964 Oil leaks & fixes thread.

[perelet]

RS engine mounts

Kit content and part #'s



Besides mounts everything else - just fasteners, I'm sure one can find bolts and nuts at near by store:









All together:



New and old:

[rbogh901]

$79 for everything?

I tell you what, I don't miss my old saggy baggy stock motor mounts. I went Wevo a long time ago. Installing them was about my speed for wrenching too. Did you reinforce/weld your cross bar already?

[perelet]

Rob, that bill is for supplemental bolts & nuts - as I said you probably can source them else where.

Mounts p/n 964-375-043-81 they are about $170 per piece.

Oleg.

[JasonAndreas]

Originally Posted by perelet

Cam trouble

Here's how my 4-6 cam looked like when I removed it:



My understanding is that around year 2000 somebody realized that zink in oil destroys catalytic convertors. So they mandated to oil companies to remove zink from oils.

Well after that date oils started to destroy cams on engines with rocker followers

I think outcome - use oil additive.

Do you still have the damaged camshaft? Do you know any tribologists? Would you be opposed to sending it to one? I know they won't give you a diagnosis from a single photo but there doesn't appear to be any scuffing to go along with the pitting?

[perelet]

Originally Posted by JasonAndreas

Do you still have the damaged camshaft? Do you know any tribologists? Would you be opposed to sending it to one? ....

Mine is not worst example, here's rennlist thread with more cam horror stories/pics:

964 cam horror - Rennlist Discussion Forums

I do not have problems letting experts to look at mine.
Oleg.

[RedCoupe]

Originally Posted by JasonAndreas

Do you still have the damaged camshaft? Do you know any tribologists? Would you be opposed to sending it to one? I know they won't give you a diagnosis from a single photo but there doesn't appear to be any scuffing to go along with the pitting?

I've seen this type of camshaft spalling/pitting in several different engines and have been told by engine design engineers that this is typical failure of the hardened surfaces. I tore a 2004 Jeep engine apart that had this pattern on several lobes but had a couple that were almost completely flat and totally worn through the hardened material on both the cam and the followers. Two lifters had worn so much they had holes in the bottom. There was no sign of scuffing on that cam either. Once the hardened material was completely gone, everything looked nice and smooth - almost polished.

[perelet]

Aluminum lower valve covers

Factory aluminum valve covers - 964-105-116-02.



At time of writing there's person on ebay selling brand new sets. Look to me as factory castings:

[Cobalt]

^^^^^

From what I have been able to figure out the magnesium valve covers were used up until 1990 or mid year 91 and they switched over to aluminum at some point in 1991. My 90 C4 had magnesium covers and my 93 has aluminum. Most of the 964's I have seen have aluminum but they are mostly 92 and newer.

It would appear they are factory and used the same tooling as the magnesium parts. The shrinkage of aluminum and magnesium are nearly identical. Although the finish grinding on the aluminum is not the best. Look at the openings for the spark plugs on the aluminum pieces there is far too much flashing for my taste.

[perelet]

Temperatures

Here are some Temperature measurements of well warmed up engine:

before cat:


cat:


muffler:


muffler2:


oil tank:



oil filter:

[tominizer]

I absolutely love this stuff. Great thread.

I have the stones to jump into something like this but I wish I had the knowledge. I believe there's a lot of little details (although I may be wrong) that a rookie isn't seeing here. The "stuff" that separates a so-so 911 guy from a really good 911 wrencher, never mind the DIY-er home "I'm no mechanic" guy like myself.

I don't even have a 964 ..... yet.... but I'm currently working on that. Maybe by the end of Sept there could be one at my house. The one I'm looking at needs the motor pulled for sure in the next few years. I wish I had a "guy" like "Perelet" as my neighbour to help guide me. I want to do it all myself but having those eyes that actually know what to do for the first go around for me would be god sent.

[rbogh901]

Hello Oleg, very nice. I hope it has turned out well for you. I'm sure it has.


Sorry to ask but:

1.I see the photos where you were considering a sealing ring at the cylinders, please confirm what you used. Is it the late 964 rings machined in?

