ARP head stud torque procedure/settings

[slyguy]

Just putting the motor back together, looking for the torque procedure and settings. I recall a two stage procedure and a final torque at 36 ft-lbs. Anyone remember the intermediate and final torque value and procedure? Cant find it anywhere on their page. Thanks!
Tom

[DonE]

According to their tech, you condition the threads by torquing the nuts 5 times - run it down, torque, loosen, do it again. Hopefully, you have their assembly lube for the threads.

[slyguy]

Thanks Don
I last put this engine together in 2002, at that point I thought it was in two steps the studs were torqued. 5X to full torque or is it done in stages? I also seem to remember there was a provision for 10-30 as lube but the setting was a little higher by a couple ft-lb. I know that little piece of paper has got to be lying around here somewhere...

[DonE]

Originally Posted by slyguy

Thanks Don
I last put this engine together in 2002, at that point I thought it was in two steps the studs were torqued. 5X to full torque or is it done in stages? I also seem to remember there was a provision for 10-30 as lube but the setting was a little higher by a couple ft-lb. I know that little piece of paper has got to be lying around here somewhere...

The torquing is done all at once - torque to 36, then loosen x 5. As for oil, sorry, I don't know.

[les_garten]

Originally Posted by slyguy

Thanks Don
I last put this engine together in 2002, at that point I thought it was in two steps the studs were torqued. 5X to full torque or is it done in stages? I also seem to remember there was a provision for 10-30 as lube but the setting was a little higher by a couple ft-lb. I know that little piece of paper has got to be lying around here somewhere...

I don't have the sheet either. There are two specs depending on whether you use their Lube or engine oil. I lost my page and had to call tehm during the torque up. Just pick up the phone!

.

[slyguy]

Just got off the horn with ARP and Raceware in two seperate conversations. ARP final torque 38 ft-lb and a two step procedure, first to 20 and then to 38. They highly reccommended using their specified lube as "some is more slippery than others, no sense taking a chance on a motor like that..." Raceware specs a three step for their studs, 1 to 15 ft-lb, 2 to 20 ft-lb 3 to 25 ft-lb with optimoly HT or antiseize compound. One for the archives... let the reassembly begin!

[les_garten]

Sounds familiar, now the fun begins!

.

[Ken911]

Originally Posted by slyguy

Just got off the horn with ARP and Raceware in two seperate conversations. ARP final torque 38 ft-lb and a two step procedure, first to 20 and then to 38. They highly reccommended using their specified lube as "some is more slippery than others, no sense taking a chance on a motor like that..." Raceware specs a three step for their studs, 1 to 15 ft-lb, 2 to 20 ft-lb 3 to 25 ft-lb with optimoly HT or antiseize compound. One for the archives... let the reassembly begin!

I knew this was posted someplace. thanks for using all the correct key words so I could find it. have the valve covers off for valve adjustment and replacing the rocker arm shafts and need to check the head studs were torqued correctly.

[zcoker]

My APR instruction sheet says to use ARP lube. Liberally coat the bolt threads and bolt face, torque in two equal steps 19/19, final torque to 38ft/lbs. This five time back and forth torque conditioning method is not on the 4206 ARP instruction sheet.

A lot of threads say that this ARP torque is way to much. I find that suspect because the factory torque is 30+ ft/lbs. I do not think 8 ft/lbs more is going to put too much stress on the barrels/heads.

[fredmeister]

Does anyone know if you need to retorque or at least recheck the torque on ARP studs after 1000miles of break in time?
Its a PITA to try to retorque the studs with the engine in the car so was hoping this is not necessary.

Thanks,
Fred

[slyguy]

see post 6. everything you need to know

[fredmeister]

Originally Posted by slyguy

see post 6. everything you need to know

This does not answer my question.
Post 6 talks about the procedure to torque not whether they need to be checked after running the engine for the first 1000 miles.
What did ARP say when you asked them this question of retorqing?

[quattrorunner]

Originally Posted by fredmeister

This does not answer my question.
Post 6 talks about the procedure to torque not whether they need to be checked after running the engine for the first 1000 miles.
What did ARP say when you asked them this question of retorqing?

After a thousand miles are we not supposed to do the valves anyway? It's easy while your there. I'd just do it as a check with the torque wrench just to do it.

[fredmeister]

Originally Posted by quattrorunner

After a thousand miles are we not supposed to do the valves anyway? It's easy while your there. I'd just do it as a check with the torque wrench just to do it.

Have you ever found yours loose or needing retorquing then?

Just trying to see if this is a possible occurence.

[quattrorunner]

My valves were loose. Not sure why. I was told or read to readjust and retorque after 1000 miles. I put the torque wrench on them and felt good about the tightness but I'm still glad I did it. I used the arp lube origionaly when assembling though. It's a time to do that and change oil and filters and look things over real closely so it's not too far fetched to just give it good once over.

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by fredmeister

Have you ever found yours loose or needing retorquing then?

Just trying to see if this is a possible occurence.

When I checked the torque on my Raceware stud nuts, first time following an overhaul (about 1500 miles), probably 1/3 of them turned slightly in order to reach the setting on my torque wrench. This is a real gray area, however, as who knows if the resistance on the threads etc. is the same, or even close, to what it was during the original assembly . . .

[jwasbury]

I followed Wayne's book, which IIRC says to check torque on head studs and check/reset valve lash at 500mi. None of my ARP head studs needed additional torque at that point. Haven't touched them since.

[quattrorunner]

Originally Posted by jwasbury

I followed Wayne's book, which IIRC says to check torque on head studs and check/reset valve lash at 500mi. None of my ARP head studs needed additional torque at that point. Haven't touched them since.

I did, I checked them last time I had it opened up and nothing, nothing to tighten at all.