the same reasons. It seems to take a bit of time to settle in a gear. Can be quite a chunky change at times..

The question I have is does this procedure remove all the fluid? I was under the impression that with a flush the procedure will take out all the old fluid and all of that fluid that remains in the torque converter. Still learning and would love to complete this procedure myself.

Well done.

[Justin@Athens]

From what I can tell, you are only going to get about half of the fluid out with this method. I started the car for a moment and ran the gearbox through PNR1&2 but of course you can't get into 3&4 without the car moving. I've got about six quarts out now. I think it holds 9-10 quarts, so some will remain in the converter.

Also, my plastic sight tube for checking the fluid level was very dirty both externally and internally. I removed it using the BIGGEST flat head screwdriver I had, and had to clean it with shop solvent to get the filth off the inside. It was so opaque that it was difficult to see the fluid level at all.

I am unsure of whether a system/procedure exists to remove the total capacity--but would be interested in finding out.

[HBP]

Great write up. Having similar issues and wondering if this squared away the problem for you?

[Justin@Athens]

It made the shifts slightly smoother in my car also. However, I think its the DME that is really limiting improvement in shift times. The fact that this is a 4 speed gearbox is one of the major drawbacks of the 993 tiptronic in my opinion. My fluid was most likely original fill, and was removed at around 76k miles. I found only dust like particulate stuck to the magnets in the bottom of the pan--everything looked good and the ATF did not smell burnt at all.

My best advice to you in order to get the correct fill is to measure what comes out and put that much or just a little more back in. I did not measure with the temp gauge as I did not have one available.

[triguy]

I have every thing but the oil to do this job. The question about what oil is always an issue but is there an advantage to a synthetic ATF fluid? Can you use a synthetic fluid or should you stick with a regular ATF fluid? If you use the synthetic will in affect the seals in the transmission.

Thanks Neil

[Justin@Athens]

I would use the ZF Lifeguard5 fluid as referenced above. TE-ML11 is the official document from ZF (the makers of your transmission) and it specifies this as the correct fluid.

The benefit of using a synthetic is life expectancy of the fluid in my opinion-- theoretically it should last longer before needing replacement. Its friction properties should remain more constant throughout its recommended usage interval, vs a conventional ATF which may begin to become less effective and change the engagement point of the clutch packs in the transmission as the fluid is broken down due to heat and moisture. This is just my opinion however.

[ntmatter]

Resurrecting an old thread - I want to make sure I'm on the right track before doing anything epically stupid. I've drained the transmission and got almost 5 quarts out, after letting it sit overnight. Sealed everything back up as above, filled to the 30C Max line, and this took only about 2.5 quarts. Ran the car a bit and worked through PNRD12, fill line lowered but after adding maybe another half quart the level is up to the 80C line. So, I've pulled 5 quarts out, and put maybe 3 in, and it's showing super-full.

Is my error here that I need to be checking the level with the car running? I've been checking it with the car off (as I'm under it) - would this explain the 2-quart discrepancy?

[Justin@Athens]

I'd put another two quarts in and then take it for a drive.

[ntmatter]

Justin, I can't tell if you're serious, sorry. Just the thought of driving it down the road and having ATF shoot up out of the shift lever and through the open sunroof kinda has my pooper set to brick-size.

[Justin@Athens]

My reasoning is always put back in what you take out. The proper way to do this is measure the fluid in the car when the ATF reaches 176 degrees F. Technically you need an a bosch hammer or infrared thermometer from HF or somewhere, but like I said, just put in what you took out and you should be fine. The entire system holds nearly double the capacity you removed, so as long as you didn't have a leak before. I would actually add an additional half quart to what came out originally. I believe there was a TSB from Porsche AG about this very issue. Here: http://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/964-forum/415025d1264393213-checking-tiptronic-atf-levels-tip-fluid-tsb.pdf

This TSB is for the 964, and was released in 1995. I am unaware if the sight gauge was corrected on the 993 or not. .5 quarts overfill fill not damage the system regardless however.

[ntmatter]

With the car running, the high fluid level sucked right out of the sight glass and measured low (as expected), so the lesson is not to panic when filling the transmission and check it with the car running. Matched fluid in with fluid out and everything's just right. Unfortunately, I didn't order the crush gaskets for the banjo bolt, so there's an eensy weensy drip out of it now. Porsche dealer didn't stock them, so I had to order a pair from pelican and in a week I'll do one additional fluid swap. No biggie, but the week delay is annoying.

[mikedsilva]

ok.. I just did my 1990 C2 as well...
I'm glad that everyone cleared up that the car has to be running and up to temp, to check the fluid level...

When I drained the sump, I only got about 3.5 litres...

When i was putting new fluid in, I put about 5.5 litres in.

But turns out I will have to drain again, and re do it all, BECAUSE I FORGOT TO PUT THE MAGNETS BACK IN THE PAN!!!

At least I will be getting more of the old fluid out...

[Q8drill]

I'm trying to change my Targa ATF but i can only find dextron 3 H in the market here, No Dextron2 D, Is it ok to use Dextron3?