Price Check on 1974 911

[mvanbens]

Wondering what a reasonable price would be for this 1974 911. It has the 2.7L and has been reasonably maintained over the years. It has a rust free body but does have some rust under the rubber trim on the top surface of the front bumber. I was told that this is common because the metal backing for this black rubber piece of trim was not treated with a rust preventive coating. I believe it has roughly 60k original miles. It's well documented including the original purchase details from Brumos. This is the original color and has never been hit. Door dings, paint scuffs, and the front air dam were cleaned-up a few years back with a really really good paint match. The interior is completley oringinal. The drivers seat needs new vinyl. The car does have factory A/C. Thanks.

-Matt

[calling911]

If there is no more rust under the car and the mileage is correct.. $14k? tops? Depends if that paint job was done right.. like as in everything removed...

Oops.. I see its original paint.. yeah id say $14k.. it just ain't a 73 1/2 or older.

[GothingNC]

Has the motor been worked on to address the head stud pulling issues?

The color looks familiar

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=288702

Check out this thread

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=296890

[calling911]

Originally posted by GothingNC
Has the motor been worked on to address the head stud pulling issues?

The color looks familiar

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=288702

Check out this thread

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=296890

I would buy this car in a new york second for $9500.. tensioners or not. (well with a PPI)..

[mvanbens]

GothingNC,
No, as far as I know the engine has not had anything done to it to address the head stud pulling issues?

calling911,
Wow, that is the same color. I never did see another 911 in this color.

-Matt

[racer]

Looks like a "non s" so it would only have 150ish hp vs the 167ish of the "s". I can't remember what other performance differences there were in '74, ie 4spd vs 5sp, interior trim bits.. brakes? All of these would impact resale value.

74's were the lightest of the impact bumper cars and they came with the 11 blade cooling fan vs the 5 blade of later ones. 74's also didn't have thermal reactors so head studs didn't fail quite as often as later ones

[GothingNC]

I think the 74 year had a desirable gear ratio.

[Sunroof]

The 1974 engine did not have the thermal reactors if I recall and therefore not plagued with the head stud issues as the newer models. The thermal reactors were Porsche's way of dealing with omission issues back then and the extra heat loosened the head and the engines leaked and were bad news! A properly rebuilt 2.4 will give years of service and dependability. I owned a dark brown 1974 911 (base model) and traded it for a 944 many years ago. I heard the 911 wound up with one of Seinfelds TV crew in New York several years ago. The color of your car was my favorite "crayola" and is an eye opener, coming off the earlier 1970's lime green, chifon yellow, electric blue and orange, but some folks would find that appealing. For the knowlegeable Porsche person, the 2.7 does not enjoy a great reputation who know how troubled that engine was. I would advertise in the local journals and try to get 12K for it and emphasize the miles.

Good luck
Bob
73.5T

[mvanbens]

Looking for an updated evaluation from the group.

The owner had second thoughts about selling this car at the time I was oringinally asking back in 2006.

It may now really be coming up for sale.

I can say with great confidence that the car has largley sat (outside in DE) since 12/2006. Interior shots also attached. Thanks.

-Matt

[Cal44]

Sitting outside.............? These bodies were not gal dipped. I would be very careful. If you don't know where to look this could spell trouble. Proper seat restore could run $600.00, more with foam.

If the seller will leave the car outside think he cares about maintence?

Not just 2.7 pull head studs. SC's are famous for this as well. As others advise a PPI is paramount.
I too am looking to buy a '74 coupe as soon as I clear up a space occupied by a 356.

[ghost1001]

I just bought a '76 so i know the market fairly well.

I think you are around $10k tops on this car, too many unknowns to go much higher.

Rust and the motor would be the main areas I would focus on, for the obvious reasons that these would cost the most to repair.

You can get a nice, documented '74-'77 for around $10,000 - $12,500.

Post a WTB on the cars for sale board here if you are serious.

'74 is a good year for the reasons listed above. Personally I would want an "S".

Problem with pre '76 is that there was no galvinizing on the car.

