New bimmer owner... a few questions to get me started.

[kingsly]

New Bimmer owner here. '93 325i. 101k miles.

First of all:
My timing chain is rattling around (I cant really describe the sound, other than what a loose, rattle-y chain generally sounds like... the closest thing I can think of would be dragging a large chain down asphalt).

I can hear is faintly when the engine idles and slightly louder when I rev it. I also probed around with a screwdriver stethoscope to be sure the sound is coming from the timing chain area.
Based on the pelican parts article about replacing the lower chain tensioner, I would be willing to bet that that is what needs fixing. The article mentioned a one piece tensioner upgrade, but I cant find it on the site.

My question boils down to:
1) What are the odds that a lower tensioner replacement will fix the issue?
2) What part(s) do I need to buy to get the job done?

Furthermore:
Sometimes upon shutting off the car the OBC warns me to check the coolant level. I checked and it is fine (although dirty looking). To be on the safe side I refilled the coolant tank and called the previous owner. He said he had the same problem and that his mechanic said it has something to do with a faulty sensor. Has anyone heard of this? Is it easy to fix?

And finally:
The squeeze button on the automatic gear selector is stuck in the "pressed" position, making it very easy to bump the car into another gear (or worse, into reverse) while driving or even sitting still. How would I go about fixing that?

(P.S. if it involves ripping out the entire gear select/lower dash area, I may as well fix the auto/manual selector button, which seems to be loose in its mount. Is it easy to re-seat it and firmly re-attach it to the vehicle á la factory spec?)

I know, it's a lot of totally unrelated questions. Hopefully, though, I can get all the small bugs worked out a be left with an awesome BMW!

[kingsly]

Hello? Someone? I really need to order the parts for my timing chain tensioner before I start skipping sprockets and kill my engine!

[LiquidBMW76]

The coolant level problem is probably your leveling switch attached to the expansion tank. #22 on this page http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CB43&mospid=47498&btnr=17_0093&hg=17&fg=05

Also there is a rod that is in the expansion tank that lets you check the level visually, it has been known to break and get wedged to where it doesn't move up and down which will also give you a low coolant reading.

[Jeron]

The leveling switch doesnt always fix it but you should replace it first anyway.

The tensionser rod is about $100 and easy to replace.

Search this forum there are at least 6 good threads.

Make sure to read these two:
E36 325 Upper Cam Tensioner Replacement
Vanos noise with M3 cam in M50tu

[kingsly]

The only $100 tensioner rods I see are both for M3. Am I missing something or are they mis-marked? If I were to stay with the multi-part tensioner, do I just need the piston?

[Jeron]

Sorry. Yes, I was quoting the price for the M3 part. Its a bad habit.

Yours is cheaper.

I dont know which piece you need.

[kingsly]

According to this picture, the tensioner (or at least the part that needs replacing) consists of a piston, spring, and a endcap. Shall I replace the spring while I am at it? Also, does pelican parts sell the little washers that go between the endcap and main cylinder (the part that stays attached to the engine)?

Thanks.