Yes, Ben provided that spacer for me. Thanks!

I got some bad news from Henry last night. I guess the box of engine components was damaged en route. UPS repackaged it and just kept it going to California. When Henry opened the box, he found 3 damaged heads and 2 damaged cylinders. I insured the box for $3,000, and I've already begun the claim process with UPS. This is so irritating, but hopefully it will somehow benefit me as I try to acquire nikasil cylinders. I should know more by Tuesday.

Damn that sux. Shipping is the biggest concern I have. Everything is packed like it will drug behind the truck instead of riding in it. They just don't care. UPS is the worst; I simply won't use them unless I have no choice. Their policy is to never pay a claim.

l recommend using the UPS authorized shipping centers, they handle the insurance claims for you and really go to bat, l`ve had nothing but silky smooth refunds when l use those guys:)..l hope it all works out to your advantage in the end.

Hey Andy,

Great project. Sorry to hear about your UPS misfortune...that really does suck. Pretty much the kind of luck I have. I'm currently in the middle of replacing my pistons and cylinder on my turbo due to accidental overboost. My ignorance being the cause of the overboost. I screwed up one of the pistons and now I must purchase a complete set..."Just shoot me"...

Good luck with finding the cylinders, the Mahle Nikasil's are quite pricey. Unfortunately, from what I've discovered (and I could be wrong) they only sell the complete set (pistons and cylinders)...I wanted to cry when I found out; however, I'm a big boy...:D

Good luck and keep up the great work...

Jitters

Thanks, Jitters. I haven't decided yet about the cylinders/pistons as I'm waiting to hear the final judgment from UPS. I spoke with Ken (one of Henry's co-workers), and he indicated that the damage to the cylinder heads was mostly cosmetic and that it shouldn't have an adverse effect on performance/reliability. I was planning on replacing the p&c's with nikasil anyway.

The UPS inspector came by on Friday, and it preliminarily sounds like the issue is going to be taken up with the UPS store that finished packaging and sealing the box. Either way, things are sounding positive. I'm continuing to pray...

Since I'll be swapping out my cylinders & pistons for Nikasil, would there be any problem going from 3.2 to 3.4L? What adjustments would need to be made? I'm still aiming for a compression ratio of 8.5:1. Would anything with the fuel injection need to change? Is this a small enough jump that single plug ignition would still be ok?

Single plug would work fine, I would just make damn sure that I drilled the heads for it because it really sux to have to have to remove them just for getting them twin plugged. As far as the head goes, you might just need to have the outer edge cut a few mm larger to mate up to the cyls- I think thats about it. Are you doing the rods Andy? If it were me I would put the extra money into a good set of rods- If you ever run big power you will eventually blow them out and that wouldnt be fun. As far as the injection goes I dont think you have to worry about anything outside of tuning for it- what injectors are you running? I would think a good set of 550 cc would do fine for that.

Thanks for the reply, Kris. I'm definitely getting the heads drilled for twin plugs. I'm putting on ARP rod bolts, but I'm not doing anything with the rods. The bearings were inspected, and they look to be in excellent condition. I am planning on running stock Carrera fuel injectors with a BEGI rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Should that suffice or would I need to look into larger injectors?

I dont know- Im not sure how much they can handle- you may be safe for now with no intercooler and that fuel pressure regulator. But you may want to swap them when you do an intercooler because you will be pushing more boost and more air. I could be wrong though- you may actually need the injectors now.

I know that I'm ok with my stock injectors @ 3.2L with low boost, but I'm not sure if anything changes at a larger displacement.

they've been shown to be good to .7 bar
I couldn't tell you the duty cycle at .7 bar and 60+ psi though.
drove mine today at .7 for the first time, hard to tell the difference from .6

Things with UPS are still moving slowly. I've filed and been denied claims twice, and now I've filed a formal complaint against the owner of the UPS Store. We'll probably go to small claims court from here.

