Another issue I'd like your opinion on... The fitting I have which attaches the oil return line from the turbo to the oil drain hole is obstructed by the hard oil line. Check this out:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217606159.jpg

I'm assuming that angle would be problematic for a gravity drain, but I wanted to hear your thoughts before I bought a different hard oil line.

I have seen people feed the return into the chain side cover which I kind of like as it is higher than the bottom of the case and it drains. The bottom of the case seems to work but I would be suspect that with shut off oil may be left in the oil line and may coke up. Be sure to let it idle after a run to get as much oil sucked out of the case as possable.

Best of luck.

I've heard of several guys run it this way w/o issue. I've also read that returning it to the chain housing results in higher operating temperature. I can create my own braided steel line, but I'd rather not go thru the hassle if this is a non-issue.

i sent you a note, but if it was me, unless the backdate oil line doesn't work for sure, I'd bend the old line.
that would be an experiment though.

Can cover option
 

This is how my brother did it. Just for reference. Hope everything works out for you.

Bryan


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217610719.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217610739.jpg

That engine looks amazing! How did he get that finish on the alloy, soda blasting?

Andy, you can get a braided oil line quite cheaply from goingsuperfast or maybe blownsix one or the other. I think it's fouling it more than it should and it is something you want to get right... I backdated my oil lines, feeding it into the case has worked well for me and many others.

(ignore that shield wrap on the oil line, I removed it)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217620151.jpg

Response
 

Spence88mph

Let's just say he should own stock in Mother's. He used the Mothers Aluminum polish by hand for several hours.... he suffers from OCD, can you tell?

Bryan

I asked about boost Andy, because I wanted to say that .7 should be 400 easy. My car was dynoed again in Europe, got 371 @ .6 pretty much the same as I did earlier this year.
Have you thought about the rear squatting down 3 or 4 inches? lol, or did you change the bars?

Hello - so with this setup you completely eliminate the drip tank? This looks very neat an tidy for sure!

What is the "backdated" oil line and why did you need to use it?

Ronnie

Ronnie,

no drip tank needed but please note this is a ball bearing type turbo that requires considerably less oiling that the KKK turbos, i dont know if this would work with a KKK. I backdated the oil line as my headers fouled the hard oil line.

Hello and thanks for the clarification! I am in the process of installing a K27 HyFlow (among other things - including an engine overhaul) and using the OEM drip tank has been somewhat of a problem so your setup got me "wide eyed" . . . wonder if anyone has done this with a KKK turbo ???

R

Ronnie, I have an aftermarket drip tank that came with my headers for a KKK style turbo, it's way smaller than the stock drop tank and very nicely made in shiny 321 stainless, if you PM my your address I'll send it to you when I get back from the states, I don't need it.

You can just see the backdated oil line in the picture. It's the one that goes under the bellhousing. The stock line came forward and is in the way when you change to shorter headers.
To do the backdate you have to buy two lines. My car has an aftermarket braided flexible line.

I'm a little confused. I see one line going from the turbo to the case. You said "two". What am I missing?

the other line connects to the hard line that goes under the case and then goes to the thermostat in the wheel well

We determined that even with the engine tin completely out, that there was no way of wrapping the charge pipe around the dual headed distributor. We removed small sections from the J pipe until we got the fitment just right. After each time we made a cut, we bolted everything back up to see how it was fitting. In the end we took off about three inches and made sure that the muffler comes out in the correct location. I'll post some pics later on. Tonight, we'll be connecting the hoses and wires. Over the weekend, I'm hoping to fit the intercooler under the lid. I've got a few different ideas which may work, but it's going to be tight. I'm determined to fit one in there!

More to come...

Great! Sounds like you worked it out and in a way where a stock 930 muffler can be used.

Again, if you have a copy of Bruce Anderson's book there is a pic of the charge pipe RUF did for use on their C2 conversion. It goes up, turns 90 deg, then 180 deg, then 90 deg if I remember correctly. However, I am not sure if he put the the turbo in the stock location.

For those that follow, RUF ran twin injectors but did not seem to find it necessary to run twin plugs on his ground braking twin turbo Yellow Bird that was based on the Carrera 3.2.

I thought that the charge pipes came up the sides of the motor on the Yellowbird. I'll have to check that out.

You are correct on the twin turbo 3.2.

The RUF single turbo conversion for the C2 3.6 had to snake around the existing twin plug distribuitor but I am not sure if he put the turbo in the same place as the 930.

Keep up the good work.

Ahhh - gotcha. And thanks!