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I've alternated between NGK B8ES or NGK racing (don't remember the number off the top of my noggin). Both are copper. That doesn't make me an expert any more than the rest of the commentators here....but it's what I use and I use what seems to work for me. Y'all are free to use what you want, but the science of heat transfer rates can't be disputed, unless you don't "do" science 'cause you failed it in high school and settled on a career as a librarian ;)
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explain... " uh , no " gets nothing done SmileWavy I have never heard of anyone recommend running platinum or iridium plugs in a forced induction engine that has been modified. I know you sure as hell don't do it with nitrous or a lot of boost..... whats the point? you going to put 100K on one of these cars without changing the plugs? "uh, no" |
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I did the rounds talking to various individuals with practical knowledge in this area. All have had no issues with iridium plugs. Richard Clewett actually recommends NGK Iridiums for my Tec3r.
My guess on the video: Water cooled cars run WAY more boost than we do. 2 BAR isn't uncommon for a full tilt EVO with a big Garrett turbo. At that heat and pressure, thermal conductivity likely comes into play. At .8 - 1.2 BAR in a 930, not so much. |
While pre-teen Tippy demonstrated the kind of scientific inquisitiveness that would guarantee him success in later life, his experimental technique was fatally flawed in this instance. As you bend the gaps open the electrode alignment (side to center) is messed up.
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The W3DPO is a platinum plug.
It is also a copper plug. Oooooooooo! Quote:
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^ this is also what I discovered: Electrode, one material. Body, another.
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Awesome. Love to provoke thought on this forum. Beats the heck out of reading about Zorks too!
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Yeah, because I've had soooo many people driving behind me exclaim about my spark plugs "WOW! That is EARGASMIC!!!". Oh, wait... that's exactly what was exclamated by folks following me @ der recent turboPALOOZ'er... about... my... Zork. Things that make ya go hmmm... SmileWavy :D |
After 2 solid pages I still do not know what plugs should I use on my standard modified 1978 (Kokeln IC, Kokeln turbo 3.4 P/C, 7.5 compression and BB headers).
Are W3DO0 good or not? And, how often to change them driving aggressively on the street but no track? |
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Oh, and be sure to post about it so Speedy Squirrel can have something good to read! |
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Originally Posted by Tippy View Post I did a science experiment in middle school on spark plugs. I did this by using my lawnmower and a rig to hold the gaps for the spark to jump. I simply moved each plug further away until no spark. |
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I never knew my pre-teen anecdotal experiment would get so much play...... :D |
If you have the stock CD ignition and wires, W3DPO is for you.
This link to a previous post covers spark plugs in detail. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/837537-best-spark-plugs.html Quote:
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All spark plugs have copper cores, and "copper plugs" actually have a Nickel plated center electrode.
The small center electrode of modern plugs run at the same temperature as previous plugs. They have the same heat ranges available. They present a smaller area to conduct heat into the electrode, and they have a smaller mass to cool down. Actually, I think you would be hard pressed to cause pre-ignition with a spark plug in a 930. The exhaust valve is going to get you first when you push things out to the edge. Search on the late JBL930's posts for the worst pre-ignition I have ever seen in a 930. One last though, a vehicle I helped develop Is the Alfa 4C, 21.8 psi boost, 1.7L, 237HP, running NGK R 0.4mm center electrode. Quote:
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It's all good. I just wanted to yank your chain and see how many emoticons and bold font vowels you would cough up!
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Funny story... was pulling apart a blown up Boxster motor yesterday to start a rebuild and it had three Autolites and three Champions in it. People will use anything!!! :( These aren't Ford's or lawnmowers... one day people will understand. HaHa
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^ That is some Space Coast engine-uity!
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