In the mean time, I've decided to move ahead with the project because it could be a long time (if ever) before I get money from them. I've purchased a set of 3.3L Mahle cylinders and pistons (8.0:1 compression). I have a few questions about putting everything together from here:

1. What size oil lines do I need to run to and from the turbo?
2. To run oil through the water ports on the turbo, is it just a matter of getting some sort of Y-adapter to run in conjunction with the oil lines running to the oil ports? If so, does anyone have a suggestion?
3. Is there supposed to be a connection made between the WG and the turbo? If so, what is it called/where can I get one?
4. Is there a connection which must be made coming off of the BOV?
5. Will I need any additional fuel lines to run the BEGI FMU (rising rate fuel pressure regulator)?
6. Does anyone have a suggestion of how to route the wire for the Innovate LM-1 coming out of the exhaust?
7. There is a place for an O2 sensor both on the J pipe (pre turbo) and on the muffler (post turbo). From what I've read, it's my understanding that it'd be better to hook the LM-1 bung sensor up to the muffler. Does anyone have a suggestion regarding what to use to plug the hole on the J-pipe?

Thanks for all of your help guys.

give me a call I can help you with most of this..

Andy,
1. If it is a ball bearing turbo, a -3 or -4 A/N will suffice for the feed and a -8 A/N from the oil collector at the bottom of the turbo.
2. Do not "T" off of the oil pressure line for the cooling jackets I dont care what anybody says, this is the WRONG way to do it. The reason being is that you create a pressure drop in the oiling system, I have seen 3 reputable Porsche shops do this and create very expensive knocking noises as a result. As for the right way- Either set up a little cooling system for the turbo (costly, but some do it) or find a way to pump oil to it without tapping the pressure side of your oiling system, and then dump it into the valve cover. You could do this by using a tilton fluid pump or some other pump that could take the heat.

As for the rest of the questions, give me a call as it is a lot to write and I am getting lazy...

Andy,

I have a garret GT30 and I just left the water jacket open following the advice of Merv (WydRyd), I know it sounds bizzare but it has worked for me for the past month or so and years on Merv's GT35 running a lot of boost. I'll probably get flamed by 930gt-40r and probably rightly so but I'm just saying it's working for me.

Anyway good luck with the project, I did mine about a month ago (with the help of these guys advice Merv and Jerry in particular) and I'm only running .5bar but man, it's a new car, you wont believe the difference and how much more fun it is to drive, it'll all be worth it!

HAHAHAHAHA...
Thats funny spence- I run them open too, I just dont say anything cuz I dont want to hear any B.S from ballbearing people saying how bad it is. I just tell Andy what not to do with the oil passages in order to protect the motor- a turbo is a wear item in my eyes where a motor is not. I am however in the process of setting up a cooling system for my PT-67 so it dont get totally killed.

Ive run my car at 30 psi with no problem (turbo or engine related)

Since the project is laughably past budget, I think I'll roll the dice and keep the water ports open. This may be something I can come back to in the fall/winter.

Ben, I'll be giving you a call.

Kris, do you know what BAR the spring is in my WG?

It should be a 1 Bar spring, or that is what it used to give me before when I had the K-27

A chap that races his 911 found that when he rigged up cooling to the ports it extended his Garretts life tremendously. No street use though, so you'll be fine.

l think you`re on track with your plan so far,well done:) As for bigger injectors you will be opening the door to spending more cash on the injectors,perhaps a pump and then a new chip, why bother? The fuel injector duty cycle is not an issue when running an FMU since they are being forced to flow waay more then intended with the increased fuel pressure.This FMU created high pressure allow the fuel to atomize better....it is a system that while not as elegant as a bespoke ECU,works incredibly well. l recommend no reinvention of the wheel on this one. As for the water jacketed turbo,and this is an issue of contention,you should be fine if it is getting the oil pressure/volume it needs. lf it were me running that turbo l would plumb a suitably sized tubing from the fan shroud high pressure area and blow through that little hole :) The C2`s used a similar air line to de-fog the tailights and ventilate the double distributor. Just another cool and clever little project to take on once the big stuff has been done.
As a side note l bought some sheet rubber from the Home Depot Garden center to shroud/seal my intercooler through the uber-cool carbon fiber 993 twin turbo tail l run. The intercooler worked extremely well without the skirt so it`s going to be chilly back there now.

cool thread.

