Top End Rebuild and Turbo Project underway
 

Hello all,

First, I would like to thank all of you for your help and advice over the past few months in leading up to this project. I'd particularly like to thank Ben (mb911) and Kris (930gt-40r) for their time on the phone and indispensible direction.

I bought my '87 Carrera last June (about 60k miles at the time) knowing that it would need a valve job at some point. I found out in the fall that the time had come sooner than expected so I parked it with plans to have my buddy mechanic help me with it over the winter. Spring is soon approaching and this project has taken on a bit of a larger scope. I initially just wanted to make a few upgrades in preparation for turbo charging sometime down the road, but ... you get the idea :)

So here's the plan... Once the heads, cylinders, and pistons are out, they will be sent to Supertec. Henry is going to make sure that everything is within spec for the rebuild (crossing my fingers that there are no surprises). Pending a positive report, the valve job and twin plugging of the heads will be performed. I'm not going to complete the twin plugging just yet, but I figured while I'm in there I might as well for an extra couple hundred bucks. Henry's also going to recondition the cylinders and machine the pistons to an 8.5:1 compression ratio with consideration to the twin plugging. I may also have him port the heads... still have to talk to him about that. Once everything gets back to me, the top end will be reassembled with Supertec head studs. I'll also be performing a complete clutch job.

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*This section has been updated as things have changed*

I'm not using the stock cylinders & pistons but rather a set a 3.3L mahle's with 8.0:1 compression. Due to the lower compression, we're going to increase the boost to .7 BAR. And since we were able to remove the rods w/o cracking the case, we're installing ARP rod bolts.

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Now for the turbo... I'm sticking with my stock Carrera heat exchangers and Henry is going to hook me up with a J pipe. I'm going to be running a Precision SC6162SPR (.63 A/R, T3 v-band, E compressor housing, Ball Bearing) from TD Autowerkes, Tial 46 WG mm from Kris, Tial 50mm BOV from TD Autowerkes, M&K Exhaust from Ben, Stage 1 ECU chip from Protomotive, BEGI rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and I'll be tuning wtih an Innovate LM-1 (still haven't purchased). I'm hoping to make 300+ bhp at .5 Bar. Hopefully after this setup is tuned, the boost will come in pretty early.

Today was the ground breaking ceremony. My friend Doug and I dropped the engine and detached it from the transmission. It only took 2.5 hours to get her out thanks to Doug's expertise! Here are some pictures showing today's progress:

Before:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204408831.jpg


Dropping:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204408867.jpg



Tranny detached:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204408902.jpg


Up on the table:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204408924.jpg


The only mishap from today was when I intended to remove the air conditioning compressor adjustment bolt but ended up tightening it and breaking off a small piece of the compressor :( Doug is going to weld it, so no reason for tears. On a positive note, I found out that I have a limited slip differential :) We didn't have a lift so Doug and I ended up lifting the engine up onto the table... I couldn't believe we actually got it up there. Anybody have any idea how much it weighs?

We'll be working again on Tuesday and Thursday night this week. Hopefully there will be a shipment of heads, cylinders, and pistons going out to Supertec on Friday. I'll continue to post progress here.

Cool project
 

Hi
Sounds like my kind of project. Please keep the photos coming. I really like the muffler on your carrera, what type is that. My "knowledge" doesn't allow me to interpret from your signature.
Just what I am hoping to do some day in the future...
Best of luck
Jesper

Hi Jesper,

I replaced my stock cat and muffler with a cat bypass and muffler bypass from a comany called Fabspeed. Our host sells the cat bypass. The combo was AMAZING! It sounds really gutteral and muscle-like until about 4500 rpm. After that, it morphs into something like a heavenly scream. It truly sounds like a race car. Another benefit is the weight reduction. The stock exhaust is HEAVY. I bet you shave off at least 30 pounds with this setup. Sadly, I can't use it once turbo charged, so I've already sold them.

Very informative...keep it coming
 

Andy,

Very motivational in the sense of that's where I am heading too...if only I can find someone in S. florida with that kind of expertise...anybody...anybody?(lol)

keep it up,

Rob

andy ,

I delted your VM yesterday before hearing it by mistake. Give me a call again when you have a chance

I'll give you a call this afternoon. Thanks!

Der Polizei,
How did you find out you had a LSD. I would like to find out about my tranny.

Les

I am going to be following this closely. I'm seeing this project for my 84 in the future.:D

Les,

Doug explained it to me at the time, but I'm not too savvy mechanically :/ I believe what he said is that if you turn one of the side differential gears in a forward direction and can simultaneously turn the other differential gear in a rearward direction, that it's an LSD. I'll ask him to explain it one more time and maybe take a pic. Please jump in to correct me if I've butchered this!

Hmm...I believe it's other way around.

1. Lift both rear wheels.
2. Pop the shifter in neutral.
3. Turn one wheel, if other spins in same direction, you have LSD. If it turns in opposite direction (or stands still), you have no LSD or worn LSD.

You can also check by holding one wheel and turning the other. You should need at least 20Nm torque preload to overcome the clutch if LSD is installed.

yes that is correct

Thanx Beep!

I have always wondered if I had a LSD in mine. Is there someplace you can run the VIN to find out how the car was equipped?

