1979 Turbo Removal - In Progress - Need Tips

[bleachii]

Hello All,

Been a long while, hope everyone is well. Spent a bunch of money to get my car on road again and was going great until the 45 year old turbo seals went poo poo. Should have dealt with them while car was being sorted but didn't know and didn't happen so here we are. Thanks for any answers in advance.

For anyone else that ends up here I also used the following two posts for tips:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/914647-how-long-remove-turbo.html

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/831478-replacing-turbo.html

Anyhow, for some dumb reason I thought it would be pretty straight forward to remove the turbo myself rather than pay and then tow car home while turbo was being rebuilt. Not sure about that now. Things had been going well but I've hit a few brick walls and rather than surrender or worse, break something I've decided to stop for the day and ask for help.

Photo of 930 with her pants down



Anyhow, I believe I'm 4 nuts (problems) away. I need some pointers please as to how to solve these problems. As an aside, the car has the exhaust from a 86-89 model years if that matters for problems 2 and 3. Photos included.

Problem #1 - Oil catch can line

Which nut turns? The silver one or the black one? I think once this is removed I can get the catch can and lines out of the way as they are all loose now. I started trying to turn the black one on the oil catch side but I suspect it's the silver one so I stopped. Big issue is force vs finesse. Didn't feel right so I stopped until I know for sure. Black one is 19mm. What's the size of the silver side? I have 19 and then 24mm so I probably will need to get a wrench for it unless I use an adjustable.




Problem #2: Exhaust Nut #1 Drivers side

I'm assuming this will be easier to access once I remove the catch can. Is this a true statement? Any other tricks?



Problem #3: Exhaust Nut #2 Passenger side

I have the front two nuts removed/loosened (they were not terribly difficult to crack) but the rear two are tricky access. I suspect this one is the toughest of the 4. I think I read stubby 14 but even that seems really tough to get in there. The one on the left is already loose and everything has been soaking in PB Blaster for a week. Any tricks here?



Problem #4: Inside nut of oil drip line from engine bay

Can't get access from rear of the car. This one seems easy. Looks like it's right there but 13mm box wrench that worked on the easier front one just doesn't work on this one. Can't move the wrench after I get the wrench on the nut. Coming from other direction looks like a houdini magic trick to me. Tried a socket but couldn't get it to fit either.

[Alan L]

Easy - do it all the time.
The black 'nut' on the catch can is fixed. You need to hold/support that and swing on the silver one. An adjustable will do if you don't have the right size. Just make it tight on the nut. But hold it all steady via the black nut. Don't twist that one.
The rear exhaust nuts on the turbo exhaust flange should be allen head screws - a long handle T bar works fine. The nuts should be captive on a bracket joining them together - so it is not impossible to service them.
That oil feed bracket at the top of the turbo stays on. That tube drops out thru the tin.
Good luck. Not too difficult.
Alan
Edit - you need to disconnect the flexi oil feed line to the fixed oil line on the turbo - the connection is by the base of the dizzy. Anyway - thats how I do it. Again you should support the 'nut' on the hard oil line (the lower bit). 19mm on top and 17mm below I think. I have a 17mm open end spanner I have bent slightly for that job - to slip in under the flexi tube nut.

[bleachii]

Thanks Alan. Assumed the rear exhaust nuts were same as the two I already did. I'll try and get a better view once the catch can is out of the way.

[bleachii]

Happy St. Patrick's Day to all. Had some sleep and started working on these final 4 problems. Was able to finally wrap my head around problems 2 and 3 and solved them. Some notes for everyone.

1. The hidden exhaust nuts are a slightly different setup than the 2 more visible ones. When Alan said they should be 'captive on a bracket' that told me (after a lot of thinking) that they are to be removed by the bolts from the bottom. I was also then able to see the bracket.

2. Mine don't have allen heads so I used a 17mm with ratchet to remove. I started down that path yesterday but stopped because I could not get my socket to fit all the way on the easier to access bolt due to how tight it is against the pipe (sorry no photo here). I realized this morning I could get it enough and holding steady able to get it cracked. The other one was easily done the same way with an extension.

