Thanks guys

My drill is ready for action:D
I am on vacantion from 11th until 20th of September, so you have to be patient for updates here... Maybe if I got a little time before, let's seeSmileWavy

Finally some news
 

After my vacation I did not made much, at least not to show, so here the first worth to. To save some more weight, I worked on the doors / window frames:

Drilled, shorten and tappered all bolts:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414624757.jpg


Lighter version of the glass base, this time all aluminum and Tubtaras:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414624884.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414624912.jpg


Window frame assembled, little triangle drilled as well:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414625062.jpg


Installed with belt (Aluminum nut and bolt hollow drilled:D ) Aluminum bolt as lower stop:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414625231.jpg

I love it. :)

Even a little save is a save... I replaced the steel bolts of the front flasher housing by aluminum bolts. Just drilled out the old ones until the head break, removed the threaded rest and the new ones fitted perfect:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414691927.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414691955.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414691976.jpg

70's BMW 2002's and the E21 chassis 320i that followed it used plastic thumbscrew nuts on the tail light lense studs that should fit your aluminum bolts. They may be a hair lighter than steel nuts and don't corrode.

I gotta say Roland, your build is amazing. The sheer amount of fabrication work and the level of detail is astonishing.
I'm sure this has been asked but if so I don't recall. Do you have a target weight your shooting for ? If not any idea on the finished weight ?
Keep up the fine work.

I will use aluminum nuts here as everytime where not that much strength is needed. But plastic nuts are good as well, will check this as wellSmileWavy

Thank you for the nice words!

Yes this has been asked before but no problem, long time ago since and goals can change... But as there was none there is still none. I just want to follow my principles and see what I get at the end.
I guess it will be below 1000kg.

Finally I found time to finish the weight reduction on the seat rails. As they are that beefy, especially compared to the FIA aluminum lateral seat brackets, I had no fear to remove some material here. They still are quite massive:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415369840.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415369861.jpg

Long time ago,but still nothing worth to show... be patient fellows;)

However, does anyone bought or had contact with Patrick Motorsports?

Want to buy an oil cooler from them and asked something using the form on their website, no answer since almost two months now. So I wrote again, but this time an email, no answer either since a couple of weeks... I do not expect immediately answer from small companies and one man shows, but this?

Other here, Brian is quick as hell and is alone too...

Talked to them about a month ago, good guys just busy.

Best is to call them. James is a good dude. I've visited their shop and have purchased from them.

Hi Roland,

any news?

Yes indeed, but not big ones. Made some spacers for the rear swaybar for two reasons:

- My engine is 10mm lower than stock, so tranny was really close to the bar.
- After I made my tranny beam Mark II out of aluminum, it was slightly wider than Mark I steelmade,
so I have to move the bar for that reason too.


And that's the way the spacers look:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422098644.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422098680.jpg


Present beam, not anodized yet. I am not sure if I should leave it colorless or go black (tend to black for now):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422098836.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422098866.jpg

I'd go black.
Still a pleasure to watch your progress.

While I still struggle with the finish of my tranny beam, I spent some time on the starter and anodized the raw aluminum flange to avoid contact corrosion. Further the grey stator housing looked so old I painted in black too:

Short said, only some different color;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422997853.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422997874.jpg

Hi Roland, nice work as always....what brand starter is that? Looks trick

been awhile
 

Hi Roland had to check in ,been awhile ...busy with life in general

But as usual your car just amazes me :eek: had to go back through some pages to catch up , but "WAY BACK" seen your front coil overs mounted. Wondering how much room you have between your brake line and tie rod arm ? could a 3" hoes fit :rolleyes: ??? I almost have the mock up done in fiberglass for the brake ducs . With my raised spindles I'm running my intake hose under the tie rod arm , but hoping I can find someone here to trial fit some on stock spindle height struts . Made some good mods to them to tuck them in real close and wrap around tube very nicely (not to long not to short) final products will be in carbon :cool:

Keep it in mind , I see you still have some time before you hit the road . I need the swiss watch approval :D
Kozmo

Hi Roland,

Looks great as always! I like following your thread and check in for updates. I admire your dedication to reducing weigth, it will be exiting when you put it on the scales once finished.

Just a suggestion about the starter bracket, remember that the starter grounds through the bracket and the anodizing isolates the starter from the gearbox. So you need to ground the starter in some other way or remove some of the anodizing to create contact. Saves a lot of tears when trying to find out why the starter does not work :).

Kozmo

May you post a pic what measurement exactly you want, so I will check for you