Les

I've heard that you can contact Porsche AG for the original window sticker which lists all of the options...

I belive they called it M220 option. There should be a option code somewhere on the car. Otherwise the tranny's usually had a sticker on them saying "Sperrdifferenzial".

But the easiest way if just by popping in neutral, locking one wheel and trying to turn the other. If it drags, there are clutches in-between. Unfortunatly, many LSD:s are getting old nowadays (as cars are old) and are in dire need of rebuild...

Hmm,
I don't know Bumpkis about Diffs. I had my tranny redone and I believe he said he placed the clutches. Also, when I got the tranny back. When I turned right or left at a stop light or corner, the tires would chirp hard everytime. I was told I needed to just drive it some.

Les

Day 2
 

Good progress tonight. We tore down all of the engine peripherals and we're just about ready to remove the left cam tower to get at the heads. Looks like we should be able to get the heads and cylinders shipped out by Friday. Here are some pics from tonight:



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204687974.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204687992.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204688007.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204688025.jpg


Most of the parts should be arriving within the next few days. More pics to come.

Dude! Whats up with your engine?

It's pretty clean looking!

You hadn't met the requisite 1" of oil grunge requirement for a rebuild!

I bought some of that Hyper expensive Brake caliper paint from Eagle Day and Painted my Shroud. If you look at it from 3" away, it looks like I painted it with a Broom!! But from a foot out with all the goodies on the motor it looks awesome. Also, the paint is hard as nails. Real Pricey though, just a thought.

Thanks! The engine only has 66k on the odo, so that might have something to do with the relative cleanliness ;) I would like paint the shroud and fan, but I'd like to keep it inexpensive as I'm already on the high end of my budget.

Here ya go, I believe you can get it cheaper if you look around.

http://www.eagleday.com/brcapaki.html

Day 3
 

The engine is now torn down as far as we're going during this project. There was a considerable amount of buildup found on the valves and piston surfaces as suspected. Everything else seems to be in great condition, so I'm very pleased thus far! I initially thought that we weren't going to be able to remove the rods without cracking the case, but we ended up getting them out. I'm going to install some ARP rod bolts for some added insurance. Here are some pics from tonight:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204868344.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204868361.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204868376.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204868391.jpg


I've got a VERY heavy box packed up in my garage and ready to be shipped to Supertec tomorrow. I'll be cleaning parts and doing some odd end maintenance in the coming weeks. My guess is that it will be closer to a month before the parts get back here... And now for the long wait :(

Looks like a fun project.

75 lb. package sent this morning. The cost on that alone is enough to make your eyes water :(

Andy those look like alusil cylinders but hard to tell but pretty sure:( They should be fine but not as desirable as the nikisil

What is the downside to alusil?

do me a favor and stick a magnet on the bottom row of studs.. Let me know if they stick. you can also try sticking them to the cylinder walls if it sticks that a good sign if not then you know you have aluisil.. I did on my first setup so it works

The magnet does not stick to the bottom studs, but it does to the top. The cylinders have already been shipped already. I guess i've got Alusil :confused:

Doesn't that mean Dilavar lower studs and steel uppers? The magnet would need to stick to the cylinder itself to be Nikasil. If the magnet won't stick to the cylinder, it is Alusil.

Yup looks to be aluisil. Oh well

What is the downside of alusil (upside of nikasil)?

Aluisil typically does not stay round and wear faster the Nikasil.. Also nikasil will allow for replacement pistons while the aluisil will not

Most of the parts are here!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205383518.jpg

Andy, I don't see the support spacer and T-band clamp with your muffler. Give me or Ben a holler if those items were not included.

Is the support spacer the thing which separates the actual muffler from the tail pipe? If so, he did include it. There are a bunch of clamps, fasteners, and other goodies in that box. What function does the T-band clamp serve?

Andy, where is that shinney blue wastegate? Haha- looks like you are well on your way.

haha

I totally forgot! I was actually upset at myself cuz i got the whole thing laid out (like Christmas morning), put it away, and THEN realized I forgot to throw it in there... I even thought of saying "sorry Kris", but then I was like, "nahhh, he won't even notice."

The T-band clamp positions the support spacer where you want it and prevents movement once tight. It fits over the tailpipe so is a 3" diameter. If it is missing give me a call. I can also send you some pictures of how it looks when installed.

What is a ballpark figure on the turbo kit? I'm really considering saving for this and want a rough idea what I'm up against.

Materials alone and excluding what I'm spending on the top end rebuild and clutch....

New Turbo ~ 1100
Used WG ~ 200
New BOV ~ 200
New Exhaust with flanges ~ 700
New Intake piping ~ 100
Used Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator ~ 100
Reconditioned J pipe ~ 200
Oil lines and stuff ~ 100
New Protomotive Ecu ~ 270
Innovate Lm-1 ~ 250

Total is approximately $3000. Always budget an extra bit for shipping and miscellaneous stuff. The real kicker is all the internal work I'm doing on the engine to make it safe for a turbo.

I appreciate the ballpark. I see myself doing almost the same thing as you when the time comes, engine mods as well as turbo. Time to start saving the pennies...:rolleyes:.

Here is a picture of the spacer and clamp in place on another muffler. This arrangement locks the tailpipe in place and reduces vibration.
You do not need the upper clamp for your application.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205457731.jpg