A chap that races his 911 found that when he rigged up cooling to the ports it extended his Garretts life tremendously. No street use though, so you'll be fine.

l think you`re on track with your plan so far,well done:) As for bigger injectors you will be opening the door to spending more cash on the injectors,perhaps a pump and then a new chip, why bother? The fuel injector duty cycle is not an issue when running an FMU since they are being forced to flow waay more then intended with the increased fuel pressure.This FMU created high pressure allow the fuel to atomize better....it is a system that while not as elegant as a bespoke ECU,works incredibly well. l recommend no reinvention of the wheel on this one. As for the water jacketed turbo,and this is an issue of contention,you should be fine if it is getting the oil pressure/volume it needs. lf it were me running that turbo l would plumb a suitably sized tubing from the fan shroud high pressure area and blow through that little hole :) The C2`s used a similar air line to de-fog the tailights and ventilate the double distributor. Just another cool and clever little project to take on once the big stuff has been done.
As a side note l bought some sheet rubber from the Home Depot Garden center to shroud/seal my intercooler through the uber-cool carbon fiber 993 twin turbo tail l run. The intercooler worked extremely well without the skirt so it`s going to be chilly back there now.

cool thread.

Update
 

We got the rods cleaned up and installed with the new ARP rod bolts. The supertec head studs are in as well. The heads should be sent out next week, so things should be developing quickly by mid May.

I'm going to ask a question which I'm nearly certain I'm going to regret financially. Are there any other MUST replace parts that I should be installing? Here's a list of the odd ends that I have planned:

1. G50 Transmission Output Shaft Side Seal (2)
2. G50 Mainshaft Seal
3. Magnecor Wires Set including coil wire,
4. Engine Oil Sump Plate or Oil Tank Drain Plug Sealing Ring (2)
5. Rear Engine Lid Shock
6. Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor
7. Ignition Rotor
8. Distributor Cap
9. Fuel Filter
10. Alternator or Air Pump Belt
11. A/C Belt
12. Exhaust hardware

Thanks guys.

Any problems doing all the rods while still in the case? I've pulled one or two off before without splitting the case just to inspect, but I've never replaced all of them while still in the case, so how did it go?

It was patience-trying, but no real problems arose. Taking them out is pretty easy, but we did have to retrieve a few bolts when they fell to the bottom of the case. Getting them back on was a bit trickier and would have been seemingly impossible to do without 2 people. Doug delicately placed the rod on the crank, and while he was getting the nuts I held the rod in place from the opposite side of case with a screwdriver. It wasn't pretty, and a couple rods nearly slipped off.

Anyone?

How about the clutch fork pivot shaft and bearings? Or the release bearing & guide tube? Just a thought, they aren't must replace items, but they can catch you with your pants down upon reassembly...

Good luck, your thread makes me wish I had a g50 carrera even worse!!

I've got the updated clutch release fork for the g50, release bearing, and guide tube, but I'm not sure what the pivot shaft and bearings for the release fork are. Can you send me a link or a part number?

rut roe shaggy...
 

Which fork do you have? Is it the new style Porsche one w/ plastic bushings in it? Does your old one have bearings in it? If so, you'll have to modify the bell housing to use it. there is also an aftermarket shaft fix that is very popular as it requires no machining. I only used that style once. It seems fine. My old shop bought the tool from Porsche to update the bellhousing, and that is what we usually did. It's a pretty simple tool that works with a drill, you may find someone in your area that owns one willing to use it for you, if you've already bought the updated stuff... Let me know what you have and I'll be happy to dig up the related parts and tell you what's involved. I would bet there are countless threads/posts on this topic... Good luck

I bought the updated fork and operating shaft & bushing kit which requires no drilling. I think I should be good. Thanks for your help!

Andy, if you need more help with the Begi I have more time now. I know I didn't help too much in that PM.
just let me know

I really appreciate it, Jerry. Your timing is impeccable as I feel that I've just gotten up to speed enough on the Begi to ask some specific questions. I'll post them here so others can benefit.