So I'm down to what I think should be the easier issues but I'm still stuck. The oil catch connection (silver and black) which is problem #1 is still an issue (looks so easy). Thought that would be my easy fix this morning.

Using my adjustable wrench I can't seem to get enough of the nut because it's tight against the pipe behind it. You can see it from this new angle. I'll probably source a proper sized wrench today as I think I just need the right tool. Anyone know what size? The black side is 19mm. I'm thinking the silver is 21 but might also be 20mm.

Alan also said to remove the drip oil line from engine bay instead of the turbo to solve problem #4 (edit: just realized he also edited to give more instructions here). Going to face a similar issue with wrench and space to work. Any options for the 17mm besides bending one? I have a map torch but not really wanting to use it. Will try to bend on my vice first if I have an extra 17mm.

Am I looking for a stubby 19mm? Or does a regular size wrench fit? My 19mm seems too much for the space. (edit 2: confirmed 17/19 top side). I assumed same as the one below decks. but this is not the case.

Removed the small hose on the 'dizzy'. I've always heard you guys talking about it but wasn't sure it's location or what it does. Pretty sure its the flying saucer connected to the distributor? What does it do?

Or maybe I'm over thinking everything. These are hard lines and the oil catch looks expensive or made from unobtanium so I'm being super careful here as I haven't broken anything yet. So close to having this thing done. Think I have wrong tools.

[Alan L]

My set up is slightly different to yours. I have flex lines and AN fittings where you are struggling with the scavenge line. And I would suggest replacing those hard to get to bolts on the rear of the turbo exhaust flange with allen head bolts. I guess mine was done previously. Easy job with the right allen key T bar.
That line on the dizzy is the vac advance line.
Not sure what the size of that nut is - but looks like you would get some callipers across it.
Alan

[bleachii]

Thank you so much Alan. Your first response especially gave me the tips I needed.

After I was able to get the 2 exhaust bolts removed I decided to fire up the diesel truck and head to the store to source a stubby 17 and stubby 19 for the engine bay oil line. This seemed easier and safer than firing up the map torch to make my own bendy tools.

Also, to source a 21mm wrench to take care of the catch can line (problem #1) to the hard oil line. O'Reilly's doesn't carry stubby's in those sizes even on St. Patricks Day!

went to Home Depot. Guess what? They don't either, but you know who does? The Jungle. I ordered both the stubby's from Amazon while standing in HD and they will be here tomorrow. But, tomorrow means next weekend for me and it was still only 11a. I'm no quitter so I ran over to Lowes and you know what else? Lowes carries the exact same stuff as HD but calls it something different. I already know this but I went anyways. Probably trying to delay going home to my mess.

Got home and immediately found out the 21mm needs to be bigger. Sigh. Truck. HD. 22mm. Home. Whew correct size. I got a bit more aggressive with it and cracked the nut and my knuckles on sheet metal. Almost feel like one of you guys now. One to go but still no stubbies and in a world of next day gratification I need same day gratification.

Through devine intervention I found the tool in my toolbox on the left in 13mm. Just exactly the size needed to fit on that rear oil drip hard line on top of the turbo but on the bottom side of the tin I had given up on (Original Problem #4). My dad gave me that tool 30 years ago. We lost him last year so as far as I'm concerned he might as well been standing there and handed it to me. 1/8 of a turn at a time will eventually get it free.

There were more challenges but mostly it became a puzzle and wrestling match until I was holding that turbo feeling nothing but relief it was mostly over. Spent another 2 hours cleaning, taking photos, videos, putting nuts and bolts where they go and documenting everything.

Next I need to find a shop to do the rebuild. I found a place in Phoenix area a while back that's first on my list. Might even be two of them in the phoenix area. Can't recall the name but will start my research again. Wasn't confident enough in my abilities to get it out of the car so decided to hold off looking them up until I was successful. One step at a time.

