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Great idea. Thanks. I'm on it today. Where would I find 2 inch multi ply silicone heater hose - auto parts store, or lover's pantry?
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I cut mine off
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Bernie has the band saw and the hose
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Ahh.....Bernie's Pantry!
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I buy it locally at a hydraulic supply place here in west palm beach that also has every type of hose made and it's made in the USA.
If you can't find it locally or don't know where to look ebay comes to mind. There are a lot of places online that sell it so do a search but prices will be all over the place if you don't know where to look. I think I paid around $2 for a 3" long piece of 2" ID USA made multi ply silicone heater hose. It comes in blue usually but the performance auto supply places usually have it in black or red or whatever. Only thing is the stuff the performance auto supply places have is usually made in China and sometimes it is thinner wall hose with fewer nylon plys than what you get from a hydraulic supply store which should have thicker wall sturdier hose made in USA |
Speaking of cutting it off......reminds me of a patient back in med school in Bako.......he tied a string around it to cut it off because it kept attacking him....not a good ending for him, unfortunately he succeeded :(
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Dude - no more medical stories.
Why not just get the adapter? |
I have a piece of never used 2" ID 3 ply blue silicone hose that's 7.5" long I'm not using. I bought it off the for sale forum around 8 years ago and I don't know where it was made but it's new hose in good condition. I think I paid $10 plus shipping for it and I would sell it for that.
A friend owns this online store and he has it like this and in other colors, lengths, etc. silicone hose coupler Measure how long a piece you would need because this one is 3" long and you may want to have 3.5" or 4" or whatever looks and fits best end to end. |
Is this the schnit......http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1456945545.jpg
K-man, the adapter is on its way, was thinking the cutting and coupling might be a better, less leaky fix as someone mentioned above, plus, it gets me back on the road today! |
Don't be so sensi poo Kenik!
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Cutting has its own problems. You end up trying to mate a silicone pipe to a tapered surface. It's a beeotch to get seated right without machining the pipe after cutting.
If you want back on the road, just buy some metal HVAC tape and reinforce the seams with gaffer tape. Done. |
That looks like it if it's 2" ID.
I've had no problem sliding the hose on to the bottom of the slightly tapered charge pipe an inch or so after cutting the bottom off and then putting a hose clamp or t-bolt clamp on each end of the hose. You can also smear a little vasaline or silicone lube on the ID to make it slide on easier. No leaks at all if you snug down the hose clamps. |
^ Agree - just don't cut it too short. And use high quality hose clamps.
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The hose is 2 1/2".......searching for a smaller one now. Also, thinking about stacking a set of o rings inside the lower flange if the pipe to create the seal, lots of silicone grease and avoid cutting. Thoughts?
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I ended up using O rings and installing the charge pipe without cutting it. Seems to fill the gap well, no side to side or up down play at the turbo outlet once the IC was snugged up. Lots of silicone grease too. The brown o rings you see in the photo have a high heat rating also. Now off for a test drive.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1456968124.jpg
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Does the top of the turbo outlet seat against the metal flange surface inside the uppipe?
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According to my flashlight check, it does. Say it didn't, but was against the O rings, what to do anticipate happening - leakage, no boost?
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I just think an unanchired o ring is not a good thing. Just wanted to make sure all of the o rings were seated on the turbo to ensure no loose bits in the IC.
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Agreed. I'll double check tomorrow.
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Kenik and I did 150 miles today to Mt.Vernon, Wa and back - car drove well, made spec boost when called for, held boost nicely, so no leaks. Need to get the low end performance improved, but that's fodder for another thread.
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