1. I noticed on one of your threads that you picked up a 1/4" NPT to -6 fitting for the BEGi. Is this to make the connection between the fuel rail and the "in" on the BEGi? Are any special adapters necessary?
2. Did you simply relocate the stock fuel return line (to the tank) from the fuel rail to the "out" on the BEGi? Again, any special adapters needed?
3. Where can I get a check valve and line?
4. I read on BEGi's website and in a few of your posts that it's important to know the fuel pressure while adjusting the FMU. I am installing a boost/vacuum gauge, but I did not have plans to install a fuel pressure gauge. Is there a feasible way to measure the fuel pressure during the adjustment process w/o installing a gauge?

Ben supplied me the VDO boost/vacuum gauge which replaces the clock, and I had a hard time trying to get the clock out last night. Anyone have a suggestion?

The clock just pops out . pull it with your fingers.. then put the boost gauge in with the hose connected to it. the hose goes into the brake booster fitting and then the vacum source hose gets connected to that. pretty straight forward

I guess I'm weak :( I'll give it another whirl.

Try pushing it out from the luggage compartment. If you can't push the clock out for some reason then do another gauge. Once you have one gauge out you can remove the next one and so on from inside the car.

Hi,
Grab the edges of the clock and rock back and forth as you pull towards you a little. The first thing you need to do is brake the seal that the rubber has made over the years to the Vinyl of the dash. As soon as you get it to "move" a little, you can then start rocking back and forth as you pull and it will come right out. Once you get it out the first time, it gets "easy" to get it out. Actually pretty ingenious design, I like how they did that. Unfortunately when your car gets about 500HP, acceleration gets to the point where you are always tossing the gauges into your lap under WOT ;-)

Here is a picture to show what holds the clock in place....mine appeared to have a glue of some kind on the stepped rubber trim.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210275027.jpg

I carefully used a hooked tool pick to pull on the clock. Easy to damage the instrument bezel though.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1210275108.jpg

I went with the 1/4" unit because I think it's closer to the actual din size of the fuel lines.
this will be long, I'll try to make it easy.

the begi gets installed on the return side of things after the stock FPR.
from the return fuel line at the bottom of that bracket, you'll see the gold and black fitting that goes straight to the return fitting at that bracket. PIC #1

http://i28.tinypic.com/5kr6lz.jpg

this line you custom make and connect to the IN side of the beggi, PIC#2 notice the sender for my pressure gauge and the brass 1/4 90 degree fitting.


http://i32.tinypic.com/2ufezk5.jpg

on the backside of the begi fuel comes out and gets connected to the stock returne line. I have another brass 1/4NPT fitting there and a 1/4NPT to -6 nipple, then a -6 to -6 swivel collar. And then a -6 to fuel line nipple (adapter). I don't have the size sitting here. this nipple and the black and gold thing are special batinc.net parts. all the rest can be had at many places. I used this set up because I had it sitting here left over from the other fuel line stuff. You can do it many ways.
http://i30.tinypic.com/n51uhj.jpg
the black line with the coiled protector thing is the stock line that goes down through the tin and to the tunnel line.
I used - six hose
(1) 120 degree -6 hose end
(1) -6 to 1/4" npt nipple, male to male, with 1/8" plug for a fuel sender
(2) 1/4" brass 90 degree fittings
(1) 1/4"npt to -6 nipple, male to male
(1) -6 swivel collar, female to female
(1) 14mm 1.5 X -6 union alloy $9.85 from batinc.net
(1) 14mm straight to -6 hose end $17.20 from batinc.net
those two things at the end are exactly how they are written on their receipt.
they call collars couplings and nipples, or hex nipples unions.

if you are doing your drain back to the case and need part numbers and stuff read this thread
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/325605-excuse-me-second.html

the test port on the drivers side rail has a cap on it. I drilled and tapped this port for a oil filled 1/8' npt pressure gauge. I used this to see better when adjusting from the engine side, easier to see than a gauge in the front. Here's a picture. Another pelican has it and hasn't returned it, otherwise I'd mail it to you, cause you need a spare to put back on when you're done.
http://i26.tinypic.com/2yxokg2.jpg

oh, if you want a check valve bat has those to, I have one that I didn't put on
a dash 6 to dash 6 male to male from them is $39. I was worried about flow rates, also just downline at the fuel pump is another check. And I put in a new pump that comes with a new check. So I figured it was over kill. I also wouldn't rely on these over the counter valves for fuel. They aren't too impressive coming from an oilfield trash worker.