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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 163
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Seal for air valve housing difficult to replace?
Hi guys ,
Finally my 89 930 is & finally reliable after a couple of issues were solved / fixed . Loosing power at 4000 rpm was because of wrong routing of the vacuum hoses , melting fuel pump relays and 25 amp fuse , the big macaroni shaped hose was also replaced . Yellow relay for air flow sensor was likewise replaced . Ignition wire from the ignition coil to distributor was likewise replaced . And finally my CDI box was repaired and w/ parts upgraded w/ the help of pelican parts forum . The car now runs better than before except for the metallic sound that I hear occasionally . After researching the forum this part needs to be replaced . Is this part hard to replaced or to work at . It’s part no. 7 in the diagram and the parts are available from our host.  
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10-17-2021, 07:13 PM
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As I recall, the front seal (front being the front of the car) is not easy to remove with out removing the whole valve housing. The rear seal is not to difficult IIRC.
Rahl
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1976 930 turbo Carrera, "Ubich". Mostly stock, lightly sweetened. She’s an angry schwierigkeit. She doesn’t want flowers, she just wants to dance! And when she does, she shakes her hips to the rythem of the road. Drive her like you hate her! |
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10-17-2021, 08:04 PM
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Thank you Rahl for your reply is the valve housing difficult to remove to acces the front part ? Thanks in advance
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10-18-2021, 02:24 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 323
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Quote:
The large hoses on the left side can be a challenge to put back on. Take your time and you'll be fine. There are threads on pelican that describe the process with great photos. |
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10-18-2021, 03:03 AM
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IIRC the spring (#4 in the diagram) is available as well. I replaced mine when I replaced the seals since I was already there.
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1987 M491 Widebody, Nautic Blue / Linen with a 1979 930 3.3L Cali Engine |
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10-18-2021, 04:10 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,032
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Or you could mothball the air diverter and convert to a long neck inner cooler
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81 Pacific Blue 930 Euro coupe slicktop on a strict diet, Rarlyl8 headers, Blowzilla turbo, Tial waste gate, Full bay I/C, Home made center out exhaust, Leask WUR, MSD 6AL, PLX wideband Wevo shifter, LSD. Next up, Cams, Heads and port work |
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10-18-2021, 01:20 PM
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Posts: 163
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Thanks you very much for your replies and tips , I ordered the part already
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10-18-2021, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle-ish
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Simply FYI, those end caps are under a fair bit of tension, due to the compressed internal spring. If you are not careful while doing the disassembly, you will be in for an unwelcomed surprise.
For removing the first end cap, leave 2 screws in place (180 degrees apart) by 2 or 3 threads, then firmly hold the end cap in place while you remove those 2 screws, release pressure on the end cap slowly as the spring pushes against it. Mark |
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10-22-2021, 02:09 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Louisville,Ky
Posts: 192
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I replaced mine a few years ago and it really wasn't that difficult compared to a few other tasks. I'll be doing a long neck conversion this winter using this piece for parts.
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3.4,K27,Andial IC,Sc cams,Ported heads,Electromotive Ign,Twin plug,Leask Wur,RarlyL8 zork,GHL headers,Simplified CIS,Ported fuel head,Fikse wheels,Etc.Go hard or go home |
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10-22-2021, 10:55 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 163
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Thanks for the tip full quack . I will ask my mechanic to be careful . And follow your advice
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10-22-2021, 10:20 PM
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1976 Porsche 930
