Low idle cold. Normal idle warm. after hard run.

spyder348 · 02-12-2011, 04:37 PM

Was able to make a hard 30 mile run at speeds b/w 90 and 140 the whole way very fun except for finding out I probably need a clutch now. So before cold and warm starts were quick and always stayed b/w 900 and 1100. Now both starts are still quick but when cold, idle is low around 600 till it gets warm then its back up at 1k. No roughness or long crank. Car never did idle high when cold then come down when warm like normal cars. Did I mess up my aar valve with all that boost?

pkracer21j · 02-12-2011, 05:00 PM

Sounds like your AAR is stuck closed. I plugged mine with a slug after it went bad, always idles a little low for a few minutes but then comes back up to normal 900.

spyder348 · 02-12-2011, 05:09 PM

Would long period of boost tend to mess with that valve? I really don't mind the low idle at first as long as its not damaging anything. There a way to check the aar?

pkracer21j · 02-12-2011, 05:13 PM

take it off, put it in the freezer, it should be open. I dont know why boost would cause it to fail, but I'm all for simplifing the CIS system.

spuggy · 02-12-2011, 11:32 PM

Never let it idle at low RPM to warm up. Read the owners' manual (or about 100 threads on the 911 forum).

spyder348 · 02-13-2011, 05:15 AM

Ahhhh I have read it. It says keep revs high right away for a while. Damn ok so I need to fix this I geuss ill pull the aar and put it in the freezer. Where do you look to see what its doing.

spyder348 · 02-13-2011, 01:15 PM

Well can't blow through it well when cold. I'll just say its stuck closed. It never did make the revs high when cold like it should have. Geuss ill keep my foot on the gas a bit on starts. Beats paying 1200 bucks. No roughness and no extended crank means no biggy. Thanks all

mark houghton · 02-14-2011, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyder348

Well can't blow through it well when cold. I'll just say its stuck closed. It never did make the revs high when cold like it should have. Geuss ill keep my foot on the gas a bit on starts. Beats paying 1200 bucks. No roughness and no extended crank means no biggy. Thanks all

With the hoses off, look inside and you should be able to see a slotted opening...and the disc that that slot is in should be free to move and will be under slight spring tension. Puting it in the fridge or freezer to get it cold should cause the opening to get larger. If it's completely closed when cold (you'll still see a little notch of an opening) then stick a screwdriver into the opening and see if the disc is moveable. There is a way to adjust these to open more by pounding in a pin on the body, but once you pound it in there's no going back unless you drill and tap that pin to pull it back out.

If adventurous, you might want to take the whole thing apart to see what's going on inside. Might just need some lubrication somewhere.

spyder348 · 02-14-2011, 09:54 AM

AAR seems to be working today. With some luck it will stay that way. Thanks for the info. mark. I now know how it operates and how to test it.