Update
 

We got the rods cleaned up and installed with the new ARP rod bolts. The supertec head studs are in as well. The heads should be sent out next week, so things should be developing quickly by mid May.

I'm going to ask a question which I'm nearly certain I'm going to regret financially. Are there any other MUST replace parts that I should be installing? Here's a list of the odd ends that I have planned:

1. G50 Transmission Output Shaft Side Seal (2)
2. G50 Mainshaft Seal
3. Magnecor Wires Set including coil wire,
4. Engine Oil Sump Plate or Oil Tank Drain Plug Sealing Ring (2)
5. Rear Engine Lid Shock
6. Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor
7. Ignition Rotor
8. Distributor Cap
9. Fuel Filter
10. Alternator or Air Pump Belt
11. A/C Belt
12. Exhaust hardware

Thanks guys.

Any problems doing all the rods while still in the case? I've pulled one or two off before without splitting the case just to inspect, but I've never replaced all of them while still in the case, so how did it go?

It was patience-trying, but no real problems arose. Taking them out is pretty easy, but we did have to retrieve a few bolts when they fell to the bottom of the case. Getting them back on was a bit trickier and would have been seemingly impossible to do without 2 people. Doug delicately placed the rod on the crank, and while he was getting the nuts I held the rod in place from the opposite side of case with a screwdriver. It wasn't pretty, and a couple rods nearly slipped off.

Anyone?

How about the clutch fork pivot shaft and bearings? Or the release bearing & guide tube? Just a thought, they aren't must replace items, but they can catch you with your pants down upon reassembly...

Good luck, your thread makes me wish I had a g50 carrera even worse!!

I've got the updated clutch release fork for the g50, release bearing, and guide tube, but I'm not sure what the pivot shaft and bearings for the release fork are. Can you send me a link or a part number?

rut roe shaggy...
 

Which fork do you have? Is it the new style Porsche one w/ plastic bushings in it? Does your old one have bearings in it? If so, you'll have to modify the bell housing to use it. there is also an aftermarket shaft fix that is very popular as it requires no machining. I only used that style once. It seems fine. My old shop bought the tool from Porsche to update the bellhousing, and that is what we usually did. It's a pretty simple tool that works with a drill, you may find someone in your area that owns one willing to use it for you, if you've already bought the updated stuff... Let me know what you have and I'll be happy to dig up the related parts and tell you what's involved. I would bet there are countless threads/posts on this topic... Good luck

I bought the updated fork and operating shaft & bushing kit which requires no drilling. I think I should be good. Thanks for your help!

Andy, if you need more help with the Begi I have more time now. I know I didn't help too much in that PM.
just let me know

I really appreciate it, Jerry. Your timing is impeccable as I feel that I've just gotten up to speed enough on the Begi to ask some specific questions. I'll post them here so others can benefit.

1. I noticed on one of your threads that you picked up a 1/4" NPT to -6 fitting for the BEGi. Is this to make the connection between the fuel rail and the "in" on the BEGi? Are any special adapters necessary?
2. Did you simply relocate the stock fuel return line (to the tank) from the fuel rail to the "out" on the BEGi? Again, any special adapters needed?
3. Where can I get a check valve and line?
4. I read on BEGi's website and in a few of your posts that it's important to know the fuel pressure while adjusting the FMU. I am installing a boost/vacuum gauge, but I did not have plans to install a fuel pressure gauge. Is there a feasible way to measure the fuel pressure during the adjustment process w/o installing a gauge?

