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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 147
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I am going to be replacing the motor mounts within the next week or so and was just wondering if there is anything I should be aware of before doing the job? I am also doing this at school, and I will be using a lift, so should I lift the engine from the top using a fender hoist or should I lift it from the bottom using a jack? Also what needs to be taken out to be able to lift the engine? I read 3 different instructions and one says you need to unbolt this and that, but the other says you dont have to unbolt that part, you have to unbolt something else... to tell you the truth I'm pretty confused. If anyone else has simpler instructions or tips I'd be interested!
Thanks Jon
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"I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself." -Dr. Ferdinand Porsche '87 924S Guards Red, 944 turbo bars, 220lb. springs, Restoration Project even though its and original, 72,000 mile car '93 325is Red, aftermarket rims, pirelli tires, 95,000 miles |
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That Guy
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The best way to support the engine is from above. The car i changed them on was also in the air. What i did was use two pieces of wood plank, probaly 1 or 1.5 inches thick. I placed two pieces on each strut tower. You can then use heavy duty steel snaps, shackles or quick links ( i used quick links). Look around on WestMarine.Com if you dont know what these look like..they are used to secure anchor chain on boats and ships. I know you can get them from Home Depot..but make sure you get ones rated for more than 250-300 lbs.
Anyhow get some good quality chain (again make sure its good for 3-400lbs) and put the quick links on each engine hoist ring. Now what you use to support across the strut towers is up to you. You can use a couple pieces of heavy duty wood, i used steel super strut which ithink you can get from home depot also (my friend had it on hand). Connect the chain to one of the quick links, wrap the chain over the superstrut, and get it as tight as possible, then connect it to the quick link. You will get what i mean when you are doing this. The chain will only get so tight due to the length of the links. Just get it as tight as possible. Now i was a bit scared to just unbolt the cross member and go.. so i put one of those stand up jacks (the type that are about 4ft tall( under the oil pan fins, i put a wood block under the pan (to prevent damage to the pan) and supported the engine from below also. It was kind of peace of mind that an engine wasnt going to fall on my head. You can simply disconnect the steering rack from the crossmemeber and let it hang from the tie rods. I choose to remove the rack completley as i was dropping the oil pan aswell. You might want to take out the airbox and AFM to get maxium space to reach the front engine hoist ring. Other than that, nothing else needs to be taken off.
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Jon 1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L 2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3 Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1 Last edited by Techno Duck; 11-08-2006 at 05:54 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 703
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This should explain it.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/ ENG-11, Motor Mounts - Checking ENG-12, Motor Mounts - Replacing Ode to The Clark!!
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1987 924S with 968 Drive front to back, Bilstein Insert on mod/stock Struts, 450# Hypercoils, 28mm Torsion Bars, Weltmeister Adjustable Sway Bars, Lindsey 968 Light flywheel, Spec Stage II Clutch, ToYO RA1's, Auto Power Cage & 6 pt Harness, KLA Strut Brace, Greasy hands, heavy foot, and lots of smiles |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 703
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PS Lift=means easier but the legs are kinda in the way. You Can unbolt and Roll the Steering Rack Forward and not have to remove Steering Columb or A-arms. At least that's what I've heard. Never broken down a job like that.
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1987 924S with 968 Drive front to back, Bilstein Insert on mod/stock Struts, 450# Hypercoils, 28mm Torsion Bars, Weltmeister Adjustable Sway Bars, Lindsey 968 Light flywheel, Spec Stage II Clutch, ToYO RA1's, Auto Power Cage & 6 pt Harness, KLA Strut Brace, Greasy hands, heavy foot, and lots of smiles |
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That Guy
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A picture is worth a thousand words!
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Jon 1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L 2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3 Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1 |
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Burn the fire.
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By far the easiest and quickest way I have found to replace the motor mounts, without unbolting the cross-member has been to support the engine from underneath with a thick piece of steel beam, with a flattened section placed under the oil pan. Since you're on a lift you can lower the car incrementally to achieve proper replacement.
Undo the two large nuts (17mm? 19mm?) that hold the bottom portion of the motor mount to the cross-member. Place your support under the engine pan, towards the side which you will be doing first. For the passenger's side you'll have to remove the heat shielding first. Once the nuts are undone from the bottom of the motor mount (on the cross member) you can loosen the 13mm bolts that hold the mount in. Lower the car on the lift with the support under the engine just enough to clear the motor mount by twisting 180º and pulling forward towards the radiator. Slip the new one in, opposite of removal. It might take a little leverage to get the motor mount to slip into the bottom of the engine mount support on the block properly. You'll see what I mean when you get to that point. Put your bolts in, your nut on the bottom, and tighten it up. Done right, you can do both sides in under an hour.
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[x] Working | [_] Broken: 2017 Victory Octane [x] Working | [_] Broken: 2005 Ram 1500 SLT w/5.7L Hemi "Drive it like you stole it." |
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