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loose nut behind wheel
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993/964 distributor bearings possible solution
So I go to change the caps and rotor for my 3.6L coversion, when I get to the secondary rotor, and put it on and start to give it a twist to make sure the rotor is locked down, and it spins nice and freely! A closer look, and sure enought the belt is broken. A quick search on how to rebuild and a new belt and I'm good to go.
Once I get the distributor apart, I find that both secondary bearings are bad which lead to (or helped) the belt to break. Primary is fine and feels smooth. Of course you cannot just buy the correct bearings. After finding out how much it would cost, I've decided to get a few off the shelf bearings that fit the OD and width. The ID is about .5mm too small. Here is the possible solution: I'm having a machine shop turn down the shaft just below the gear for the belt to match the ID pf the new off the shelf bearing. (should only need to take it down about .25mm) So that is where I am at, just waiting to pick it up and try it out. I will post the results as soon as I get it back together, and hopefully finish a few items on the conversion, with luck Saturday I will know! If not, I will be in the market for a good used Dizzy!
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80 911sc/993 GT-2 body/3.6L motor 71 VW Convert (300 hp 2332 FI turbo) 97 Passat TDI 320K miles and counting |
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Manassas, VA
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Can you elaborate on the bearing number and manufacturer? I have known some bearings in that size range to be for R/C cars or skateboards and they last about 10 minutes under heat and high RPM loading. On the other hand, a good INA or SKF will last the life of the car.
Thanks, Mark
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1991 964 Polar Silver Metallic Turbo Coupe |
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loose nut behind wheel
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The bearing I'm trying to use is a SKF for a VW alternator. My machinist said he cannot grab the shaft good enough to comfortably turn it, so he is building a jig to hold the bearing and will get or make what he needs to machine out the ID of the bearing to fit the shaft. If he can successfully do it, I'll probably give him a bunch more to do, and start selling them!
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Manassas, VA
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Good idea! Let's see turn down the shaft of a $900 distributor or machine the inside of a $10 bearing, hmmmmmm.
I'll buy one just to have it. SKF = good stuff. Mark
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1991 964 Polar Silver Metallic Turbo Coupe |
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loose nut behind wheel
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The only problem is holding the bearing from rotating to be able to machine it, then finding the correct size bit to use on the hardened bearing. So i'll have a descent investment into it, but still my cheapest option unless I find a good used dist., but then it's another crapshoot
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 115
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I ran into the same problem with the bearings when I got the belt replacement . Al fix it by getting the closest size bearing and fabricating a sleeve . Cost of bearings n material $17 dollars and I have put over 10k kilometers on the car since with no issues with distributor Will try to get Al to chime in with specifics .
Cheers Guy Last edited by briefescape; 07-23-2010 at 09:22 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Maple Ridge, BC, Canada
Posts: 799
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I used ball brg NSK 6201-08DDU, but there are SKF/NTN/FAG equivalents.
Basically a double rubber sealed 6201 ball brg. These brgs are the same dimensionally except for the ID wich is 0.5mm dia. larger. Prepare the brgs in advance by wrapping 0.25mm thick shim stock of appropriate x-y dimension around the shaft, and apply a bit of retaining compound to the ID of the brg so that the shim/sleeve is glued to the ID of the brg. You will need a blind brg removal tool to remove the olds brgs. I think the brgs were around $15 ea. good luck, and have fun!
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Al Shkuratoff 86 Carrera, SW chip, Fabspeed, M&K 83SC Platinum - Sold 83SC Slate Grey - Sold |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.
Posts: 16,314
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Quote:
If you can't find the correct bearing, choose one with a larger ID and machine or buy a bushing to make it fit. Do you have the dimensions? try Bearings- SmallParts.com or Boca Bearings :: Miniature Bearings for Hobby and Industry :: Steel and Ceramic Bearings |
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loose nut behind wheel
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bearings are 32mm x 10mm x 12.4mm (roughly)
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80 911sc/993 GT-2 body/3.6L motor 71 VW Convert (300 hp 2332 FI turbo) 97 Passat TDI 320K miles and counting |
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Alps Adventurer
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I take it that is OD, width and ID....in that order.
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80 911sc/993 GT-2 body/3.6L motor 71 VW Convert (300 hp 2332 FI turbo) 97 Passat TDI 320K miles and counting |
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Registered
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1993 964 C2 still makes me smile |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 377
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Any Updates on finding these bearings?
I spoke with the German Bearing Mfg. and they made them specially for Porsche years ago. 12.4mm ID is a son of a *****
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1981 911sc RoW Coupe (forever under 3.6L conversion) 2003 996TT Basalt black |
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loose nut behind wheel
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I had a friend that owns a machine shop custom order a bit, make a holding jig, and machine out a bearing that had the same OD and width, but smaller ID, so far seems to be working good.
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80 911sc/993 GT-2 body/3.6L motor 71 VW Convert (300 hp 2332 FI turbo) 97 Passat TDI 320K miles and counting |
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Alps Adventurer
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The question is, what are these so-called rebuilders of these distributors doing...not installing new bearings as part of an incomplete rebuild or are they modifying a shaft to fit an available bearing?
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loose nut behind wheel
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No they are getting the correct bearings, but charging about $150 each, and there are 3 of them the same size, but that is if they need new bearings, otheriwse they just take it apart clean and lube it, new belt, and off you go.
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80 911sc/993 GT-2 body/3.6L motor 71 VW Convert (300 hp 2332 FI turbo) 97 Passat TDI 320K miles and counting |
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Alps Adventurer
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Quote:
![]() I'll be taking my distributor out in the next few weeks for an overhaul at which time I'll finally get to see what shape the bearings are in and what is left of the grease, if any. Those bearings do not see any load or speed. If I need new bearings, I think I know which ones I will use and modify. |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 377
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Interested in renting or selling the jig? I have come up with 1 other possible alternative that might work.... I have a feeling it isn't or someone would already be doing this. 1. Buy the above mentioned 12.00 mm ID bearing and remove the inner race and replace it with the 12.40 mm Porsche bearing inner race. Is this even possible without destroying the bearings? Thoughts, comments?
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1981 911sc RoW Coupe (forever under 3.6L conversion) 2003 996TT Basalt black |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 377
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Quote:
I believe this would be the correct shielded bearing to machine down .40 mm to work for this dizzy application. SKF - Product data From the diagram there appears to be 4.2mm of inner race material before the actual "ball" of the bearing, give or take tolerances.... Only need to remove .40 mm. I cant image this bearing having a heavy load on it where this material removal could become an issue.
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1981 911sc RoW Coupe (forever under 3.6L conversion) 2003 996TT Basalt black |
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Alps Adventurer
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Until I actually see the bearing, I am still uncertain as to what type of bearing is being used in the OEM Porsche distributor; a ball bearing or an angular contact bearing for example.
Having rebuilt mine, the bearings were fine and as a result I did not pop the seals to confirm their type. I do know that they are loaded by the use of a Belleville (cone) washer which when the clip is installed on the secondary shaft and the rivet that holds the gear on the primary shaft is installed, places a considerable side load on the bearing. I did take note of dimensions of all the distributor parts... Distributor When the time comes and I do need a bearing, I will grind the ID to fit. There is a someone on RL that rebuilds the distributors and has the bearings at big $$$, but he was unwilling to disclose a source. So much for what forums are about which is why I think business has no place on a forum. |
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