Pelican Parts
Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   Pelican Parts Forums > BMW Forums > BMW Technical Forums > 101 Projects Discussion Forum: BMW 3-Series


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Registered
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,147
What is the F-d-d-d-d-d-d-d Vibration??

1997 328 Automatic, 150k miles

80 mph or higher, a slight left curve makes the whole car shake and make a noise like it has gone off on the shoulder and hit the rumble strip - but the highway is smooth.

If I floor it in first gear, there will be a brief 1-second bout of the same noise. It feels and sounds rather as though the antilock brakes were engaging, except the car is not slowing down, it is accelerating hard.

I disengaged the ASC and tried the low gear acceleration - no change.

The sound and frequency of the vibration makes me want to focus on the antilock brake system, but that should not engage unless the brake is pressed, right? I have no warning lights lit.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Old 06-05-2010, 12:11 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 88
Garage
exploded guilbo, put your car on a lift look aft of the transmission you'll see a spider of what should be a guibo (rubber disc about 2 inches thick 6 inches diameter. parts cost about $55 plus new bolts (not always necessary) a pair of 22mm wrenches floorjack and jackstands a good friend and a sunday and you'll be good to go.
Old 06-11-2010, 12:32 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,147
Thanks. The other day I pulled both end up on ramps looking for a problem in the front and rear suspension, but from either end, the center of the car was too low to get beneath it to check the driveshaft, Will have to work a little harder to get the car up.
Old 06-12-2010, 06:37 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5
Did you raise each corner and give the wheels a good shake?

I had a rear wheel bearing go bad and I couldn't even feel it while driving (commuter, not racer). First indication was when the rotor started rubbing the caliper bracket. When I installed the puller equipment the hub came off in my hands. The only thing holding my wheel on was the rotor edge captured by the caliper bracket! Scary. Not a difficult job since the bearing was practically falling out. I intend to do the other side this year just because. Car has 150k so it's probably due.
Old 06-12-2010, 05:09 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 88
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manolito View Post
Thanks. The other day I pulled both end up on ramps looking for a problem in the front and rear suspension, but from either end, the center of the car was too low to get beneath it to check the driveshaft, Will have to work a little harder to get the car up.
i don't know how good you are with people but most auto shops will put your car on a lift if you ask nicely. the only problem you may have will be the heatshield. in which case lower the car a little stand under the tranny and shine a flashlight towards the aft of the car and look above the heatshield (you'll see what you need to i promise it's there) it will look kind of like an exploded black birds nest.
Old 06-14-2010, 10:28 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #5 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
I agree with 'whatt18yahoo' this sounds like it's more likely a linkage issue than a brake issue. You can replace the tranny mount disc and it may help, when I had these sort of symptoms though it was because I had broken the central drive shaft bearing though. It is located around where your center console sits and is at the point where the trans-axle has a split. Of important thought though is why that might break; in my case, with a 98' 328i manual with around that many miles, it was that the U-joints had worn out on my trans-axle and were no longer functioning properly, so whenever I put torque on it, it would try to buckle and eventually broke the central bearing and after that would just flail around and beat up everything in the area. (I would feel vibration and a loud thunk thunk thunk under hard acceleration). A new trans-axle with new u-joints and a corresponding new central bearing and I was fixed, I replaced the tranny mount disc while I was at it since it was due.

'ChillyB' also has a good point with your bearings if your getting bad wobble. Check em out and also see if you have excessive play in your tie-rods/control arms.

I hope you figure your problem out, best of luck!

***I am not a mechanic and make no claims that any of the above info will solve your issues, use the information at your own risk - I'm merely passing along knowledge I have gained from working on my own vehicles, which may be different for yours***

Old 06-18-2010, 12:37 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #6 (permalink)
 
Reply


 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:13 AM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.