2.How do you like the LWFW set up? Was there rust on your input shaft? Apparently the correct grease is important or there is trouble with rust compromising clutch release down the road and some clutch replacements have missed this. Please advise regarding appropriate greasing considerations to avoid this.

Best Regards,

Carl

[rbogh901]

[perelet]

Originally Posted by rbogh901

1.I see the photos where you were considering a sealing ring at the cylinders, please confirm what you used. Is it the late 964 rings machined in?

Carl, I machined 0.02mm off cyl heads to make mirror finish. Factory allowance is 2 times by 0.1mm. That's the way to do it when your cyls/pistons are in good shape (I have 75K miles on mines).

Machining opening for 993/964 ring in the head is IMHO very bad idea (see my post I measured ring). I've heard some shops do that.

1st there's almost not enough clearance to fit ring - it will end up jammed between head and cyl.

2nd and no less important when time comes to replace cyls/pistons you'll need to get 6 cyl heads at top of that. New cyls/pistons require surfacing of the head and your head will have deep groove for ring right there

If you go back I summarized it here:


post8657740

Originally Posted by rbogh901

2.How do you like the LWFW set up?

I do not day-drive car. LFW feels more harsh compared to DMF. But them DMF had springs and all gears. DMF is actually piece of art mechanically, here's good reading:

http://www.understeer.com/pdf/dualmass.pdf

I live in rural hilly area, my private road goes up hill about 20deg up from garage and the about same down - I have no problem stalling etc. 1st I thought about reprogramming my chip (I did that awhile ago for bmw's) but never got around.

Originally Posted by rbogh901

Was there rust on your input shaft? Apparently the correct grease is important or there is trouble with rust compromising clutch release down the road and some clutch replacements have missed this. Please advise regarding appropriate greasing considerations to avoid this.

No noticeable rust on input shaft, I used spline grease on splines.

Oleg.

[rbogh901]

Originally Posted by perelet

Carl, I machined 0.02mm off cyl heads to make mirror finish. Factory allowance is 2 times by 0.1mm. That's the way to do it ...

Good enough then. Thanks. Reviewing your post makes it clear now.

[perelet]

From emails, here are some illustrations on cam timing described here:

post8656019


process is described in factory manual. It is way easier to do both cams at same time. Otherwise you'll have to switch cylinder banks several times.




I used 2 Z blocks, 2 tensioners (autozone brake tool - see posts above):



Dial gauge needs to to be on valve spring seat:



I had to buy dial gauge extensions to extend shaft to reach spring seat from
here - 22 Pc Indicator Point Sets - Dial Indicators - Measuring - Products

[mikedsilva]

Perelet, is your engine back together yet and running? would like to know how leaky it is or isn't now?

[BertramPP]

Wonderful, Oleg! Please keep it up. Do you do this work for others or is this just a hobby of yours. What was your background? Were you a Porsche mechanic in Europe or here in the USA? Thank you in advance for any answers.

John

[rbogh901]

He's a wizard, and generous with his project documentations, unfortunately he hasn't been on for a while.

[perelet]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

Perelet, is your engine back together yet and running? would like to know how leaky it is or isn't now?

Yes engine is back in the car as of last update to this thread, dry do far. I guess I have to give it another few years before seals will wear out and start to leak again

Originally Posted by BertramPP

Wonderful, Oleg! *Please keep it up. *Do you do this work for others or is this just a hobby of yours. *What was your background? *Were you a Porsche mechanic in Europe or here in the USA? *Thank you in advance for any answers.

John

John, I'm embedded software/firmware engineer. Weekdays I spend working on saving power for miniature graphics processors that you probably have in your cell phone.

https://www.linkedin.com/in/olegperelet

But most of people know me because my weekend hobbies fixing cars I was doing this for few decades.

Originally Posted by rbogh901

He's a wizard, and generous with his project documentations, unfortunately he hasn't been on for a while.

Still around, my car keeps me happy

Sent from my iPad

[speedbagger]

not sure if its a technical issue on my side...but i can't see the pic's anymore? links broken?