Well, guess what I've done;)

Here is the result of my work:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346962315.jpg

After anodizing:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346962343.jpg

Nice. :cool:

After some issues with the colouring the arms here the finished sway bars. Because I hardanodized them for better durability against stone chips etc... the coloring was a bit difficult, harder means smaller pores means worse coloring. But as you can see I solved the problem:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348329064.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348329101.jpg

looks like we're going down the same road with the suspension there. Nice closeup pics. I had thought about changing the color of the anodizing but I decided to leave it in the colors it came in.

Excellent work. Keep it up!

Hal

Hi Hal (9000?:D)

Thanx for the kind words, your built is very nice as well!

Today I re-assembled the whiper unit to see how it fits together. I drilled (who wonders) a lot and made one linkage out of aluminum and machined then to save some more weight. Small links are nickel plated and all bearings are drilled too (hollow now)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348428995.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348429054.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348429105.jpg

Some pics of your 'factory' would be nice. I can't believe how nice your parts turn out after some dipping or baths of acids.

Well there isn't any factory, just what I posted earlier here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348470446.jpg

This pic shows the anodizing process. There are several steps to do. It is very important to flush parts excessive to avoid contaminations of each bath by each other.

Flushing I do in the bathroom (yes, I am not married), two steps: Douching with lot of water, then soaking in distilled water. This I have to make between each step, which are as follow:

-If parts are anodized already: dipping in 10% sodium hydroxid until the old coatt is off. Takes between 1 to 5min. This step can also be used for satin the surface if wanted. Otherwise skip this step

-If there is staining by alloying components, the dipp into 15% nitric acid for a few seconds.

-Next bath is a special cleaning fluid for aluminium, which has to be heated up to 65°C. 10Min.

-Now it's time for the anodizing process. 60min. into 15% acid sulfur (max. 20°C, has to be cooled if needed due heating by process) with a selected amperage. The colder the acid, the smaller the pores = harder

-If coloring is wanted, dipping again in the nitric acid to improve color absorbtion.

-5 to 20Min (depends on colour and wished saturation) in 50°C dye lot.

-60Min in boiling distilled water (min. 96°C during the time) I use a pressure cooker to minimize fluid loss due the cooking. This step is what gives the hardness as the pores sealing by absorbing hydrogen. This will be done in the kitchen

Now the process is finished and you have some nice parts:)

To get even better results, I use some additives but this is minimal and not needed for the beginning.

All steps with dangerous goods I do on the balcony (acrid fumes)

Hope this gives you an idea of the process

Very nice work Roland!
It's interesting looking at your pictures of modified and lightened parts. The windsheild wiper mechanism is impressive. Too bad it's hard to see once installed but you can always pull out your clock or boost gauge to admire it.

Thanks for explaining the anodizing process too.
I've heard anodizing aluminum is a controlled oxidation process in chemical baths but never heard or read about the actual steps involved or if other metals can be anodized. I guess only aluminum can be anodized because it's the only metal I've heard of that way. The anodizing kit you have looks like good quality stuff too.

JFairman

Thank you. You're almost right. Titan and magnesium can be anodized too...

Actually the kit contains the unique chemicals for cleaning aluminium, hardanodizing, coloring and sealing plus a good manual.

All the other things like sodium hydroxid etc are easy to buy. Further you need a proper power supply, Titan wire and a few bolts etc, some PP bins and a lot of distilled water, in my case 1.5-2.5 litre for each bath (plus 5l for each run)

Here I bought the starter kit and get a lot of information, very nice guy:

Electronic Thingks - Welcome

You can even download a simpe manual there, which contains almost everything like the one you get with Kit

On the way to save some weight, I worked on the mirrors.

I removed the motors with gears:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1351281963.jpg

There is a mechanism which fix the position when mirror set. It has a plate spring which I set under tension with a screw to get the same pressure like the motor housing did before:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1351282169.jpg

Mechanism assembled again:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1351282248.jpg

Frame drilled and painted (can you believe;)):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1351282344.jpg

And here is the endresult:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1351282389.jpg

Had meeting today with body/paint shop to discuss how to go on. So I took some pics of the car. It is now plastic blasted and not painted. the color is only to avoid rust while in work:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1352482372.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1352482411.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1352482442.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1352482473.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1352482509.jpg

After I reassembled the wiper mechanism I noticed, that there is more potential, so I made the bearing tubes and the nuts out of aluminum. Of course anodizing was part of this job. Weight saving 50g each including nuts (I know, big effort for small amount, but I like it)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353183731.jpg

More things done. I drilled a bit and cut-off some material from my homemade coil/fuse/relay bracket. then I only use aluminum screws and tubtara nuts to save some more weight

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353619796.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353619825.jpg

Further I made clamps for the brake fluid reservoirs from aluminum band and anodized them black. First ones were steel and really ugly...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353619997.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353620027.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353620054.jpg

Incredible work there Roland.
You are really stripping it down :-)
I can imagine you are looking forward to put those shiny parts back in the car.

Going for the original color?

Trond

Thanx for compliment!

Well, I have to use the time until the tub comes back somehow:D

Yes, it will be the same color. It's not a original one BTW, it's VW L5Y Nebioblue

As you may remember, on the first pics in this thread, some show the rear end, which is quit deformed due some minor impacts on the track (not me, former owner). Car was on the Celette and measurements are fine, but looks awful.

