Heat shield quest

[bcoats]

removed lower valence and heat shield, kind of like it without them, do i need the heat shield or will paint start to bubble and flake?

[Rory Mckenna]

There has to be a way to remove it and get something lighter.... or simply remove it. I have seen guys with out the it.. and there doesn't seem to be any issues with paint.. but maybe over time it will cause problems.. not sure..

[Rory Mckenna]

..

[spuggy]

PO told me that the turbo melted the rubber bumperette on the stock bumper with no heat shield. He fitted an FG Ruf bumper cap with extra holes on the turbo side. That was OK with a small muffler.

I fitted a factory muffler because those noise levels are very noticable (and illegal) where I live right now, but now I notice the license plate is discoloring from the heat - because there's not much air space around the muffler, I'd guess.

I've also noted license plate light wires completely melted and fused together. Oddly, not where they run really close to the muffler in the bumper cap, but a good 6-8 inches from the end cap on the factory muffler. Guess that must get the hottest...

It's not happened again since I repaired it, might all have been done on the dyno run...

I'm kind of pinning my hopes on Rarly's latest passenger-side exiting muffler - if that can be made to fall somewhere between an open pipe you can roll a baseball through and the factory muffler noise-wise and allow better airflow so stuff doesn't cook back there, I'll be happy. The fact it's lighter and looks great is just gravy....

My guess would be that you'll need the heat shield if you re-fit the valance, if you're running a stock muffler or one that's tight on the panel. I'd fit one in the interim if I had one...

[bcoats]

thanks for the feedback, better safe than sorry I guess, going back on tonight

[RarlyL8]

There are a few variables that will affect overheating your valance. Driving habits (street vs track), muffler distance from valance (air gap), A/F ratios (can create a VERY hot exhaust temp when not optimal), modifcations and HP (more HP = more heat), turbo (some run hotter than others).

I've been running a F/G bumper for years with no issues. I have never run a heat shield with any of the bumpers I've used. No problems. I have also used a bazzilion different mufflers (go figure).
The common factors in all that I have experienced is (1) large air gap, (2) proper A/F ratios, (3) very little track use, (4) relatively low HP at less than 350 to the wheels, K27-7200 turbo.

No guarantee that this will 100% work for you but it adds to the data.

[bcoats]

Thanks Brian, very helpful as always

[onboost]

I've seen some Turbos that have the heat issues and some that don't as per Rarly's comments..

If that's an issue for your car, a heat shield should be pretty easy to make-up if you need one.

As for the weight, dont see why that would be an issue, even the stock one is pretty light.

[Akila]

Oooo... interesting, maybe thats why I am having trouble with my reverse lights & license plate lights. Could be the wires have fused! I know I have a heat problem by the Bumper guard starting to melt as well as the discoloration of the White on the bumper. My Muffler has very little air gap to the valance.

[David]

Here's what I did:

Turbo heat shield questions

[1974carrera]

David, that looks pretty neat...how has it worked out?

[David]

Originally Posted by 1974carrera

David, that looks pretty neat...how has it worked out?

The paint hasn't bubbled so I'd call it a success but:

Since then I've replaced my B&B wrapped muffler with a very light unwrapped one with no problem. The stick on heat shield stuff that I got from Summit or Jegs is starting to come off. I cleaned the bumper well before installing it, but there's plenty or dirt and air flow back there to cause it to come loose. Maybe some super sticky double sided tape will keep it on better.

[RarlyL8]

I used that aluminized heat sheet on my F/G bumper as well. It worked fine for a year, until I took it to the track. On a 30*F day it came off after the second session. The heat was too much for the sticky glue in a spray can that held it on. I removed that nasty mess and left it off for the rest of the day. My bumper got hot but remained undamaged. Track work is brutal on a car.

[DonE]

I've wrapped the hot side of the turbo in turbo-wrap from Summit. In addition, I took a piece of sheet metal (actually stainless, but any metal would work) and worked it around the turbo-wrap. So, instead of shielding the bumper and other parts, I wrapped the turbo. My rear bumper is a fiberglass race bumper (I think it weighs about 2 lbs - literally), so heat management is crucial. Ironically, neither the tail pipe nor muffler get hot enough to effect the bumper.

I also run a GT35r with no center cooling, and the hot side is wrapped to keep the heat where it belongs.