WTB 930 Rear Trailing Arm

sirdaft1 · 08-21-2021, 06:18 PM

Looking for a passenger side rear trailing arm for a 930.

Part #’s: 93033151205 or 93033151206 (revised)

PM if you might have one. Thanks!

DaytonaCoupe66 · 08-22-2021, 03:49 AM

Wishing you the best of luck finding a good used unit. I recently needed a left side replacement and a google search revealed a number of P car dealers who offer NOS either cheaper or on par with a used unit...some included the bearings. Something to consider if a decent used piece doesn't present itself.

sirdaft1 · 08-22-2021, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaytonaCoupe66

Wishing you the best of luck finding a good used unit. I recently needed a left side replacement and a google search revealed a number of P car dealers who offer NOS either cheaper or on par with a used unit...some included the bearings. Something to consider if a decent used piece doesn't present itself.

Thank you. The rear lower suspension mounting bolt sheared off at the track and my shop is telling me it’s next to impossible to extract what remains

Rawknees'Turbo · 08-22-2021, 10:56 PM

If what remains of the stud can't be removed, then it could be carefully drilled out, and if the thread boss is damaged by that, then an insert could be used. No way does something like that warrant replacing the arm.

75 911s · 75 911s's Garage

Yeah, totally fixable and about 100 times cheaper than a 930 trailing arm which seem to be about 2k a pop.

DaytonaCoupe66 · 08-23-2021, 03:34 AM

Agree with the suggestions on getting it repaired. That's a routine fix for a machinist. It's a bit of a chore to remove the arm but nothing magical. Mine was broken at the toe eccentic and welding repairs on aluminum suspension parts is not a best practice.

.

sirdaft1 · 08-23-2021, 04:03 AM

Thank you all for the replies. I’m going to try my hardest to have the stud drilled out and removed. Goodness, new trailing arms are $$$$$!

And would anyone know which bolt is used? I’m waiting for a response but I believe John Simone (builder) used a different bolt solution for this application being that my car was built as a race car.

sirdaft1 · 08-23-2021, 04:13 AM

Photo of bolt pulled from the drivers side...

75 911s · 75 911s's Garage

what caused the failure?

sirdaft1 · 08-23-2021, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75 911s

what caused the failure?

Start around the 8:40 mark (failure in the left hander named “Million Dollar Corner”... fortunately didn’t make a contribution that day!)

https://rumble.com/vl7hfd-porsche-911-gt2-evorsr-tribute-autobahn-country-club-laps-inc-add-night.html

sirdaft1 · 12:47 PM

Just received a quote for a USED trailing arm for a 930... $2,600 + shipping! Just about spit out my drink.

Needless to say, we’ll be doing everything we can to remove the broken stud.

Also had a conversation with John Simone and ERP. Apparently this 930 ERP bolt design was discontinued 15+ years ago. They’ve since switched back to a standard bolt solution vs this semi-complicated design which is prone to failure.

Edit: it would be worthwhile to confirm your 930 isn’t running this same aftermarket ERP bolt. If so, good time to proactively replace with a standard bolt.

Rawknees'Turbo · 01:17 PM

It looks like there is plenty of room to do the repair while leaving the arm installed.

If it were me, before drilling it out outright, I would attempt to use an "Easy Out" (largest size that would be reasonable) and drill the appropriately sized pilot hole using a left hand drill bit. The counter clockwise cutting motion of a bit like that tends to loosen the broken part, along with the heat generated, so that an Easy Out works with little effort. Also, use lots of a quality penetrating oil, such as Kroil.