Front rotor question

[Doug Smith]

Here's a quick question for you front rotor experts. It's on a 79 ROW 930. What's the preferred method of removing this center cover. It has a threaded attachment - does it just pull out? Maybe with a slide hammer? None of the information I have specifies. Thanks!

[A930Rocket]

You can use a slide hammer with a bolt welded to the end. Make sure it's a heavy enough weight on the end. Maybe 5 lbs.

[Doug Smith]

Thanks, I appreciate the help. I'll take care of that first thing tomorrow.

Doug

[9dreizig]

As I recall the last time I did that job I used a 10 lb weight and had a bold through the center with washers, and a nut, just tightened it and pulled right out

[JFairman]

I used a harbor freight slide hammer and the threaded boss popped off the cap, it's spot welded on.
Had a guy tig weld it back on which also attached it stronger to the cap and now the slide hammer works fine.

[Doug Smith]

Interesting. I like the idea of using a bolt and washers through some type of device like the 10 lb weight. I might try that first since I can probably piece something like that together in the garage. If not, I'm headed for Harbor Freight. The main thing is knowing that it just pulls straight out. Thanks again - Doug

[A930Rocket]

I used this for awhile until I made the puller.

[fredmeister]

Originally Posted by Doug Smith

Here's a quick question for you front rotor experts. It's on a 79 ROW 930. What's the preferred method of removing this center cover. It has a threaded attachment - does it just pull out? Maybe with a slide hammer? None of the information I have specifies. Thanks!

Point of reference, a 79 930 has a different hub and bearing cap. Someone must have updated to later style hub and nonfloating rotors on your car. Probably to save money on rotor replacement costs. i like the pulling fixtures as opposed to impact like a slide hammer. it is easier on the welded nut on the cap that way.

[onboost]

Drilled a hole in a short piece of 2x2, run abolt throu and thread into cap.
Couple light whacks on the 2x2 with a hammer and it's off.. no fuss no muss & nothing special.

[spoke]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

I used this for awhile until I made the puller.

I didn't have a steel plate so I substituted a piece of hardwood (oak) and just pulled out the cap. I tried a piece of 2x4 but it was too soft and just poked through.

[EmptyGarage]

Anybody happen to know correct the bolt size and tread for this?

PJ

[JFairman]

IIRC it's 10x1.5mm

[SebasSF]

OK, I could use some help here- added some penetrating oil the night before, made a nice puller, and when I tightened it down (even tapped it a bit) the threaded part popped off! What do I do now? I really don't want to put everything back together and drop it at the local shop!
Thanks, Sebastian

[Alan L]

You now officially have a problem. Not as bad as broken head studs, but similar. Basically you are probably going to have to weld that threaded bit back on. Then get some heat around the circumference of the cap, (butane cannister torch should be enough) and try again. But the slide hammer is probably a better technique than a puller for a stuck item. Short sharp shock. I use a threaded rod (stock store item) with a couple of nuts locked on the end. Think it is 10x1.5 as fredmeister says. You can check while the nut bit is off the hub- take to store and check fit. I use for the slider a piece of round about 100mm long (4" in your world) and 2" diameter, bored out to 10mm. Prob weighs about 2lb. Works fine.
Alan

[slyguy]

Just started taking mine down yesterday, same thing happened and ultimately mangled the cover beyond recognition. If all else fails, on the side of the spacer there is an access hole (see rawknees) to loosen the retainer clamp, yours is just below 3oclock in your pic. I drilled an 8mm hole through the cover to fit the 6mm allen key loosened the clamp and simply rotated the entire assembly off CCW with the allen key in place. Popped the cover off from the inside once I had the rotor off.