Project evil e30: m30 build up

[TerryBPP]

My recent decision to swap a 85' m30 into my previously m10 turbo equppied e30 has started taking shape. After picking up the m30 2 weeks ago I have been gathering parts and info as to what I should rebuild to make this motor hold up to 15-20 psi from a HX45W Holset turbo. Hopefully reaching my 300-400 hp. Come to find out, not much.



The rods, pistons, and crank are all forged. 8:1 compression and all around solid as a rock. So I have decided to do a stock bottom rebuild and just use ARP head studs and a MLS head gasket.

The head was rebuilt buy the previous owner with bigger valve, 288 Shrick cam, and opened up intake ports. So no need to mess with that.



After picking up the engine and disassembling it I found all the internals to be in excellent specs. Only thing missing was a good crosshatch on the piston walls. Which concurs with the PO's assement as to why the motor was using too much oil (See previous thread). So I needed to have the cylinders honed.



Being the DIYer that I am I decided to read up on the process and ask a few questions around here (thanks guys). I found that a Flex hone aka. dingleberry or grape hone was the best way to do it. So I bought a new one off ebay for $40 (the machine shop wanted $75 plus I had to pull the crank out). Here's a play by play:

Still a pattern on the original cross hatch but not texture to it:




95mm (3 3/4") 220 grit Flex hone:


Hone on drill:


The advice give to me was insert the hone in the cylinder and then make three pass throught the cylinder. I also cut out a piece of card board to lay down in the cylinder bottom to protect the crank. Worked alot better than the garbage bag I used on the first cylinder, lol.

I used standard motor oil to lubricate the cylinders. Some say use ATF, some motor oil. Never use WD-40 because it has a cleaning agent that can harm your cylinder walls.



After 3 passes on each cylinder this was the final product. Not a perfect 60 degree hatch like recommend but it should do fine:





Then came a major was down with soft soap and water. Some of the honing stone had broken apart and left grit in the cyndlers and down on the crank. Took about 1hr to clean and dry. Then I relubed the motor making sure the no parts that would rust.

Now I'm waiting for my new connecting rod bearings, piston rings, head studs, and gaskets.

I also order the m30-e30 motor mounts from e30.de. Not the cheapest part but will most likely save me some fitting and aligning troubles in the future.

[wludavid]

Originally posted by TerryBPP
I also order the m30-e30 motor mounts from e30.de. Not the cheapest part but will most likely save me some fitting and aligning troubles in the future.

Nice, looking forward to seeing more of your buildup. Are you also posting on e30tech.com?

Were there any other options for motor mounts besides the e30.de versions?

[TerryBPP]

Yeah, I posted in the Mod Garage section.


The e30.de mounts are the only option besides making your own. I figured for $250 shipped it was worth having everything line up correctly and no guess work issues.

[Jims5543]

They do not look strong enough for the task at hand to me. That is a long reach with little material.

Good job with the honing. Sometimes you can overthink that stuff. You basically just trying to rough up the surface so the rings will seat.

Good progress, keep us posted.

[TerryBPP]

[Driver Ed]

Thanks for the pictures and story. I'm rehabilitating a recently acquired E30 myself, and I'm considering adding a supercharger but hadn't yet pulled the engine to do a rebuild yet. Compression tests actually looked pretty good, but it's a 200k engine.

[Mr Beau]

Some new standard iron rings (not chrome) and you should be good to go.

[jase007]

Terry:

Looks like an interesting project!


Driver Ed

Compression tests actually looked pretty good, but it's a 200k engine.

Mine had good compression and religious maintenance ... recently pulled the head and the camshaft and all rockers, valve guides, seals were shot ... at 219,213 miles [1990 325ix].

FWIW

Jase

[Driver Ed]

Thanks for the info, Jase. I haven't yet opened it up to check the valve guides, but had budgeted for that. It also has a few suspicious oil leaks, so I might well tear it apart and rebuild but was hoping for some obvious sign to justify that action. What made you decide?

[jase007]

IM was off to chase some vacuum / oil leaks and head gasket was leaking oil down pasenger front right corner. Also, cam seal was leaking and this goes right onto timing belt = NOT good.

Figured 90% of work was taking off IM and misc. parts ... was actually sending head to machine shop to get "checked out" when call came with the $$$ big news. Decided to bite the bullet and get mine redone .. versus buying questionable aftermarket head and or reconditioned head from BMW [bigger $$$$].

Will write up details in a thread I hope to post soon on the subject with pics.

[TerryBPP]

Ford EDIS-6 wheel and VR sensor install:


Here is the whole EDIS-6 system. It consists of a 6 plug coil pack, VR sensor, plug wires, 36-1 toothed wheel, and EDIS module. I got the whole setup on ebay but the parts can be found on any 4.0 Ford explorer or ranger.



36-1 toothed wheel & VR sensor:



The 36-1 wheel needs to mounted on the crank so that the VR sensor is 6 teeth behind the missing tooth at TDC.



I made a nice little bracket to hold the VR sensor so that it would me 1 mm away from the toothed wheel and also clear the vibration dampener and all the accesory belts.



After carefully aligning the toothed wheel with the pulley and the VR sensor I welded the two together. Remember, measure 50 times, weld once.



Then I reattached the pulley and aligned the toothed with the sensor. This took some time to get perfect. Note: due to the heat from welding, one of my pulley holes would no longer line up so I drilled it so I could install the bolt.







I'll grind down those big ole welds and shoot it with some black paint when I start detailing the engine.

Next update will be installing the e34 oil pan and pump to clear the steering rack of the e30.

[Mr Beau]

Hey Terry,

For your sensor bracket, is the one bolt enough to keep it from moving/vibrating at the tooth end? I don't know how tolerant these sensors are from moving around (even if it's just a 'little').

At any rate, it looks like you're making good progress. Keep it up!

[gabriel_73]

just wondering what transmission and differential you will be using, can't wait to see the finished product.