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if you are tracking go lower, just raise the pick up points.;)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409755637.jpg Esthetically I like the flares at the tops of the tires.I would lower your nose down and see how you like it. |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409765508.jpg
I'm going adjustable and here are some choices. Are any here that much better or easier to adjust settings? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409765628.jpg Or thishttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409765660.jpg |
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Option 3 is coil-over only, right?
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He's got a 76, so the spring plates are the "non adjustable" types... I don't have any first hand exp., but I've seen a lot of sway away and weltmeister versions on cars and floating around. I think they're basically the same to adjust, prob made by the same Chinese mfg too...
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Talked to Clint and he actually did suggest the sway away. Their high end is coil over. So I'll have 29 torsion bars adjustable ride height on an ancient car. What not to like?
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The only down side to the aftermarket plates is you will lose about 1/2" space in the wheel well, which would affect fitting fatter tires.
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1411053823.jpg
Parts came in yesterday. Could have the beast back on the road next week:) |
OK, here is my take on stance, but it is just my personal taste, way too low for most out there.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1411082997.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1411083027.jpg Now for the bottom line...What exactly do you want out of your car? If it is just to get it low, then adjustable rear spring plates and twisting down the front adjusters will work. However, it will ride like s#@t, it will handle like s#@t, trust me I've been right where you are at. I too started with the simple approach, like I noted above, bad end results. I then went a little further, with various different parts-n-pieces, still no joy. What I wanted was a low car, that rode well, handled very well, and was not too harsh to live with. When you drop a 930 very far, you lose too much suspension travel, bump compliance and steering balance, not to mention the fact that your suspension is no longer working in the proper range or with the proper geometry. There is only 1 way to really do it right...... Here is what I ended up with for an overall great package with virtually no compromises. Rebel Racing front control arm bushings. Rebel Racing rear spring plate bushings. 22mm front & rear adj. Tarett anti-sway bars. Wevo weld on rear anti-sway bar mounts. Strut tower brace. 23mm front torsion bars. 31mm rear torsion bars. Front spindles raised 40mm by ERP. ERP bump steer kit with welded braces. Von front strut inserts, custom valved for my torsion bars. Von shocks rear, shortened overall length, custom valved for my torsion bars. Fikse 18" x 11" rear rims with 295-35 BFG KDW 2's. Fikse 17" x 8.5" front rims with 1/4" additional negative offset with 255-40 BFG KDW 2's. Corner balanced & with aggressive street alignment. Tire life, about 10K on the rears & 18-20k on the fronts. No it was not cheap, but I could have saved about $750 by not trying the first two trial-n-error approaches, and just simply have done it right the first time. My .02 worth, take it or leave it. Mark |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1411092042.jpg
Here is the stance it's had since 95. It doesn't eat tires and tracks straight and true. I don't want to go much lower so its an ongoing endeavor. |
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once I saw his car I had to go the same route, ERP and Rebel will help in all areas Kozmo SmileWavy |
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My opinion of course, but the latter factory style wheels do nothing for the earlier body style. |
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Looks great. The RSR look will be very nice for your car sir.
Chris. |
Back from the alignment shop. All new suspension. Went with 30mm torsion bars in back which tightened it up a bit. Ready for some fall road trips.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1411760668.jpg
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