Yes, Ben provided that spacer for me. Thanks!

I got some bad news from Henry last night. I guess the box of engine components was damaged en route. UPS repackaged it and just kept it going to California. When Henry opened the box, he found 3 damaged heads and 2 damaged cylinders. I insured the box for $3,000, and I've already begun the claim process with UPS. This is so irritating, but hopefully it will somehow benefit me as I try to acquire nikasil cylinders. I should know more by Tuesday.

Damn that sux. Shipping is the biggest concern I have. Everything is packed like it will drug behind the truck instead of riding in it. They just don't care. UPS is the worst; I simply won't use them unless I have no choice. Their policy is to never pay a claim.

l recommend using the UPS authorized shipping centers, they handle the insurance claims for you and really go to bat, l`ve had nothing but silky smooth refunds when l use those guys:)..l hope it all works out to your advantage in the end.

Hey Andy,

Great project. Sorry to hear about your UPS misfortune...that really does suck. Pretty much the kind of luck I have. I'm currently in the middle of replacing my pistons and cylinder on my turbo due to accidental overboost. My ignorance being the cause of the overboost. I screwed up one of the pistons and now I must purchase a complete set..."Just shoot me"...

Good luck with finding the cylinders, the Mahle Nikasil's are quite pricey. Unfortunately, from what I've discovered (and I could be wrong) they only sell the complete set (pistons and cylinders)...I wanted to cry when I found out; however, I'm a big boy...:D

Good luck and keep up the great work...

Jitters

Thanks, Jitters. I haven't decided yet about the cylinders/pistons as I'm waiting to hear the final judgment from UPS. I spoke with Ken (one of Henry's co-workers), and he indicated that the damage to the cylinder heads was mostly cosmetic and that it shouldn't have an adverse effect on performance/reliability. I was planning on replacing the p&c's with nikasil anyway.

The UPS inspector came by on Friday, and it preliminarily sounds like the issue is going to be taken up with the UPS store that finished packaging and sealing the box. Either way, things are sounding positive. I'm continuing to pray...

Since I'll be swapping out my cylinders & pistons for Nikasil, would there be any problem going from 3.2 to 3.4L? What adjustments would need to be made? I'm still aiming for a compression ratio of 8.5:1. Would anything with the fuel injection need to change? Is this a small enough jump that single plug ignition would still be ok?

Single plug would work fine, I would just make damn sure that I drilled the heads for it because it really sux to have to have to remove them just for getting them twin plugged. As far as the head goes, you might just need to have the outer edge cut a few mm larger to mate up to the cyls- I think thats about it. Are you doing the rods Andy? If it were me I would put the extra money into a good set of rods- If you ever run big power you will eventually blow them out and that wouldnt be fun. As far as the injection goes I dont think you have to worry about anything outside of tuning for it- what injectors are you running? I would think a good set of 550 cc would do fine for that.

Thanks for the reply, Kris. I'm definitely getting the heads drilled for twin plugs. I'm putting on ARP rod bolts, but I'm not doing anything with the rods. The bearings were inspected, and they look to be in excellent condition. I am planning on running stock Carrera fuel injectors with a BEGI rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Should that suffice or would I need to look into larger injectors?

I dont know- Im not sure how much they can handle- you may be safe for now with no intercooler and that fuel pressure regulator. But you may want to swap them when you do an intercooler because you will be pushing more boost and more air. I could be wrong though- you may actually need the injectors now.

I know that I'm ok with my stock injectors @ 3.2L with low boost, but I'm not sure if anything changes at a larger displacement.

they've been shown to be good to .7 bar
I couldn't tell you the duty cycle at .7 bar and 60+ psi though.
drove mine today at .7 for the first time, hard to tell the difference from .6

Things with UPS are still moving slowly. I've filed and been denied claims twice, and now I've filed a formal complaint against the owner of the UPS Store. We'll probably go to small claims court from here.

In the mean time, I've decided to move ahead with the project because it could be a long time (if ever) before I get money from them. I've purchased a set of 3.3L Mahle cylinders and pistons (8.0:1 compression). I have a few questions about putting everything together from here:

1. What size oil lines do I need to run to and from the turbo?
2. To run oil through the water ports on the turbo, is it just a matter of getting some sort of Y-adapter to run in conjunction with the oil lines running to the oil ports? If so, does anyone have a suggestion?
3. Is there supposed to be a connection made between the WG and the turbo? If so, what is it called/where can I get one?
4. Is there a connection which must be made coming off of the BOV?
5. Will I need any additional fuel lines to run the BEGI FMU (rising rate fuel pressure regulator)?
6. Does anyone have a suggestion of how to route the wire for the Innovate LM-1 coming out of the exhaust?
7. There is a place for an O2 sensor both on the J pipe (pre turbo) and on the muffler (post turbo). From what I've read, it's my understanding that it'd be better to hook the LM-1 bung sensor up to the muffler. Does anyone have a suggestion regarding what to use to plug the hole on the J-pipe?

Thanks for all of your help guys.

give me a call I can help you with most of this..

Andy,
1. If it is a ball bearing turbo, a -3 or -4 A/N will suffice for the feed and a -8 A/N from the oil collector at the bottom of the turbo.
2. Do not "T" off of the oil pressure line for the cooling jackets I dont care what anybody says, this is the WRONG way to do it. The reason being is that you create a pressure drop in the oiling system, I have seen 3 reputable Porsche shops do this and create very expensive knocking noises as a result. As for the right way- Either set up a little cooling system for the turbo (costly, but some do it) or find a way to pump oil to it without tapping the pressure side of your oiling system, and then dump it into the valve cover. You could do this by using a tilton fluid pump or some other pump that could take the heat.

As for the rest of the questions, give me a call as it is a lot to write and I am getting lazy...

Andy,

I have a garret GT30 and I just left the water jacket open following the advice of Merv (WydRyd), I know it sounds bizzare but it has worked for me for the past month or so and years on Merv's GT35 running a lot of boost. I'll probably get flamed by 930gt-40r and probably rightly so but I'm just saying it's working for me.

Anyway good luck with the project, I did mine about a month ago (with the help of these guys advice Merv and Jerry in particular) and I'm only running .5bar but man, it's a new car, you wont believe the difference and how much more fun it is to drive, it'll all be worth it!

HAHAHAHAHA...
Thats funny spence- I run them open too, I just dont say anything cuz I dont want to hear any B.S from ballbearing people saying how bad it is. I just tell Andy what not to do with the oil passages in order to protect the motor- a turbo is a wear item in my eyes where a motor is not. I am however in the process of setting up a cooling system for my PT-67 so it dont get totally killed.

Ive run my car at 30 psi with no problem (turbo or engine related)

Since the project is laughably past budget, I think I'll roll the dice and keep the water ports open. This may be something I can come back to in the fall/winter.

Ben, I'll be giving you a call.

Kris, do you know what BAR the spring is in my WG?

It should be a 1 Bar spring, or that is what it used to give me before when I had the K-27