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Great tip. I'll be sure to do that and report back!
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Just the?!?!?! :eek: |
Kenik warned me about you guys........sick and wrong, sick and wrong........good thing I'm thick.......skinned that is!
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Sunday morning church .........http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1457889474.jpg
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Wiggle wiggle wiggle and it worked! Off for a test drive to see if she holds boost!
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Test drive success, makes 0.8 no prob! Now to check the vacuum advance. How do I rev the motor from the engine compartment?
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Well you can rev it from the engine - spring/throttle link down below the airplate. Below the intake body. There is a lever running from a throttle/spring plate thru the engine rear tin. May be able to get to around the back from RHS.
But you don't really need to. If you pull the dizzy cap, see if the rotor is able to manually flick freely about 15-20 deg rotation. Checking the timing is a bit different and you will want to rev the engine for that. "Kenik warned me about you guys........sick and wrong, sick and wrong........good thing I'm thick.......skinned that is!" Welcome to the dark side - of the 911 experience. Alan |
"May be able to get to around the back from RHS."
So you saying I need to do a reacharound! |
It is not easy to get to. Your air cleaner will be in the way, but if you put a torch and mirror around the back you will pick up the rod and can follow it back to the spring plate.
It would be much easier to get someone to blip the throttle if you want to check timing. Otherwise first verify the rotor is capable of free rotation. If it is not, you will pull the dizzy anyway. If you take the air cleaner off you may be able to reach over the top of the airplate and get to part of it. Alan |
There's sufficient wiggle in the rotor! Now to figure out how to get a timing light hooked up. It's a very tight dark space.
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Depending what type of light you have it is not too bad. Clamp around #1 lead. Power - you can get that from the fuse relay near the pipe you just fiddled with, and -ve coil from memory - you may be able to read it upsdie down in place - usually marked +/-. (Br/wh wire)
get you crank pulley to #1TDC. You will see the crank pulley has several notches. One each at 120 deg and a 4th about an inch apart from another. The 4th on the RHS of the 120 deg notch is your advance timing mark. The one 1 " to the left is your #1 TDC. You may want to mark both those with a bit of twink - easier to see. And you will see a notch on the base of your fan housing. Mark that too. Your timing specs depend on what type of motor/dizzy you have. On the lower RHS of your fan housing on the engine case - by the oil press. sender unit there are a series of numbers stamped in the case. This is your engine No. begins with a star and two numbers. This is your engine type number. Then we can get your timing specs. Good news - doesn't seem like you need to pull the dizzy. Regards Alan |
Alan, you've been quite generous with your guidance. I really appreciate it
The lead off my light which goes on #1 spark plug wire is bulky, and there's not much room at the dizzy cap. I'll go look for something more stream lined. My engine numbers read: *67E00636* |
Have you got the ign timing light thing that clamps around the wire? - or hooks in series with the plug.
If you got the one that clamps around you should find room near the dizzy cap. I can't find specs for a type 67. The brains trust will chip in with lots of info. I got type 66 and 68 specs - which are similar to each other. You can try these and see how yours compares - I 'suspect' it will be the same. Type 66 @900rpm vac hose (red) connected to dizzy 2 +/- 2 deg @4000 rpm (vac hose disconnected) 29 +/- 1 deg Type 68 @900 rpm 1 +/- 1 deg (vac hose connected) @4000 rpm (vac hose disconnect) 26 Deg+/- 1 So you are looking to be fractionally advanced from TDC at 900 rpm - with vac hose on dizzy connected, then disconnect hose and get revs up to 4000 (sounds horrible) and you are looking for between 27-30 deg advance. If you are close to these numbers, then you can assume your dizzy is all good. There are heaps of generous experts on this forum. I started from absolute ground zero and could not have done anything with my beast without their help. Regards Alan |
Ah, fellas......I think the engine type 67 on my car is an Airship 600 motor from 1977! See new thread I started!
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Nevermind, that's not the engine type, that stamp is in a different location which I'll look for tomorrow. It should be Typee 66 or 68.
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There are various timing pulleys with different marks on them - for different timing specs. The pulley is 360mm circumference - which is handy. If you lay a strip of paper on the TDC mark and mark it at the timing mark, and measure, the number of mms' tells you the degrees of timing at that mark.
But if the pulley is orginal I am guessing your timing should line up with that mark at 4000 rpm. Regards Alan |
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I guess your engine is not up to airship spec then. Regards Alan |
Hey man, just throwing this out there, if you want to work on your car in a garage, mine and my tools, spare parts are always available for other 930 owners (except Kenik). Im in Ballard.
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Fixed - stank' me later! :D Ravi, good job with the successful wiggle insertion of yer pipe. Regarding ignition timing information for your car - the US models came with a sticker on the underside of the tail (the underside of the right, trailing edge of the lid) that shows vacuum hose routing and timing stats . . . not sure if your year has that, though. |
You fellas are awesome. Thanks so much for the advice. Can't wait until Darth meets Mr. Hyde and the rest of the bunch over time.
I enjoyed reading what you wrote on medium.com Ballard man. I'll have to run out there and have a pint with you. I'll report back with my timing findings soon. Ravi |
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