seal from turbo to pressure pipe

[sundevil64]

Is this the correct seal for the bottom (turbo end) end of the pressure pipe? There shows to be a few choices.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-110-230-00-M100

The application is a 78 930 with a K27HF turbo into a stock pressure pipe. The seal that is there not is not sealing correctly may be one of my fuel issue problems with the addition of unmetered air.

Thanks,

John

[oilonly]

Someone correct me if I am wrong but that seal you pictured is only for sealing the engine tin to the up pipe to prevent outside air coming into the engine compartment.

[mark houghton]

Originally Posted by oilonly

Someone correct me if I am wrong but that seal you pictured is only for sealing the engine tin to the up pipe to prevent outside air coming into the engine compartment.

Yep, looks like the seal through the engine tin.

Here. try this one:
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-701-473-40-M213

However, if I'm not mistaken, the K27 series turbos (as opposed to the stock 3LDZ) require a special aluminum adaptor between the turbo and the stock up-pipe and the adaptor has two o-rings (one to seal to the external diameter of the turbo itself and the other to seal to the internal diameter of the pipe). That's what I have on my K27 7006. The o'ring pictured should fit stock applications only, I think. Somebody check me on this.

Get with Brian (RareyL8) if you have the adaptor and need the proper rings.

[Ronnie's.930]

Mark. the stock/OEM O-Ring (two of them) is what is used on the adaptor.

[sundevil64]

Okay, I have one of those. Does anyone have a pic of the turbo outlet (pressure side)?

I think I recall an adaptor being needed. I thought my HFS from Brian didn't need the adaptor?

[JFairman]

You're wayyy better off not using the adaptor and it's leaky orings, or selling it if you already have one.
Just cut off the oring fitting on the bottom of the charge pipe and it will be 2" in diameter. The outlet to the turbo is also 2" diameter with a rough sand cast finish with casting lines that will not totally seal against an oring so use an approximately 3" long piece of multiply 2" ID silicone hose in your color of choice and tighten 2 T bolt clamps around them.
Regular worm drive hose clamps will also work but the T bolt clamps are much better, look cooler, and are alot easier to get a 1/4 drive deep socket and ratchet onto and tighten up in that confined space right next to the motor mount cross bar.

With the oring adaptor it's a pain to adjust the clock angle of the compressor housing to get the charge pipe to line up with the intercooler oring inlet to charge pipe and sometimes it's impossible if the headers are aftermarket and position the turbo different.
With the 2" hose the line up problems are gone because the hose is flexible.
The hose flows air better than the oring adaptor too.

Here's a cut charge pipe for using the 2" hose.
I've sanded it smooth starting with 40 grit to remove the sand cast finish going in steps out to worn 1200 grit on a DA and polished it with buffing wheels on a die grinder and then never dull metal polish since taking this pic and will sell it because I have 2 of them cut for the hose and polished shiny now.

[RarlyL8]

Jim is right, if your turbo does not line up correctly with the up pipe you should use a hose. If it does line up correctly and you want to use an adapter I have them in stock. Here is a picture of one installed.

[sundevil64]

Thanks Brian. PM sent.

[JFairman]

Heres a few pics of the cut charge pipe after sanding and polishing the outside.
I also blended and smoothed out the casting marks from the inside with die grinder, carbide burr, and sanding flapper wheels.

With the bottom cut end blended and smoothed there is no 1/8" step in the pipe walls after the hose connection which could cause some surface air turbulance inside the pipe.
The bottom inlet of the charge pipe opening is now larger than before with the o-ring adaptor. That would probably let it flow better at high boost and speed.

I've seen stock charge pipes selling for around $75. With all the time I have into making this one look and flow better I'd like $100 for it.

[mooney265]

Brian, How do I get that adapter off of the turbo? Was it pressed on? Either way, I'd like to go JFairman's route: cut my up-pipe and use 2" silicon sleeve.

Thanks, Shannon

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

Jim is right, if your turbo does not line up correctly with the up pipe you should use a hose. If it does line up correctly and you want to use an adapter I have them in stock. Here is a picture of one installed.

