Great work Andy, make sure you get a block off for the shroud on the left hand side like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-911-LEFT-SIDE-BLOCK-OFF-FOR-ENGINE-SHROUD_W0QQitemZ150277281649QQihZ005QQcategoryZ460 98QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

only $40 from this dude, I think they normally run at about $70.

How did you cut the whole for your turbo through the engine tin? I still need to do that. Do you have an airfilter yet? I'm using a K&N that mounts directly onto the turbo, been very happy with it, very snug fit. I haven't found it to get overly dirty under there either, I kep it fresh with the cleaning kit that makes cleaning them a breeze.

Thanks for the link, Spence. I was just looking into that this morning, and it's definitely cheaper than Pelican :) I bought a 2.5" bi-metal hole saw bit from Home Depot yesterday for like $15. It drilled out with relative ease but a bit of shrapnel :( I'm going to be running a K&N filter which Ben from M&K supplied. I purchased a backdated LHS engine tin with a 2.5" hole for the heater hose. I'm going to route some tubing from the turbo around to that hole and into the engine bay. I want to keep it away from the water/dirt/whatever :)

Les, I have a carrera but I've swapped the 3.2 L P's & C's for 3.3 L. The DME requires feedback from the O2 sensor (as I understand it) to modulate the air/fuel mixture. By this it seems that I SHOULD leave the stock O2 sensor in even while tuning. Jerry, Ben, or Spece, do you guys have any thoughts?

I disconnected my stock 02 sensor a while ago Andy, I don't use one at all. I found it ran much smoother without.

I need to buy an LM1, after I got my car up and running with the turbo I've hardly had anytime to drive or fiddle with it. My next move is a MAPECU to get rid of the afm which will flow air a lot better and allow me to fine tune the AFRs, I take it you're running a BEGI to do the tuning.

Either way, even if you have to disconnect the O2 sensor for tuning, which I imagine you wouldn't, you can just unplug it. The LM1 should be after the turbo, did Ben weld in a mount for one?

Interesting. I'll try tuning it without the stock sensor installed. Yes, Ben did weld a bung on for me.... Ben's the man. And, yes, I'm using the BEGI - exact same as Jerry's.

I think you can use a jumper on the 5 pin plug in the engine compartment to shut down the O2 sensor, When I put in my SW chip you had to jump it when setting the idle.

I would just unplug for setting idle, and leave it, unless you think you need it.
I think at 32-34 psi idle fuel pressure, and AFM somewhere around seven turns from full closed,
O2, ICV unplugged, should be the best starting point and be close to 14/1 afr

It takes a couple days to get idle/on boost/full boost fuel pressure right. And then afm/idle rpm right.
drive, log, download, redo stuff. fourth and fith on the freeway give you enough time to see full boost AFR and adjust on the side of the road without any tools.

verify no air leaks before you even start it, that will leave some of the guessing out.

what boost are going to start out with?

.7 BAR initially. I'm going to see if I can shoehorn this in between the back of the fan housing and the throttle body shortly afterwards:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217515853.jpg


It's 18x12x3, and it's a cheap experiment.

Andy, that would be nasty if you could get that in there under the stock decklid.

Andy,

If you can get at deck opening and so it gets good air flow not only through it but over the end tanks it would be nice.

How much was it and where did it come from?

Sleezy-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290248487642

$40 + shipping. I'm not going to be running the engine heat blower, so what I'm thinking about doing is redirecting the LHS air to flow across the intercooler. I'll just have to see how much room I have to play with once everything is in.

If you are talking about using the defroster blower for the IC I do not think that would work and you would be robbing air you need to cool the cylinders.

Putting the IC and the location of the defrost blower is ok. If you want to keep your ac you could adapt an 930 condensor.

I would only be taking the air from the LHS of the engine that would normally go down to the heat exchangers. I'll experiment with it by measuring the intake temp and monitoring the oil temp.

remember you'll need to swing it around to the air flow meter before the throttle body, this is the reason I'm using a MAP2ECU, to simplify the intake and get rid of the afm. You can mount the AFM before the turbo, it might free up some room for your project.

Andy,

That LHS air that goes down to the heat exchanger will be diverted from cooling the motor.

When it is cold outside you can afford to use some of that air for the heating / defrost system.

It is ok to use the air being pulled into the motor compartment before it gets to the cooling fan.

There is a lot of air movement around the motor compartment so even if it is not in the direct air flow it will be useful. If you need more cooling at idle because you are getting heat soaked, then add an electric fan to your IC.

Alternate you could dry to duct the intake grill. Porsche dose that on there 930's so there will be balanced air velocity on the core and into the intake.

My opinion.

Well, the engine made it back into the car. We need to do a bit of fabricating to get the turbo to fit properly. There's not as much room in between the J pipe and the engine tin as I thought there would be. We're going to take off about 3 inches from the bend of the pipe to move it closer to the hole that we've drilled. I need to fabricate a pipe to route from the turbo air filter inlet through the LHS heater hose hole in the engine tin and into the engine compartment. I also need to pick up some extra flanges for the wastegate since the heat fins are hitting the J pipe and preventing it from bolting on properly. More to come next week!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217563124.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217563136.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217563146.jpg

Looking good you're really coming along Andy!

Can I advise you not to cut the J-Pipe, the turbo doesn't line up with the hole in the rear engine tin that was used for the blower. You're better off getting a 930 rear tin and using that, I should have told you this earlier. If you change your turbo position your muffler most likely wont come out at the correct angle and if in the future you decide on a different system muffler or headers, you wont be able to use an off the shelf unit with your set up...

You can still drive the car without the rear tin so remove it and continue putting it together and install the 930 tin when it arrives.

My 2c

+1

Could someone post a picture of the 930 rear engine tin? Anyone have any for sale? I understand your point about switching out headers down the road. In the present I believe that I'd be ok with the muffler tail pipe position because I have about a 3" adapter which Ben put together to fit the turbo to the muffler. That should just about offset the amount of we'd take off of the J pipe. I'd rather do it your way and not chop anything up, but I'm just concerned that we may have to because of the limited clearance with the 964 dizzy.