burning Sealant with Gas....Need help!!!

[Oluncle]

Hello All,


First - This is a great forum ( I have spent less than 200 bucks solving a problem the dealers / mechanics squeezed $1000 out of me just by reading from this forum - DME Flooding )

I had a rough idle, smoking problem & wet plugs- Which i fixed by changing all my vacum hoses and Valve cover gasket. It stoped smoking and ran good but a bit rough, so I decided to use a sealant ( similar to GOOP but less viscose ) to ensure tightness around the air duct and by the throttle body???

I took the car for a spin, and the baby was firing high and had accelerating faster ( The car ran idle really rough on sitting but with a rich burn but very smooth on driving or on rev) - Also I lost some brake pressure.

I think somehow the sealant got into the intake manifold and I am now buring it with the fuel.

Lastly - I squeezed a bushing by the exhaust 18months ago, it caught fire from my exhaust running really hot after driving the car - Thank goodness I found it on time and knocked it out!

Pls help - What can I do to get rid of high burn - Buy a new intake or drain the fuel??? Hopefully I aint the first with stuff getting to their gas.

Its a 94 325i

Thanks!!!

[Jeron]

You put sealant on one of the air intake connections. Why do you think the sealant is being carried into the engine? Did you drive while the sealant was wet? Did you put so much that it could have dripped inside of the air intake and the hardened drips may have become dislodged and sucked into the engine?

[Oluncle]

Yep, I think I put too much and it sludged over and dripped into the intake. I think its exactly how you stated Jeron - "hardened drips may have become dislodged and sucked into the engine"

Any ideas please....Thanks

[Oluncle]

Guess what! - I decided that I wasnt going to sleep till I figured exactly what the heck was going on....so I started troubleshooting and taking everything apart again....lord and behold, the tube that goes into the ICV was completely out ---- that was what caused the crazy idling and mis-fire and the loss of pressure at the brakes!

The sealant is gradually getting burnt off and the smell is going away.

2 more problems arose - Engine light comes on and off....it comes on when I am not on the gas and goes off when I step on the gas...any suggestions on how fix?

The other issue is my ASC came on by itself and the button inside the car is not turning it off -- Help here will be great.

In all the old gal runs good with a good purr, but a tiny bit rough when stationary - any ideas on how to make it run smoother either when sitting or moving?

Thanks.

[Jeron]

I don't know all of the things that might cause the ASC light to come on but if you didn't connect the harness used to actuate the ASC restrictor plate in the air intake it would stay on.

There is a device in the air intake past the MAF that closes to restrict air flow when the ASC wants to limit power. This connector will be on the top of the air intake between the MAF and TPS.


For the engine light going on and off, do you have a computer that shows problems such as low coolant or brake light failure. I have a bad brake light that causes my check control light to go on and off. If your light really is the check engine and not check control then maybe it is another vacuum problem.

[Oluncle]

Thanks Jeron - You are a diagnosing machine in a mans body!

I have checked the connectors and the ASC is now fine. I do have the computer, and its not reading any fault - Even though I might be due for change of brakes.

The light that comes is the Check Engine - It goes off when I step on gas when driving and comes on when my acceleration levels off.

Another Vacum problem? Engine is running ok, a bit shaky on standstill but runs good when its rolling.

Pls advice

[Jeron]

Thank's for the kudos.

Sorry, I'm at a loss for a check engine light that goes off during acceleration. Maybe check the TPS for dropouts. Use an ohm meter and check for a smooth change in ohms while a friend works the gas pedal. I think with ign on but engine off.

[Oluncle]

will do....can you pls advise on where the Temp Sending Sensor unit is located?

[Jeron]

Sorry, Throttle position sensor (TPS). It should be one step closer to the intake manifold/engine then the ASC sensor we just discussed. It should have the throttle cable connected just below it. The throttle cable moves the butterfly that the TPS sits on top of.

[Oluncle]

Thanks...Got the TPS ( TPS was cause of CE light ).....I was actually looking for the Temp Sending Sensor to replace, and didnt know where it was located. I figured you might know.....pls advice if you know.

Thanks

[Jeron]

There is a temp sensor on the radiator that actuates the aux fan.

But you prob want the one on the engine that controls fuel inj and temp gauge. I should be on the engine block behind the oil filter housing and below the intake manifold. Look for a brass hex nut with a black harness coming out of it.

Sounds like you NEED to get a Bentley manual. They are $50 or less and invaluable.

[Oluncle]

Thanks Bud....You are right, I am Already on Ebay bidding for one!

FYI to the World - DO NOT BUY HAYNES MANUAL FOR BMW ITS WORTHLESS!!!!!!