[JFairman]

It should pull and twist off. It's just a oring squished against the outside of the turbo outlet which may still be rough finish holding it on unless someone used red silicone exhaust gasket sealer on it.

There's no way to know the orings on that adaptor are leaking air pressure until you have a turbo failure and then oil sprays out of those orings with the air leaking.
Leaves a mess of oil spray and spatter all around it.
I know, mine did that a couple time when I had an HFS oil burner with the o-ring adaptor.
I sold the adaptor and replaced it with the hose. So much better fit and easy installation with perfect line up at the top and a fraction of the cost.

[RarlyL8]

I personally install the adapters when purchased with a turbo. It is very easy to damage the O-rings when installing if you have no experience with them. They are pressed on and not easy to get off as it is a very tight fit. It is a more aesthetically pleasing solution for those who want to retain the stock look.

[mooney265]

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

I personally install the adapters when purchased with a turbo. It is very easy to damage the O-rings when installing if you have no experience with them. They are pressed on and not easy to get off as it is a very tight fit. It is a more aesthetically pleasing solution for those who want to retain the stock look.

Brian, so, how would I get it off? Can I pull it with the turbo still on the car?

Thanks,

[RarlyL8]

Nothing is impossible but it would be difficult. I have a fixture that I mount turbos to so I can install (and un-install) these adapters. Use a generous portion of very light weight oil to lube the o-ring and gently pry from the bottom while pulling from the top. The o-ring will be destroyed in the process but you never re-use them anyway. If the turbo is in the car I would take a drift and hammer and try to pop it off from the bottom.

[JFairman]

When I was using a new HFS I carefully removed the compressor cover and by hand smoothed the top of the exit pipe with sand paper starting with 150 grit to block out the rough sand cast finish and worked out to 1200 grit to finish it smooth so the o-ring adaptor I was using at the time would slide on and off a little easier without pinching and tearing the inner oring on the lip at the top and hopefully seal better than it would have otherwise.

If it's really hard to press and twist it on over that rough finished lip there's no way to know the inner oring wasn't torn in the process because you can't see it or test it.

Those o-ring adaptors don't all seal perfectly and will leak some boosted air and unfortunately it takes a turbo blowing oil mist out the compressor to visually see the oil spatter all around the adaptor and charge pipe to see that the o-rings were leaking under boost.

Also, the aluminum charge pipes inner oring sealing surfaces are often scored, worn, and pitted from years of engine vibration with metal to metal contact around the compressed and stressed orings and that can mess with the air seal too.

Cutting off the bottom of the charge pipe and instead using inexpensive 2" ID reinforced silicone hose and 2 hose or T-bolt clamps for the connection eliminates all these problems. It also flows air better because the inside diameter is smoother and lets the top of the charge pipe move around, rotate, and line up with the intercooler inlet o-ring fitting perfectly especially when aftermarket headers, turbo's, and intercoolers have been installed.

[mooney265]

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

Nothing is impossible but it would be difficult. I have a fixture that I mount turbos to so I can install (and un-install) these adapters. Use a generous portion of very light weight oil to lube the o-ring and gently pry from the bottom while pulling from the top. The o-ring will be destroyed in the process but you never re-use them anyway. If the turbo is in the car I would take a drift and hammer and try to pop it off from the bottom.

Ok, on the "pop up from bottom" method...

[TDIDog]

Can anyone show a picture of the charge pipe adapted with a silicone hose? Where do you get the 2" silicone hose? Also does anyone have a intercooler charge pipe to sell? I am thinking of going this way.
Thanks
jack

[Benny771]

Silicone hose and clamps are on sites like ebay and manufacturing sites as well.
And im supprised no one has posted a picture for you yet..

[TDIDog]

Hey Brian, Is that oring from the adapter to charge pipe a different size than stock. I've been trying to get a new one and can't find one my size. so far all are thinner.
Thanks
jack

[RarlyL8]

It is stock size, however with QC in the toilet these days the diameter of the ring can vary with manufacturer. Most are now smaller.