I found a replacement to the factory hard oil line which still allows me to keep the stock heat exchangers, from Chuck at Elephant Racing. The line proceeds towards the front of the car from the case and wraps around the top of the transmission so it doesn't interfere with the RHS heat exchanger cross over pipe.

Made a little bit more progress. We got the hard oil line hard oil line threaded on the bottom of the case, but when we bolted the opposing end into the sheet metal the, the hose broke right by the nut connecting to the crankcase. Chuck at Elephant Racing was kind enough to agree to replace the line, and that should be in on Wednesday. The BEGI rrfpr is mounted. I'm going to have a Y adapter connecting to the IN on the rrfpr with one connection to the fuel rail and the other to an elbow which will mount the fuel pressure gauge. It should look like this when it's complete:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219116812.jpg

We'll get the distributor installed and timed and the Andial splitter wired tomorrow night. If all goes well with the replacement hard oil line and the Motronic chip arrives by Friday, we might her started over the weekend! I ordered the dual read Andial air temp gauge per Craig's suggestion. More to come soon :cool:

Hi
Just scanned through the posts from the beginning. What a great project and progress.
Jesper

I forgot to mention this in the above post... HUGE thanks to Jerry for all his help with the fittings and install questions. Thanks!

We made some great progress last night. The replacement hard oil line from Elephant Racing worked perfectly. It looked like the one that broke was almost an inch shorter on the bend going into the case. I guess it was the bad one in the batch. The rrfpr is fully installed. The distributor is in and timed. The only thing left to do in the engine is mount the turbo, intake piping, and coils. Then we'll have to chase down the "black positive lead" going to the coils which is necessary to cut to wire the Andial splitter (proven difficult to find so far).

I really like how the like mounting of the BEGI rrfpr turned out:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219328517.jpg


Here's a pic of the J pipe we had to modify to get around the twin plug distributor:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219328577.jpg

I have no idea how true it is but I've read that it's not a good idea to leave a fuel pressure gauge permanently connected as they can leak. I've never seen a pressure gauge leak water though and I've seen plenty, both old and new.

I believe today is the day we turn the key. Any last words of advice?

the anticipation is worse than anything. get the fuel pressure right before you put it in gear.

have fun

edit,, well I guess as much as you can with the gauge in the back. Watching afr will will be a give away that the rr reg is working.

I am not an expert but if you could disconect the fuel pump and spin the motor up w the starter a bit to get some oil through the motor it probably would not hurt.

Well, we're much closer than when the day began not quite there. Should wrap things up sometime next week. Here some pics of today's progress:

Wires in yellow are for the Andial air temp gauge, wire circled in red is for the Innovate LM-1, and wires circled in blue are for running the Andial splitter.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219546707.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219546796.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219546816.jpg

Hey guys, quick question for you. My turbo oil return is looks like it may rub against the turbo manifold and/or the LHS heat exchanger. Is there some material I could wrap the return hose in to protect it from wear?

yepsame thing happened to me...
 

so I bought some sheilding wrap that is rated at something like 2000 degrees, it burnt away straight away! So I left it without, one year on and it has caused no problems without any protection, it's about 3mm away from one of the pipes.

That's too bad spence. I'm pretty certain that mine may rub against the turbo manifold. Is there some high heat rubber that could withstand that?

Those of you who have done Carrera turbo conversions: did you leave the hose in place which connects from the back of the rubber elbow on the throttle body to the air valve on the oil tank? Jerry, I noticed in your thread that you removed the hosed, capped the end at the rubber elbow, and installed a filter at the air valve. Is there any reason you shouldn't leave this line in tact?

Andy if you leave it in place you will pressurize (with boost) your oil tank, could be a big mess...

there's also a couple of small ones to the oil tank you need to block off too.

Yes, Spence is right- that is not a good way to boost your oil pressure... :D

without thinking about it too hard, yes, you'd press your oil tank.

Thanks for the tip guys.

Spence, I'm not sure which you are referring to. Could you describe where they connect? I know there are 2 large holes next to the oil filler cap (one of which is for the hose which connects to the back of the rubber elbow as referred to above). I think the other one connects to the top of the crankcase.

Just to clarify, I was wondering if you guys could point out which nipples need to be capped for my setup. From what I can see, there are 4 nipples which are near the oil tank.

These two are directly next to the yellow filler cap. Please confirm that the one on the top was connected to the rubber elbow on the throttle body. This is the one that I need to put a separate filter on. The lower nipple connects to the top of the crankcase and should remain in place:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219781776.jpg


These two nipples are located above the yellow filler cap to the left. I forgot to take pictures of these in the tear down. Do they need to be connected to vacuum or should they be capped:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219781891.jpg

lol!

Hey Andy,

I capped both of those I'm quite sure, nothing on the oil tank is connected to vacuum. Does this help? I haven't seen my car for months so I need my memory refreshed but I know I capped off everything to do with the oil tank and added an oil breather on the large pipe that did connect to the back of that boot between the AFM and TB. It also leaves you with a big hole at the back of that boot to block off which was another reason I ditched it.

I hope this helps, it was the only thing that threw me ith the conversion, Jerry helped me out there god love him.