Advice needed: DIY gone bad

Viper01 · 04-19-2008, 02:35 PM

I've posted this in the tech section as well.
Guys, I need your advice so I know what I'm in for:
I just purchased a performance muffler from another Pelicanite; I soaked the bolts on the studs from the turbo to the cat as I'll be removing the stock cat and muffler as one piece. After soaking for a couple of days in PB Blaster, all the bolts broke free no problem with just an open ended wrench. As I was loosening the upper rear bolt (not even a full turn yet) it started to tighten up......yup, I think the stud sheared off. I marked the end of the stud to be certain and it moves back and forth with the bolt. I don't want to go any further until I know how complicated this is going to get if I have to replace a stud and/or remove the turbo. Any suggestions?

BoxxerSix · 04-19-2008, 03:22 PM

if it's broken off it's a done deal and the turbo has to come out to drill the broken stud out the right way.

There's a chance that you're just turning the stud and backing it out of the housing rather than spinning the nut off the stud itself. Just keep working it back and forth a little at a time, keeping it soaked in penetrating spray and with any luck it'll drop out w/o breaking. If you have a torch(even a propane one) heat the housing near the stud for a bit and it'll help in removing the stud.

A930Rocket · 04-19-2008, 05:01 PM

Adam has nailed. Either it comes out or it breaks. If it breaks off with something to grab ahold of, you can heat it red hot and try to unscrew it. If it breaks off flush, you 'll need to get the stud out with an easy out. Take your time doing it.

sww914 · 04-19-2008, 05:17 PM

Don't torque on it hard. Heat it up and wiggle it one way and the other, gently. Heat, wiggle, spray, wiggle, heat, and so forth. It might still be OK. Even if you break the stud all is not lost.

911nut · 911nut's Garage

Don't feel bad Viper. That kind of $hit happens to all of us.

I was trying to get my wastegate off last weekend and the wastegate flange snapped off in the process. This meant I had to strip everything off back to the crossover to get the merge pipe off and repair welded.

Removing the turbo will be big fun

I just took mine off. The toughest part is the back 13 mm nut on the oil inlet and the back nuts and bolts on the turbo flange.

Take your time and don't get frustrated and start throwing tools at your fenders.

In the future, use a penetrant like Kroil or PB Blaster.

Viper01 · 04-19-2008, 06:07 PM

You guys rock! Thanks so much for the replies. To update, Adam was right on the money just like A930Rocket said. I did exactly as he suggested and the nut finally started turning on its own. I figured I had two options: 1. Leave the stock exhaust on (yeah, right) 2. Go for it.
I got lucky so I hope to be hearing the sounds of turbo spool and lots of popping on decel later tonight.
I really appreciate your input

boostfix · 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911nut

...don't get frustrated and start throwing tools at your fenders.

LMAO

JFairman · 04-20-2008, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911nut

Don't feel bad Viper. That kind of $hit happens to all of us.

I was trying to get my wastegate off last weekend and the wastegate flange snapped off in the process. This meant I had to strip everything off back to the crossover to get the merge pipe off and repair welded.

Removing the turbo will be big fun

I just took mine off. The toughest part is the back 13 mm nut on the oil inlet and the back nuts and bolts on the turbo flange.

Take your time and don't get frustrated and start throwing tools at your fenders.

In the future, use a penetrant like Kroil or PB Blaster.

It's ALOT easier if you use allen bolts on the turbo's oil inlet and outlet lines instead of regular bolts.
An "L" shaped allen wrench for the top ones and a 3/8" drive long allen wrench with a the little ball on the end for the bottom ones.
They don't need to be real tight either.