Kevin

[SKM]

About 1 1/2 years ago in Phila suburbs an original owner 70k mile yellow/black 1974 911S coupe sold for $15K-ish. Motor had been recently rebuilt at minimal cost and was still leaking oil (unknown from where). No sunroof, factory A/C (not blowing cold), Fuchs wheels, mint interior, nice original paint with lot's of small, shallow dings. All books, bill of sale, window sticker, tooks, jack, spare, etc. Garaged since new. Incomplete service records, however. Would have detailed up beautifully. Still needed a few thousand in repairs (e.g.,dings, A/C, tires, oil leaks, etc.) but overall, about as nice as them come.

My primary concern would be rust and oil leaks. At 60K miles this particular 911S was leaking oil badly thus requiring the rebuild & reseal.

[berettafan]

You don't mean Delaware do you?

[Matt Monson]

What a fabulous color. Based on what I've seen here I say it's a $7500 car. Letting it sit for 2 years made the price go down...

[hcariss]

Hi
If you decide against this car PLEASE let me know, I sent you a PM
Cheers

[bcketner]

my 2 cents but I agree with Matt 7500 tops ,just to many things may need to be addressed after sitting that long

[Hesse James]

Hello,

I think 7.5K would be a steal...
Check the body, it does not matter if galvaniszed or not - after 35+ years all zinc will be gone anyway - but you should check the well known rust areas f.e. under the front lights in the front fender area and the fender where it is attached to the rocker and under the rubber in the door sill.







If the car presents solid there, it was good and well preserved or repaired.
Take off the rear wheels and take a look in driving direction - there is a rust spot where all the dirt is collected. Check for straight panels.



Engine of ''74 is fine - as descibed earlier, no Thermo Reactor stuff - no trouble with pulled studs - but no guarantees as well - check for oil leaks, traces can be found on the heat exchangers. They do all leak, and if they do not, they will start later. I do not say it's normal, but it is common, and can be fixed by pulling the engine and resealing a lot of things.
A 74 is a underestimated car. It has the small body (yummy) and the nice crome trim and chrome mirrors, as well as the rear windows that can be openend. If you crawl into a 74 you will discover a lot in common with a 73.5 (far more than with an SC f.e.). Driving is hell of fun, the car is lightweigt and has more torque than the 2.4 engine in the lower revs. Get rid of AC because it is a waste of money and weight.

If the car passes on rust (I also had some as you can see in the pictures) and the engine does not spit oil or smokes I do not see the car worth under 10K.

A word on the mentioned two years the the car was stored: Worst case (as my car): All calipers stuck (rusted) and in need of overhaul (total cost here in Europe was around 1K$) - replace of brake hoses and some fuel hoses, replace all fluids and check the tires. If the car was sitting for two years on the tires, they are toast. Consider this in your calculation.

best regards

Heiko

[mvanbens]

"You don't mean Delaware do you?" Correct, Delaware.

Thanks for the feedback so far.

Sounds like I should take a serious look at potential rust locations. Did the list presented above by Hesse James identify all the key areas to look at on a '74? I imagine some other posts were created specific to this topic. I have done a front pan on my '70 911T so understand the work involved with some of these repairs if needed.

No specific knowledge of the engine work but from a quick visual it does have the oil fed tensioners and a blowoff valve on the airbox.

Thanks everybody.

-Matt

[porschecab]

I just sold (less than 30 days ago) a RUST FREE 1974 NON-S. Motor HAD been worked and documented, very clean car, but it did need paint to be perfect. Interior was clean, but best part is that the car had a GREAT motor (stock 2.7) and tranny was good. I got $8,500 after two months!
This car would be $5,000 with all of the unknowns to MAYBE $6,500 in my book. Great car though!

[Hesse James]

would have been a good car for me though - I think this was way too little money for a pretty 74 small chassis non smog equipped car. But market has it's own rules. Did you put up the car here for sale? Have you considered to sell overseas? Here in Germany f.e. a car meeting your descritption sells for about 20-25K$.
As for the rust:
The places I described were more or less show stoppers for buying a car, as long as it is not a project. There are more places to check (doors underside and doors inside, where the sheetmetal is overlapping - it will rust inside out, when you see it - it is too late), around the windows (especially front window lower edges near the fender), and all the parts that were exposed the dirt from the wheels, and of course the battery area, a guaranteed rust spot including the front panel (sometimes hard to see - rusts from inside out) and the place where the fenders are fixed to the chassis (don't know the right term in English) - bur also most of the time hidden unless you remove the fenders. Also check the floor panel around the pedals.

good luck

Heiko