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Until the thub returns, I use the time to work on everything else:
Door cut-outs are to small and don't look that good: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327351241.jpg As I decided to remove stereo I will increase and change layout of the opening. Here is the result of about 20 versions I created and compared: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327351369.jpg ...And I received my new steering wheel today:) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327351508.jpg |
Incredible Roland! Keep it going for sure. BTW...nice rabbit! We have a dwarf Netherlands.
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Today I received new rear light housings. I decided to buy aftermarket plastic ones, lighter and cheaper then stock. My old ones had almost no more shiny chrome inside. I spray-painted them a few years ago with chrome effect, but it did not last long and was not really shiny either...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327530531.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327530857.jpg |
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Bought them here:
911 1969-89 Rear Light Unit Right - Detailed item view - Type 911 Just saw the price increased. I paid 125 GBP each, now they are 135 GBP PS: Weight is on the kitchenscale about 300g each without lens like on pic |
First door finished:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327790185.jpg And another drilled part: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327790272.jpg |
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Fanatical! I like it!
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Made some molding tools to cut the foam panel with my homemade cutter
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328737433.jpg It's a simple construction with a hot wire (made for this application) using a power supply (not on pic). Costs about 100 USD all in all http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328737673.jpg And that the result, a nice moulding that is pretty precise to use for laminating http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328737870.jpg |
Dr. Drill is back
once more...
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Man, you are amazing with your patience for drilling.
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I think you need a therapist - like now! :p
BTW: that steering wheel looks like a Mod 7 but in leather rather than swede/alcantra . . . |
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Correct, Mod07 in leather |
Door panels laminated and removed from moulding. Unfortunatly I had issue with parting agent, was too old...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330464724.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330464812.jpg But not a big thing. Only a bit more working on the surface before painting |
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Body has left for a while
Today it was picked up for blasting, body work and painting. Will post some pics of progress from time to time
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331331142.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331331214.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331331287.jpg |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1324682757.jpg[/QUOTE]
Great work! But what kind of cat is that with the big ears............just kidding..cute bunny |
It looks like you need to train that rabbit to **** in one spot! :p
I like the door inserts - you did an excellent job! |
He is trained to recycle newspaper
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331402803.jpg On this pic he was only 10weeks old |
While the car is still at the body shop, I work on parts. Because I have a lot of selfmade aluminum parts like bushes, spacers and brackets, I decided to anodized them myself. I found a while ago some information and a good source for material and forum.
Here are parts before, whithin anodizing process and after. There are more steps than shown here, but it's mainly: Cleaning (with removing old coat if there is one) anodizing colouring hardening Here are the parts before any work, just raw aluminum: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334782249.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334782317.jpg Besides some cans with acid etc. and a steamer this is the main equipment: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334782488.jpg Anodizing in progress: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334782579.jpg Here is the final result: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334782694.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334782797.jpg |
Some more anodizing, went out very nice too:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1336984123.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1336984141.jpg Also I tried to nickel-coat (chemical, electroless). First removed old coating, which was very easy, only some caustic soda (10%) on night and the steel is clean. After you have to use two different baths, cleaning and acid cleaning until it comes into the Nibor (brand) bath with contains all the chemicals and the nickel-Boron. Here is the result: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1336984666.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1336984680.jpg |
You've gone plaid with your drill : 0
I don't even recognize those parts, maybe from throttle or clutch? |
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Door lock mechanism: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1336996136.jpg |
I just ordered some Nibor thanks to you, I hope you are happy with the results
did you acid dip the spring to clean it ? I heard they will break after a short while, if put in acid. |
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I stripped the zinc first in a bath with ca. 10% Natriumhydroxid (easy to get) for about 24 hrs, just look at the bath until no more bubbles will rise. Steel will be blank after, slight corrosion will be removed too. Then into 5% acid sulfur (there are better chemicals but not as easy to get) to remove rest of corrosion (if needed) for a short while, no longer as it's clean. With no rust maybe 2 minutes. this is recommended to prepare for Nibor bath. It is very important to flush parts between the baths with a lot of water (distilled if possible) and not let them outside longer than necessary, they will start corrode immediately. I dipped the springs the same way, but did not leave them in the Nibor bath for one hour, but 30min. The thicker the coating, the brittle it will be. BTW. I had some parts with nickel plating too, this will not be removed by the Natriumhydroxid... |
While I still anodizing a lot of selfmade aluminum parts, I disassembled, cleaned and regreased the steering/beam and fitted new boots.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338661652.jpg Note: The spacers of my first anodizing try are for the steering to save some weight here too :-) |
As I am on the way to lighten my car I made some more parts on my lathe and anodized them together with the other aluminum parts of the suspension:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339400158.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339400170.jpg |
Update finally!!!
While tube is still in work, I am multitasking since a while:
Working on suspension, brakes, fiberglass etc. A lot of parts are somewhere between start and finished. For now I show my calipers. Media blasted (where red but ugly made) and cleaned: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343337054.jpg And after anodizing: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343337088.jpg Now they look like stock. I am unsure if I should make them red again. Like red calipers and it would be a nice contrast to the black center of the wheels. Recommendations welcome:) |
Black or silver. No red.
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Update :-)
As I am working on several parts, there was not much to show. But I found some anyway;)
Front strut cleaned, Nuts and bushes anodized (of course), bump steer kit mounted too: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344975926.jpg Front hub before and after anodizing, they a bit darker in real than on pics because of the aluminium alloy. I decided to let it be and not coloring as I like the look: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344976067.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344976089.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344976113.jpg |
Since I mounted the WEVO engine and tranny mounts, I did not liked the golden color that much. Therefore I decided to anodize them black:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1345994145.jpg Further I worked on my Hargett shifter. The couplers are way to massive for that application and they are raw steel, oxidation will be an issue. Mine started already to show some surface rust. So I machined them a bit to reduce weight and nickelplated (homemade too) them after polishing. They look quit nice now: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1345994344.jpg Further I drilled the shaft on the front side, where no stress is to expect: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1345994423.jpg |
Guess what... ;-)
As the order from Pelicanparts is still on the way, I found something more to anodize in different color, my Tial, formerly blue:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346614301.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346614323.jpg |
Tell me your opinion
I received lot of parts from Pelican yesterday. Among other things I get Tarett sway bars. Now as you know I like to drill and machine almost everything:D
I am suprised, how massive the front sway bar housing for the bushes are (the red round ones), maybe 1" thick! If I compare to others like Smartracing al lot of more material there. Therefore I thought to machine of some of the material. My thoughts are to remove the red areas on the drawing for about half the thickness. Drawing is a bit somewhat square, would make smoother edges Please let me know your thoughts about. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346847506.jpg |
Different, easier to do version, red machined down to half the thickness:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346850952.jpg |
In the last version - is there clearance for the bolt head next to the center thicker part?
I would say go for it. If it breaks it is not a big deal since it is just the anti-sway bar. So in the spirit of Colin Chapman, machine it until it breaks, then get another one and machine it down just a little bit less. :) |
As I remember, some of Colin's drivers did not survived.... ;)
I tend to the second one, easier to do and a lot of beef there. I think I will remove material on the lathe down half the thickness (still 11mm thick) and reduce diameter to the middle between teflon bush and screw head/shim http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346877561.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346877582.jpg |
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