[Alan L]

Well done.
You will find it easier for next time (:-)) if you;
swap those rear exhaust flange bolts out for allen head - and purchase the appropriate T bar at the same time and;
figure out how to crack the oil feed line above the tin.
It will cut your work time in half.
Regards
Alan

[Alan L]

Tried top post a pic of my 17mm spanner for the oil feed line. But can't - problems at my end.
But you won't find one short enough. You could cut one but then it will be too short to be useful. Mine is bent just behind the open end head.
Alan

[bleachii]

Yes, planning to take your advice. Will look for allen head bolts. Hopefully the two wrenches on order will help with cracking the oil line above tin. I suspect they will.

[bleachii]

Originally Posted by Alan L

Tried top post a pic of my 17mm spanner for the oil feed line. But can't - problems at my end.
But you won't find one short enough. You could cut one but then it will be too short to be useful. Mine is bent just behind the open end head.
Alan

OK, I have a 13 I made a long time ago when working on the exhaust bent just like you described. I know I can do it but it's been a while. If the stubbies don't work I'll make one.

[Alan L]

it is just much easier to crack the one nut above rather than two difficult ones below.
Alan

[RarlyL8]

Good job!
Your '79 is actually the easy one to remove the turbo due to the early catch can. That later kidney bean looking mess can be a challenge.
I've got a rebuilt 3LDZ sitting on the shelf if you want to save some time and swap them.

[krasuskyp]

nicely done

yup, owning a 930 necessitates a toolbox full of specially bent or procured spanners fersuredly 8-)

not sure what direction you're going w/ rebuilding or replacing your 3LDZ - I'd replace w/ something muuuuch more modern / effective... but if preserving originality you can have yours rebuilt with the "Raptor" upgrade I believe to bring it to more current performance standards. Ish heh heh. Suggest Charlie @ Evergreen in FL

[bleachii]

Thanks gentlemen for chiming in. Lonely business working on the business end of my 930 with minimal experience. This forum is one of the only places that brings some light to the dark when I'm not sure what to do next. Hence why I also try to post photos to help someone down the line.

I would have preferred to just pay but logistics are complicated when the shop is an hour away, booked weeks in advance and you know the part is going to be some time out of the car necessitating bringing the car home in the meanwhile. Seems so straight forward to remove the turbo since it's right there. Maybe for some it is but that's a major undertaking for me.

The car is low miles around 24k so I really want to keep the parts 100% original. Thanks for letting me know Brian. Also glad I got the 'easy' version of the job haha.

I called Chris at TurboKraft hoping to just drive the turbocharger to their shop to be rebuilt but he said they are going to send it to Charlie at Evergreen in Florida. So I called Charlie and will be mailing to him. I am not one to shy away from irrational road trips but CA to FL is even a bit too irrational for me.

Chris also noted I should rebuild the scavenger pump so not sure what I'm going to do here. I will look at it. I may just get the turbo back, reassemble and take it to my shop to do the scavenger pump. Hope no issues in the short time from getting it on the road to the scavenger rebuild. Another part I would have to figure out how to get out of the car.

[Alan L]

Now that you are in there and got your hands dirty, the scavenge pump is easy doings. No special tools needed :-)
But you did make a good call on the turbo removal. Much more convenient to send the turbo than the car.
Alan

[flightlead404]

Next time you'll be able to do it in half the time.

The time after that you'll knock off another 20%

By the time you've done it 5 or 6 times it'll be a no brainer lol

Get some high quality copper anti-seize and use new bronze nuts on quality new SS hardware on the exhaust where it sees high temp.

[bleachii]

Ordering all new hardware and gaskets from TurboKraft as Chris helped me with some questions I had and they have a 'kit'. I usually order from Pelican but in this case it made sense to order from Chris.

Appreciate the tips!

I sure hope I don't have to do this another 5 or 6 times

[Alan L]

Lost count of the number of times I have pulled mine. 50-100?
Less than 30 mins.
Alan

[bleachii]

Alan, Turbokraft has the allen head bolts so they are also part of my order.

[Alan L]

Good one. Make sure to get the T bar that fits them.
Now make a bent 17mm open end spanner for the top oil line fitting and you have just halved your work time. To........... 1/2 day :-)
Alan