![]() |
|
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 9
|
![]()
I'm looking at purchasing a 93, 964. The PO has stated that the RMS is leaking and has been for a few of years, about a qt. an month.
Q. Could the seal leak like this for several years and not get any worse? If so, is it possible that it won't get any worse in the future? The car is going in for a PPI the beginning of next week to confirm the leak is the RMS. Just thought I'd get some feed back. Thanks in advance. LiveWire53 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
My 993 c4s had a rms weeping when I bought it. I brought it home and changed it. Cheap repair if you have the time. No specialty tools required.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 9
|
It's my understanding that in order to replace the rms on a 964 , the engine has to be split, in which case, my might as well rebuild the engine.
That is what a mechanic told me. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Thats kind of a crappy design. Sorry.
|
||
![]() |
|
Now in 993 land ...
|
Absolutely conceivable that a leak stays at the same level. That's a pretty big leak, so I can see that it doesn't get worse at some point.
The 964 case should be the same as the the 993. The seal is easily removed and re-installed. I'd recommend an installation tool, which can be borrowed, but a piece of PCV pipe and a rubber mallet do as well. The issue is the location of the seal. To get to it the flywheel has to come off, which means splitting trans and engine. Is that what the mechanic meant? 99% of the people drop engine and trans. Some also remove just the transmission - which I find daunting unless you have a lift. Get the shop to quote the RMS repair and take it off the asking price. Then drop the engine yourself and install a seal that's less than $20. It will be only your labor! ![]() G |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
I opted to drop just the transmission. I used tall jackstands and a atv lift (craftsman $119, later sold on CL for $75) it is harder to do without a lift but definitely possible. I used the backside of the old seal to tap the new one in place.
|
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
|
Quote:
__________________
1993 964 C2 still makes me smile Retired and work as needed as a pain in the **s. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: North Vancouver bc
Posts: 5,293
|
you sure it's not the nose bearing seal?
that will cost you 10 grand to fix, prob 15, with the "while you're in there." there is a 1000 dollar patchwork repair, which may or may not work. prob 60-70 % success rate. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Naperville, Il
Posts: 496
|
Pulling the engine and trans out should not necessarily suggest that you need to rebuild the motor. With the power train on the ground, you should take the time to determine what oil leaks exist and then take the time to fix those leaks before putting the motor back into the car. All the bad actors mentioned in messages above mine, are easier to fix with the motor out of the car.
Other items that are much easier to do with the motor out are replacement of the ignition wires, and replacement of any degraded rubber fittings. To do the RMS, you need to pull the clutch and flywheel, so this is a good time to inspect those items and replace any that are nearing retirement.
__________________
Ernie 98 993 C2S - Arena Red/Beige 76 914/6 3.2 Conversion - Estorill Blue/Coral Red |
||
![]() |
|