Ben supplied me the VDO boost/vacuum gauge which replaces the clock, and I had a hard time trying to get the clock out last night. Anyone have a suggestion?

The clock just pops out . pull it with your fingers.. then put the boost gauge in with the hose connected to it. the hose goes into the brake booster fitting and then the vacum source hose gets connected to that. pretty straight forward

I guess I'm weak :( I'll give it another whirl.

Try pushing it out from the luggage compartment. If you can't push the clock out for some reason then do another gauge. Once you have one gauge out you can remove the next one and so on from inside the car.

Hi,
Grab the edges of the clock and rock back and forth as you pull towards you a little. The first thing you need to do is brake the seal that the rubber has made over the years to the Vinyl of the dash. As soon as you get it to "move" a little, you can then start rocking back and forth as you pull and it will come right out. Once you get it out the first time, it gets "easy" to get it out. Actually pretty ingenious design, I like how they did that. Unfortunately when your car gets about 500HP, acceleration gets to the point where you are always tossing the gauges into your lap under WOT ;-)

Here is a picture to show what holds the clock in place....mine appeared to have a glue of some kind on the stepped rubber trim.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210275027.jpg

I carefully used a hooked tool pick to pull on the clock. Easy to damage the instrument bezel though.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210275108.jpg

I went with the 1/4" unit because I think it's closer to the actual din size of the fuel lines.
this will be long, I'll try to make it easy.

the begi gets installed on the return side of things after the stock FPR.
from the return fuel line at the bottom of that bracket, you'll see the gold and black fitting that goes straight to the return fitting at that bracket. PIC #1

http://i28.tinypic.com/5kr6lz.jpg

this line you custom make and connect to the IN side of the beggi, PIC#2 notice the sender for my pressure gauge and the brass 1/4 90 degree fitting.


http://i32.tinypic.com/2ufezk5.jpg

on the backside of the begi fuel comes out and gets connected to the stock returne line. I have another brass 1/4NPT fitting there and a 1/4NPT to -6 nipple, then a -6 to -6 swivel collar. And then a -6 to fuel line nipple (adapter). I don't have the size sitting here. this nipple and the black and gold thing are special batinc.net parts. all the rest can be had at many places. I used this set up because I had it sitting here left over from the other fuel line stuff. You can do it many ways.
http://i30.tinypic.com/n51uhj.jpg
the black line with the coiled protector thing is the stock line that goes down through the tin and to the tunnel line.
I used - six hose
(1) 120 degree -6 hose end
(1) -6 to 1/4" npt nipple, male to male, with 1/8" plug for a fuel sender
(2) 1/4" brass 90 degree fittings
(1) 1/4"npt to -6 nipple, male to male
(1) -6 swivel collar, female to female
(1) 14mm 1.5 X -6 union alloy $9.85 from batinc.net
(1) 14mm straight to -6 hose end $17.20 from batinc.net
those two things at the end are exactly how they are written on their receipt.
they call collars couplings and nipples, or hex nipples unions.

if you are doing your drain back to the case and need part numbers and stuff read this thread
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/325605-excuse-me-second.html

the test port on the drivers side rail has a cap on it. I drilled and tapped this port for a oil filled 1/8' npt pressure gauge. I used this to see better when adjusting from the engine side, easier to see than a gauge in the front. Here's a picture. Another pelican has it and hasn't returned it, otherwise I'd mail it to you, cause you need a spare to put back on when you're done.
http://i26.tinypic.com/2yxokg2.jpg

oh, if you want a check valve bat has those to, I have one that I didn't put on
a dash 6 to dash 6 male to male from them is $39. I was worried about flow rates, also just downline at the fuel pump is another check. And I put in a new pump that comes with a new check. So I figured it was over kill. I also wouldn't rely on these over the counter valves for fuel. They aren't too impressive coming from an oilfield trash worker.