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Such an amazing and detailed build. Super good to see you back on it.
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This weekend I proceed with board. Almost done, just the fuse-/relaybox misses (not available instantly). Will be fitted were the protection foil is still there, behind the coil unit. Maybe I make some drillings at the area above connectors, let's see what mood I have:D
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Yesterday I received the fuse box, so I could finish the board. Looks a bit more clean than before.
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Earlier in this thread I anodized the starter mounting plate and noticed I forgot to leave an area free as the plate is also current earth for starter. So I thought about how to solve this issue. First I tried to shave off the area where the shim/nut is contacting, result: destroyed a HSS Miller. Looks like my anodizing is of good quality:D
So I made what I do normaly when I have to re-Anodize a part, etching but only the neede area. Therefore I cut some hoses and glued them on the plate to secure that I have only this area in contact with etchant. Throught the bore I sticked a piece of rubber as well. Now I filled some etchant in and waited about 1 minute and flushed the part. Done, layer gone:) Same I did the area where bolt for plate - starter was fitted. Looks not that good on pic as I made photo before flushing. Finally checked for resistance: 0.1Ohm which is perfect. Starter refitted and checked from engine case to starter housing: 0.1Ohm as well -> Done http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659076937.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659076937.JPG |
Your car has lived a very hard life my friend....... the only real way to properly revive it, would be to strip it down to a complete bar chassis. I mean all the way down to bare metal.
Then properly repair/replace all affected areas, then repaint and then reassemble. However, you probably already know this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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As I am not a native english speaking person, I was not sure I understand correct here, so I did not respond... However I do not care about, going on like before (hopefully a bit faster than in the past couple of yeard :D ) Still looking for the insulation stuff, but in between I am working on the wiring and other things. Update soon |
As I am workin on the wiring, I also removed alternator to make a new harness there as well. So I noticed some little leakage on cylinders to head, #4 the most, but all have some little oil "dust" Sooner or later I have to take care of it, just don't know when.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660504700.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660504700.JPG For this reason I started to make a list of parts I have to order. And of course I will make some "upgrades" when I have to open the engine. First I ordered some ARP bolt kits (Head studs, mine are still the stock ones from 40years ago, crankcase, etc...). Until I continue there, I proceed with wiring. Because I removed all the engine electrics, I took the chance and anodized the Sensor housing and made some bushings out of aluminum for weight saving, anodized as well. I use for all my aluminum parts (with only a few exception when no strength is needed) out of 7075, which is quit strong. About 3-4 times of the home improvement store quality. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660505288.JPG Another thing I have on the to do list since a decade is the throttle body. I shortened the body top end low end when I fitted the B6 intercooler to get it under the deck lid, was to high. It worked, but I was never happy with the result on the cooler side, almost no more venturi and o-ring not in a real seat. First i cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner (bought a while ago a professional one, way better than those DIY machines). Very nice result: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660505611.JPG |
I made two rings on the lathe, the lower one below the o-ring and the one on top to make a nice venturi. I made both 1/100mm smaller than body diameter there and shrinked them on. This way they want come loose. The rest of the black peaces I made ten or so years ago (all aluminum), still looking like new.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660505949.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660505949.JPG I am still impressed how nice and clean the body came out of the ultrasonic cleaner. I guess the cleaning agent was not unimportant, a special product for the industry to clean aluminum parts including corrosive protection. |
Disassembly almost done. Lot of things found to do. I won't post yet, because I will go on an not document everything now but will when rebuilt starts. I promise there will be a lot of upgrades and DIY things to show.
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Looking forward to it, Roland.
This build has been such an inspiration, I know there are a bunch of us looking forward to its completion. |
Cross drilling the crank comes to mind from this thread : )
Keep us updated... always fun to see what your doing |
I am a big fan of POR-15 as I own an Italian(the country where tin worms were born). You must follow the instructions and neutralize the surface before application but I have never seen it fail. My mechanic uses it on all the Italian's he services and swears by it.
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PS Hmmm banned for some reason :-) |
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Disassembly complete
Now everything is apart (to be honest, some little things still not)
Starting to evaluate what has to be replaced, what I like to replace and what else I can/should do at this point, starting that next week. Another thing will be the availability of some parts, for example I wait since two months for some ARP bolt kits. Some say on onlineshop "available" but when ordered, they aren't:mad: However soon more about. Here what a mess in my hobby room |
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Started with crankshaft bearings. Visual they look not that bad, bud will replace anyway. Some of them have marks I cannot verify what they caused. Only #1 shows already copper (or what's underneath)frontal and oppisite side. More wear visible at intermediate shaft bearings.
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Regarding crankshaft, I know it has been replaced over 20years /ca. 50'000km ago by a reman part. Try to find out (at the end measurement will show) it it's standard size or not.
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