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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro
Posts: 219
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FYI on using 91 P&C on pre 91 3.3
As part of my rebuild, I purchased a set of the 91-92 fully finned P&C kits that were on ebay (the seller is local to me so I picked them up).
First, the engine tin needed to be trimmed a bit in order to fit as close to the cylinders as it did on the stock cylinders. Even though it may fit w/o trimming, Id expect that they were designed to work at a specific distance from the cylinder, so I trimmed them to maintain this distance. But, the REAL problem surfaced when I was completing final assembly - I turned the motor over by hand a few revolutions to make sure all was OK, and I started to pat myself on the back as Inoticed how smooth and easy it turned over. I quickly realized that even 7:1 will have noticable compression, and I had a big problem. ![]() The 91 cylinders have a 2.5mm lip on the top that seats in the head. Unfortunately, the 87 heads have a corresponding 3mm deep seat - the stock 87 cylinders have a 3mm lip. 0.5mm of 'open space' doesn't do well for maintaining compression, so the motor is back apart for the ~$7 0.5mm sealing rings on the 91-92 motor. I did ask questions about using these and this never came up, but it's still phooey on me for not measuring things. A search of several lists' archieves resulted in one post from 2004 or so with a similar issue, but again for some reason the searches I did before I assembled the motor didn't reveal this issue. Hopefully any others who bought these will not do the double assembly I'm into now...... Pat K 87 930 |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Cheraw, SC
Posts: 811
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Don't feel so bad... The first time I installed the C2 turbo cylinders I didn't know about the o-ring that goes at the base of the cylinder...
I got the engine assembled, was happy, fired it up, and it leaked like crazy. I had to pull it all back apart just to install those o-rings.... Brian
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Brian Keith Smith |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Cheraw, SC
Posts: 811
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And yes, the original tin fits without modification...
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Brian Keith Smith |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro
Posts: 219
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Quote:
Pat K 87 930 |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Cheraw, SC
Posts: 811
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the good news is you don't need to separate the heads from the cam towers. Just turn the engine over to TDC and remove the head stud nuts.
Brian
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Brian Keith Smith |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro
Posts: 219
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That is exactly what I've done....
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,563
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The 3.3L C2T's use a 0.5mm head sealing gasket. That's what I use in my build. It provides better sealing at higher boost pressures <= 1.4bar.
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Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition ![]() |
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A fellow Pelacanite
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Any pics guys ?
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG. Fitting - New service kit. Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head. 1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods. Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit. http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg |
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