BUT a guy I know a little hat an accident with his very beautiful AAA looking 930, hit from the side, total damaged, not rebuildable, but rear area is fine, so I will buy the body and cut-off usefull parts to fit on my car. Easier and cheaper then buy all the stuff piece by piece. The idea is to replace the last foot or so in one piece. Body shop knows how to do...

Just saw, that I maybe did not wrote clear. I made the clamps completly on my own.

Was easier than it looks:

Just cut a strip of aluminum, drill some holes, milling the slots on a big column drill, fit some tubtaras (love them:) ), bend around a bottle of beer or so and finally anodizing, which I can do almost while sleeping

Some of you may recognize the tiny little pieces beside the clamps. Those are the nuts to mount the Cup-mirrors on the door. Made them out of high strength aluminum 7075

Worked on my gas heater today, drilled a bit;) made the backing plates out of aluminum, drilled and anodized of course (should I better only name if I do not anodize...?) and replaced all screws with aluminum ones

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353959556.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353959586.jpg

Roland,

I have been following your tread, very impressive work your doing. Your car is going to be beautiful once all assemble and painted.

I am assuming that your using a gas heater because you no longer have heater boxes on your exhaust ?

Does the gas heater give constant warm air or can you regulate it like a normal heating system? Thanks:)

Great topic! like to see more of your progress.
I wish I had a friend like you ... a lot of people are looking up to you!

Herman

You're right, I have RarlyL8 Headers without heat. The heater can be regulated. It's heating performance is 2500Watt, so enough to not have cold and defrost the windows. I doubt if it's enough for deep winter, especially as my car has no isolation etc... But maybe in a stock car it would be ok. It's a Eberspächer B1LC Compact, watch my thread too:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/566192-gas-heater-installation.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353970410.jpg

Thanks for the kind words. There are a few more guys here, beeing at least as nuts as I am!

But maybe I am the only one with the same girlfriend since years:D

One more item done
 

Today I anodized the two parts I made earlier this week on the lathe for the trunk lock

A few gramms less here too

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1354147189.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1354147220.jpg

Notice: I left the base plate and the rod stock (besides drilling), as they have to take quite a certain amount of load

you made those 2 Al pieces on the latch?

Exactly:)

Some more parts anodized, fuel line banjo and selfmade plug for oil tank (aluminum instead of steel)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1354658018.jpg

Body shell rust removal
 

In the UK we have a company who get rid of all old paint and rust by immesing the shell in a tank of chemicals and then after repairs will dip the whole shell in a protective primer which will be much better than any body shop could do.

Technical Process for Paint Stripping, Rust and Underseal Removal for Cars and Industry from Surface Processing Limited

I have no relationship with the company but they might get my Austin Healey body when I finish my house building

If you look at one of the first post I made, you can read, that I made a rust treatment similar to this a decade ago, which was one of the reason for the actual situation, very difficult process and easy to make a mistakes. Furhter the KTL primer is very good in principle, but as i'ts a electrical process too, there is a problem with some boxed areas, even if opend by drilling, as there is the effect of Farady cage, which leads to loss of field inside the box. This is very difficult to avoid and only factory do this perfectly as the make series, doubt a shop will do for a single type of car...

Hi Roland

It`s a nice Project from You with many interesting details!

Thanks:)

After I asked about the need of check valve at front pump here

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/717638-efi-fuel-system-question.html

I decided to make one out of aluminum, went out very nice. Was a bit time consuming and I screwed up the first nut (cutting thread was not perfectly angeled), second one was fine. I fitted the stock valve inserts (rubber ball, spring and spring seat), so it's an more or less exact copy of the stock one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1354913786.jpg

As the banjo and hose endings are black, I went without coloring this time

Roland, that is absolutely sweet.

I need one of those end caps as I have just installed a 044 pump in my Carrera 3.0

I wish I had your machine shop :)

Keep it coming, it is very inspiring.

I do not have a real machine shop, only a small table lathe... but I can use tools at work (construction equipment) Most things I do are made at home...

This cap is available from our host, mine is priceless;)

look here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=928-110-475-04-M100&catalog_description=Cap%20Nut%20%28M%31%32%20 X%20%31%2E%35mm%29%20%39%31%31%20%28%31%39%37%38%2 D%38%39%29%2C%20%39%31%31%20Turbo%20%28%31%39%37%3 8%2D%39%37%29%20

I saw someone drilling his Hargett shifter and I looked at mine and thought:

"Why not":D

As it is very massive there is no risk in my eyes to save some weight here too. Here is the result then:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355608068.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355608102.jpg

As it is Christmas soon, I made a unique key chain out of aluminum, anodized of course as usual;)

BTW it represents me, only my GF knows why...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355608315.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355608351.jpg

Received some pics from body shop. Could be worse. I bought another 930 body with A-pillar / front crash which is in excellent condition. complete rear section including torsion tube will be replaced by donator body. Front section is about 1cm out of spec, see pic

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356082669.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356082688.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356082704.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356082743.jpg

Go Roland Go!

Love the mad attention to detail!

In the above pic, is that jig for a 911 or 930? The front rack mounts on a 930 are higher than a 911.

Keychain is Sweet...tail should double as a bottle opener?

930 I hope;)

Yes they are higher, but here you see LH, RH is sitting on the jig...

Whole front is a bit missaligned. But nothing which cannot be solved!

Haven't thought about that... Maybe next time