I don't know how you can do the tasks under with car just on jack stands, you must still be young dude. :D I admire your determination. I had a tough time with the starter wires. Maybe I am getting old.

As far as the slave cylinder go, I used a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 13mm socket from Craftsman. I put a cheater pipe to get enough leverage. The 13mm nuts were on really tight. If you disconnected the hose from the hard line, that is also ok. but don't forget to bleed the slave when you are done.

I only saw one ground cable from the starter to the chassis. I was wondering too if there is another ground cable somewhere. I plan to add a few more engine to chassis ground cables later.

That is what this board is all about, learn and share :):D:) of course the wife does not entirely share the same opinion as the list of things to be done around the house get longer by the day :eek::D:eek:

I think I will just buy an ATV jack from Sears and drop the engine this afternoon.

Question about two rear engine support covers
 

I got the two cap screws out but the cap seemed to be stuck really tight. Do I just pop the cover off to get to the 19mm hex bolts head? Thanks.

Yeah, that worked well;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297016683.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297016710.jpg

It's out.

The rear engine support 19 mm hex nut is taken out from the bottom on my 1993.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297025723.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297025602.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297025615.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297025628.jpg

[QUOTE=bazar01;5830891] It's out...
QUOTE]

Congratulation. Now the fun begin :D:eek::):eek::D

[QUOTE=bazar01;5830891]It's out.

Congrats!
I will be doing same thing hopefully tomorrow.

BTW, what did you put between engine and atv jack? Also did you not have to support the tranny when down?

It's now 77 degree here in California and the air is really dry. I see some static on my car every time I touch my car. Wondering how you folks eliminate it. I kinda scared if it sparks the gas fume after I disconnect the fuel lines in the engine compartment.

BW :)

[QUOTE=Bubbling well;5830960] Thanks guys.

I also found out I did not have to remove the starter wires. Just the ground cable needs to be taken out.

[QUOTE=bazar01;5831089] Yeah, I was just working on it and have figured it out from your pix. Thanks for posting the great pix. Did you not have a problem with the passenger side CV catching the starter? Oops, yours are out. How you guys clear it, folks?

BW:)

[QUOTE=Bubbling well;5831110] Can you let it hang downward, drop the engine/tranny slowly, swing it towards the front and zip tie it, then pull the engine/tranny out the back? I know it so easy to say until you try it. :)

I did it, too!
 

It all went fine! Thanks to all of you to make it possible.

So I got the accelerator cable disconnected at pedal cluster, and CV on the passenger side was maneuverable during the drop to clear the starter/solenoid. There were many more lines and hoses involved on 964 than 914 but I found it was easier to drop. I had to lower the front in order to raise the rear at the final. That way I could gain about 1.5". I almost forgot to disconnection the air flow sensor plug. Can't wait to separate the engine from tranny!

BW :)

Down to the floor.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297122557.jpg
Then lowered the front to gain about 2" in the rear.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297121976.jpg
Finally out of the car :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297122165.jpg

Yaaaay! Congrats.

I got the tranny separated from the engine and still debating what to do with the flywheel. The clutch disc is worn but not all the way to the rivets so the FW has no score marks. I don't see any separation on the LUK dual mass. Can I reuse the flywheel by just cleaning it up. I just plan on getting a clutch and pressure plate kit. As far as the fork shaft, I am getting the updated one with bronze bushings instead of the needle bearings.

Hey bazar, Thanks for the message!

As for the FW, they say 75K miles is the point to consider a new one. Mine is 60K so I will change it regardless of the condition. Maybe you can post the pix?

I have 1993 with 100k miles. I will shoot spme pics tonight. The DMF flywheel alone is $900. :eek:

I will also fix the power steering o-ring and seal oil leak on the passenger side as well as the breather and oil pressure sender oil leak. Oh maybe the oil bridge for the chain tensioner feed as well as they are wet to the touch. I just ordered my engine yoke today and hopefully get it before this weekend.

Have fun! Our 964 will be good for another 100k miles I hope.

Engine is back in
 

I have been driving the car for 3 weeks now. My garage floor has been oil free too. The major leaker was the oil pressure sensor o-ring, it was so hard and brittle it just broke into half when I removed it. I thought I had one return tube that was leaking so evidently the oil was coming from the OP sensor and just flowing down the bottom of case near the left heat exchanger. The right heat exchanger was also wet with oil and smokes the inside of the car and this was due to the power steering camshaft drive seal and o-ring.

I also tightened all the intake manifold clamps since they were all loose and might have been causing the unsteady idle. The idle now is very steady.
The breather hose was also loose as seen from the traces of oil on the base, so I just cut a short piece off the end and also tightened the hose clamp.

The accelerator cable was so easy to take off and put back on from the engine side.

So far so good.

Hey bazar,

Good to hear your car's been running very well. I have replaced the Oil pressure sensor o-ring and breather gasket as well. Hope to not have oil leak anywhere this time.

My engine is till out and I've just done the dizzy belt today. It was PITA all the way. Will do firewall sound pad tomorrow and put the engine back in sometime next week.

BW :)

Thanks.

I did my dizzy belt at 85k miles and it was almost gone. Glad I did it.

If you really want it oil leak free for a while, go ahead and replace the power steering drive o-ring and oil seal.
My oil return tubes are all dry, but the o-rings probably are all hardened and will leak soon. I am not worried since you can replace the tubes with engine in the car.

I did not do the sound pad. I can still live with it sagging a little, no biggie. I can do a partial drop and replace that later.

Did you replace your flywheel? If you did, can I have your old one, I would like to experiment with it. Let me know how much.

Good luck !

My dizzy belt looked good as new with about 60k miles on it. I also changed the o-ring and seal on the power steering since it was leaking a little. I don't have access to the oil tube now since it's still on the ATV jack.

Yes, I have replaced the flywheel. But it still looked good. The clutch plates and pressure plate were gone. I am not sure how well it will work without resurfacing but still has good spring tension and hydraulic dampener(moves less than 1.5cm) and smooth contact surface. How about $50 +shipping?

Thanks,

BW :)

Hey guys!

I am back here because my motor is finally back in the car! Took me 5 weeks total. I think the hardest part was dizzy belt change this time. It's now past 12am so I'm gonna have to wait till tomorrow to drive so just added Brad Penn and started the motor. Oh my, I missed the sound and smell! It is now quieter after valve adjustment. The clutch doesn't squeak anymore and is very smooth all the way! Shifting got a lot smoother, too. The reverse lights work with a new switch. So far no funny noise or leakage I can detect. So far so good!

Thanks for the help for the past few weeks!

BW :)