Bye Bye Clicking Sound..A Slow'N'Rusty Pictorial - BOV Housing

[slow&rusty]

Hi Gang - Well I wanted to write-up a quick Tech Article on getting rid of the inevitable "clicking" sound when you blip the throttle of your 930 - we will all cross this bridge at some point!! Not a way to impressive your friends when they are all around your car and it sounds like a little hammer hitting aluminum (which it really is!!).

My car suffered from the infamous "clicking" sound when I bought it, so it only took me three years to address this issue...LOL! I actually had some free time this weekend for a change, so I said, why not!

The BOV made by KKK is pretty simple. It is integral in the intake manifold casting and is an aluminum piston that is spring loaded and is moved by air, over time the silver aluminum piston hits the end seals and turns them into candle wax (literally) so it no longer has a seat, they crumble up and deteriorate.

Time required: 2-3hours, get your favorite tunes in the garage jamming and some good alone time where you will not be disturbed.

Cost : $5.50 from our sponsor good ole Pelican Parts (no joke!!), you buy the seals as a pair. They are in stock and the part number: 930 110 149 00 and is described as Seal for Air Valve Housing (Boost Valve Housing), it is Number (7) below:

(I love these parts diagrams from Pelican BTW - AWESOME!!)

Skill Level: If my dumb ass can do it, you can too! No choice swear words eminated from my mouth on this project, so really it can't be bad..LOL

Step 1: Remove the intercooler and all associated clamps, hoses and plumbing. Easy!

Step 2: Remove the large rubber elbow under the intercooler to the intake manifold - Easy!

Step 3: You will now gain access to the end covers for the BOV housing. Both these covers are secured by 4x10mm nuts and washers each. Loosen the 10mm nuts on the front and rear covers and be careful as the the spring loaded piston will try to launch out so it requires you are ready!!! Take your time.
Here is the front cover:

Gently pry the covers off with a flat edge screwdriver, after 20years of being secured they are on there pretty solid, like so:


The front cover will ONLY come off with the lower right stud removed. The rear cover will ONLY come off with 3 out of the 4 studs removed. This is a bit more work but not bad and only requires that you double up the 10mm nuts nice and tight and off they come. Remember patience! Like so:


Here is the deteriorated front seal that turned to wax over the years, that you are going to replace...look at it...crumbled before my eyes:


Here is the BOV piston and spring ready to come out:


Here is the actual entire internal KKK BOV assembly all removed prior to cleaning:


Here are the seals, in the picture on the left is the rear seal (still in decent shape) on the right the front seal - completely deteriorated and the new seals from Pelican Parts mocked-up ready to go back -in:


Re-installation is opposite to removal (please clean everything whistle clean!!)and I used just a slight lick of Permatex Ultra Grey on the surface of the covers where they seal to the intake housing, as I am not a big fan of metal on metal.

Hope that helps all those attempting this project some time soon!

My best - Yasin

[MT930]

Outstanding ! great shots!

Thanks

[9dreizig]

Thankyou!!!!

[beepbeep]

You are 7 years late

Changing 930 dump-gaskets, pictures galore

[Miguel Antonett]

Wow, that was entertaining. Definitely added to the to do list.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!

[slow&rusty]

Originally Posted by beepbeep

You are 7 years late

Changing 930 dump-gaskets, pictures galore

Story of my life! LOL...haha.

Great write-up, funny we took different paths to the same end goal.

Yasin

[NathanUK]

Nice pics.

[Miguel Antonett]

Do we need to take the air box apart and off the car to do this?

You both go different route: beepbeep takes more thingns apart but slow&rusty changes it removing ONLY the intercooler.

[Chuck Jones]

YASIN: Not only was your article and pictures informative, but I just got off the phone ordering the parts from Pelican....I've been annoyed by that clicking sound for two years now and your article and pictures have given me the incentive to take care of it.

I appreciate your time and effort....even if it was posted before....

Chuck

[slow&rusty]

Originally Posted by Miguel Antonett

Do we need to take the air box apart and off the car to do this?

You both go different route: beepbeep takes more thingns apart but slow&rusty changes it removing ONLY the intercooler.

Miguel - You do not have to take the air box apart and off the car. Yes I went a different route to beepbeep and I feel my way is simpler in that less physical parts have to be removed. My belief is to keep it as simple as possible.

Originally Posted by Chuck Jones

YASIN: Not only was your article and pictures informative, but I just got off the phone ordering the parts from Pelican....I've been annoyed by that clicking sound for two years now and your article and pictures have given me the incentive to take care of it.

I appreciate your time and effort....even if it was posted before....

Chuck

Chuck - Great stuff, glad to help! I left you a reply on Rennlist as well.

My best- Yasin

[9dreizig]

Slow&Rusty, aside from the 'clicking' what other symptoms would a bad seal exhibit ? Breaking up ? running rich?

[slow&rusty]

Originally Posted by 9dreizig

Slow&Rusty, aside from the 'clicking' what other symptoms would a bad seal exhibit ? Breaking up ? running rich?

The only thing that comes to mind is low on power(boost leak), running erraticaly etc, as the piston hammering the cover, could eventually cause a small break in the seal between the cover and the housing, plus damage to the piston itself. This would have to be over quite a long period of time mind you.

Yasin

[equality72521]

That's one of the things I'm fixing while the engine is out.

[911st]

Great wright up with pics!

Originally Posted by slow&rusty

...Hi Gang - Well I wanted to write-up a quick Tech Article on getting rid of the inevitable "clicking" sound when you blip the throttle of your 930 ...

I know this is an old thread but wonder if anyone can confirm if the compressor bypass valve is open at idle or just on overrun when vac is much higher.

From the above is sounds like idle vac might be holding it open and it closes when the throttle is blipped?

Is this click also heard when accelerating from cruse?

Thanks if anyone can tell me how this system functions off idle and from cruse.

[slow&rusty]

Originally Posted by 911st

Great wright up with pics!



I know this is an old thread but wonder if anyone can confirm if the compressor bypass valve is open at idle or just on overrun when vac is much higher.

From the above is sounds like idle vac might be holding it open and it closes when the throttle is blipped?

Is this click also heard when accelerating from cruse?

Thanks if anyone can tell me how this system functions off idle and from cruse.

I am thinking the valve would not be open at idle, as the clicking is heard with the throttle is pressed...but feel free to prove me otherwise.

The clicking would be hard to hear with the car moving...my car is on the loud side...but makes sense it will be audible.
Yasin

[911st]

Yasin.

Thx for the input.

I guess I was thinking if it was open at idle, when the throttle is blipped vac goes away and the spring would push it closed . That might make the clicking sound.

The spring tension would determine how much vacuum it would take to pull open the piston.

[87slantnose]

Thank you for the information, Would anyone know the torque specifications for the intercooler bolts and BOV nuts for the reassembly?

[mooney265]

I took apart my KKK BOV this past weekend. Sorry, no pics. Mine had begun "clanging under decel/accel."

Was wondering what I should use to lubricate the piston? Any suggestions??

Thanks!!

[j930]

on my 84 930 i don't see that area? i have not pulled the intercooler yet but by the angles of the photos i cant see that part? would my engine be different?

[sck007]

Great write up and I Like all those shiny fasteners!