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Considering an M3 (newbie needs help)
Idid a query to see what other people have questioned as far as what to look for when buying an M3, but I could not find enough to satisfy me. I am considering buying a 95ish to 99ish M3 by the end of the year. I currently have a 944 turbo P-car, so I can't dumb my next car down.
What are the things I should be aware of when getting a 95-99 M3? What are the money pits? What should I look to have been replaced at what intervals? What should I expect to last forever, provided the proper maintenance is adhered to? I am intimidated to drop $15K+ on a car with 75K+ miles, should I be worried? I will not be paying cash so it will have to run for at least 5-years and I will be a shared daily driver. Any and all feedback is appreciated. Looking forward to joining you all soon.
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'08 BMW e90 335i 6MT stock [aka 'take two'] '12 Dodge Durango [family hauler] '86 951 (K&N Cone, Welt Chips, Tial, Zeitronix, P&P O-ring PH Head, WFHG, AFPR) [in storage] |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 21
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Any E36 with that many miles you HAVE to make sure the water pump and radiator have been replaced recently, if not you are living on borrowed time. Shocks are known to go bad at 60k miles- so make sure they have been done or be prepared to drop $1k on that. Rear shock mounts are notoriously bad and need to be replaced about 60k miles (go Ground Control for those- OE parts SUCK). SUspension pick up points can present problems as well and may need to be reinforced.
I bought a 95 with 60k miles last year and use it as my daily driver. I am waiting new springs and shocks. I fully expect it to last 5 years without any major problems...however I probably won't keep it that long. Also...if you are looking for power...95s are easier to modify due to OBDI. Make sure to get a prepurchase inspection done as it can steer you away from dogs. |
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In the shop at Pelican
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 10,459
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gobuffs, while i agree with you on your other points, you dont have to upgrade to the Ground Control shock mounts. If you get a set of E46 m3 mounts, you will be ok.
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 21
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You could use OE RSMs but why would you? You put the Ground Control ones in and forget about them. If you put in ANY OE mounts (even the E46 ones) you WILL replace them down the road as they WILL fail. Not that it is a difficult procedure but why do extra work?
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In the shop at Pelican
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 10,459
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Because the Ground Control units squeak and cost a lot more than the OE units
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 123
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Gobuffs I wholeheartedly agree with you & you can also add control arm bushings as another replacement item in that mileage range if they havent been replaced.Urethane bushings are the popular choice from what I hear.My water pump went at 51K miles and my radiator isnt far behind. Why BMW placed the radiator so close to the engine is a mystery to me.
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Bimmerdog 1999 BMW M3 Coupe w/ 18"Breytons 1994 Toyota Corolla (winter/work) 1991 BMW 318is (in a dismantled state) 1990 VW JETTA Coupe (soon to be sold) |
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In the shop at Pelican
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 10,459
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The urethane bushings are nice, but they will squeak. Besides they really are for race applications only.
Not only will you need to replace the control arm bushings, but the control arms themselves that contain the ball joints as well as the front upper control arms. In the rear, you will also need to replace the trailing arm bushings, which is not a fun job. Im certianly not looking forward to it. You need a press to get the old bushings out. |
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my 0.02
I also own(ed) an 86-951 for many many years. I bought a 97 M3 about 3 years ago.. many of the points, I agree with, and some i dont.
1) check who was previously driving that M3. Men and kids will beat an M3 down quick... and you will need to replace RSMs and maybe RTABs. Maybe even the clutch and guibo. 2) What are the roads like in your area. People have ignored this very crucial parameter when determining if a car has blown shocks and mounts. In Atlanta (which is notorious for the smoothest average roads in america), I have 97k miles on original shocks and RSMs >> YES! it can be done. Ive check and they are tight! 3) You will blow through rotors... and brake pads. This car eats up rear rotors and pads at the same rate as the front. They're relatively cheap and make the car run like new all over. 4) Yea, water pump, hoses, thermostat.. make sure they are current... but at 85k. they probably are. My water pump was bad at 30k... and my thermostat blew at 90k over all. I ended up selling the 951 because the M3 just ate it up (in comfort, ride, interior, brakes, ...) except exterior style. now i want to buy another 951.. and keep the M3. Have i learned anything? YES.. keep em both. Steve
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74-1.8 (sold) 86-944 turbo (sold) 97-M3 coupe (sold) 03-M3 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/castlesteve/ |
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