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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Penna
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Question Getting A 996 Up On Jack Stands

Hello,

I just purchased a 911 C4 about a moth ago! I"m a DIY guy and would like look around under the car. Could someone please tell me where to place the floor jack under the car to lift the front and rear? I need to get the car on jack stands.

Thanks guys!

Old 04-14-2007, 10:17 AM
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There are four jack pads on the belly near the wheels. The front pads are located just aft of the front wheels and the rears are located just forward of the rear wheels. You can't miss them.
Old 04-14-2007, 11:16 AM
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Thanks Scott! Yea, I already know were the jack stands will go once I get the car up in the air. As I said in the post, I need to know where to place the floor jack to raise the whole front end up and the same for the rear.
Old 04-14-2007, 11:59 AM
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There isn't a place up front. You have to lift from the rear jacking point i.e.raise the whole side of the car and place the stand under the front jack point and then lower onto it. Then repeat for the other side. To get the rear in the air,lift at the rear of the engine-there's a stub that can be used as a jacking point, and then place jack stands under the rear jacking point and then lower the car onto them.
Old 04-14-2007, 03:06 PM
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Hey Munro86 thanks! That's the only way to get all fours off the ground, huh? Have you done the process you explained before? Sounds a little risky
Old 04-14-2007, 03:20 PM
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Yes I've done it. Its not dangerous at all if your sensible. By that I mean don't jack the car up too high-you just need to get it high enough( jacking at the rear jack point to get the jack stand under the front jack point). If you've got similar jack stands to me, i.e. the ones with four legs and a serrated shaft with jaws at the top that slots into the top of the jack base and has a 'paw' or a 'tang' that engages the serrated shaft at the level you wan't the car at, then set the jack at the lowest level that your comfortable with. Obviously, if you set the stand at the highest level then there is a higher risk of the car toppling over if shaken or pushed beyond its tolerance, but this would have to be a significant shove to move them. In anycase you have to remember that the weight of the car is resting on the jacks, so unless an earthquake or the like happens, your pretty safe. If you've got an endless supply of money, hydraulic lfts can be purchased or at the other extreme some people construct a solid timber box which you could rest under the car instead of jack stands. If you use jackstands always remember to put something under the car ,like say a wheel, which will stop the car crushing you if the jackstand somehow fails.
Old 04-14-2007, 06:05 PM
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Okay very good! I give it a shot. Thanks again!
Old 04-15-2007, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munro86 View Post
There isn't a place up front. You have to lift from the rear jacking point i.e.raise the whole side of the car and place the stand under the front jack point and then lower onto it. Then repeat for the other side. To get the rear in the air,lift at the rear of the engine-there's a stub that can be used as a jacking point, and then place jack stands under the rear jacking point and then lower the car onto them.
Does anyone have a photo of the exact jacking point for a trolley jack position at the rear of the car so I can put two jack stands in position. I have a OTC low profile racing jack just waiting to be used plus two OTC stands. I would like the car on 4 stands for flushing the system when I change brake pads all round this week. Thanks.
Old 11-24-2011, 06:38 AM
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Overkill:-)

I should have saved for a lift
Probably Not recommended for most DIY'ers.

Happy Thanksgiving
Old 11-24-2011, 06:57 AM
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I love it!!
Old 11-24-2011, 09:15 PM
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See orient express thread in:
Putting your 996/986/997/987 up on Jackstands - RennTech.org Forums
__________________
2013 991.1 Carrera S Cab
2004 996 Turbo CAB X50 sold
2003 996 cab 6 speed Sold
1972 RS 3.2 twin plug short stroke crank fire, roll bar, sold
DE instructor since 1985
Old 11-25-2011, 04:09 AM
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If you are doing a brake job I was able to change my back brake pads and sensors in well less than 2 hours this morning. I didnt stick the spiders back onto the new pads but simly lay them back into the pistons with no goo on them. I checked out my front pads and they have lots of wear left on them so I didnt change them. I had no need to do any bleeding as i didnt mess with a bleed nipple anywhere. Anyone reading thinking of attempting the job. I am 70years of age and the job was a doddle to me. Front and back wheels both come off the ground together when I used a low profile jack on the REAR jacking point. My advice is 'go for it' it was as easy as falling off a log. Done a good test drive, no queaks, vibration or mushy brake pedal. I got my new OEM back and front break pads and 4 sensors (only one new sensor used and back brake pads) from Pelican Parts at $250.... free shipping
Old 11-25-2011, 05:35 AM
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+1 on FPB111's reply.

that's where I start from.
The car was up high to do the transmission, clutch, and flywheel.
At 101,000 miles!

Old 11-25-2011, 10:06 AM
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