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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Flower Mound, Tx
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Dap930 I have seen that and it looks a lot harder. I was not a big fan of replacing the bearings and don't look forward to doing it again.

Rebuilding the CV joints wasn't bad. It was faster to remove only one CV on each side of the axle and rebuild the other while still mounted. I still removed the bearings and cleaned everything up sliding the 2nd boot over the axle for the non removed side.







Old 12-27-2017, 12:04 PM
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New Years update

After speaking with Mark Motshagen and seeing his work. I decided to send my fan to him. His work is amazing!!








Last edited by Brian911T; 01-01-2018 at 12:33 PM..
Old 01-01-2018, 12:30 PM
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More pics of progress.
Fitted new turbo and crossbar.





My shroud was a little rough so decided to repair and repaint.



Used a fiberglass repair kit to fix some cracks and clean up the mounting holes before paint.








Riveting the air deflector



Last edited by Brian911T; 01-03-2018 at 08:18 AM..
Old 01-03-2018, 08:12 AM
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While I was working on the shroud the new flywheel and clutch came in. My old flywheel was out of limits and couldn't be resurfaced which sucked.





Old 01-03-2018, 08:18 AM
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Ok another item I wasn't planning but I found out when the previous owner did the swap he only ran one rear fuel pump. I decided to run dual fuel pumps like the oem 930's so I needed to replace my fuel lines so the tunnel lines could handle the pressure from the front pump. Also after seeing the fires caused by old fuel lines I wanted to replace them anyway. Thanks to Len Cummings (BoxsterGT) for making my fuel lines and helping me figure out how to pull them through the tunnel using the edger cord method.



After draining the fuel tank and disconnecting the fuel lines I ran edger cord through the old tunnel lines and the new lines. I also taped them together to keep the new lines clean.



This is a pic after I removed the pedal cluster at the front bulkhead. The '75 has a smaller return line so I only pulled the lines to this point so I could use a step drill bit to make the return hole larger on the right side of the photo.



This is the front side of the front bulkhead where I used the step drill bit from under the car. Dewalt makes a small right angle drill attachment which gave me access to drill the front return line hole without dropping the front steering rack. I also bought a step drill bit that northern tool sells that works with the Dewalt attachment. I used this method for the back hole before I started feeding the new lines in the tunnel.



After drilling out the hole and painting.



Best pic I could get in the small space after installing the new fuel lines and grommets.



Rear pic of the new lines and grommet installed.



I ran a separate relay for the front pump and fed the wires through the grommet at the brake master cylinder.



Attached the front pump to the front suspension after fabricating a mount and using some T-bolt clamps to hold it. I also used a piece of 2 3/8" silicone coupler hose to help quite down the fuel pump. I may change this later but its very secure.

Old 01-06-2018, 07:03 PM
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You're doing a great job!
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Old 01-08-2018, 10:11 AM
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Thanks Chris. This is my first Porsche and I am doing more than I ever thought I would be. I did small projects on my VW's when I was younger but never anything this involved. This forum and the people that take the time to contribute got me this far.

Last edited by Brian911T; 01-15-2018 at 10:44 AM..
Old 01-10-2018, 09:01 PM
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Had the pedal cluster out while I was doing the fuel lines so i decided to do some work on it. The paint was in decent shape so I just changed the bushings and installed the missing blue clutch assist spring.





I started installing the newly painted tins and the Rennline front cross bar.

Old 01-10-2018, 09:18 PM
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Keep the picture coming!
Awesome thread and great attention to detail.

Yasin
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Old 01-11-2018, 03:33 AM
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Thanks Yasin. Again this wasn't in my original budget but I couldn't tell if my oil cooler was leaking or if it was oil from the breather cover leak. My oil cooler was in rough shape and I later found out that it did have a leak that was repaired. I sent it to Pacific Oil coolers and they did an amazing job. I am so impressed with the abilities of people to restore instead of replace.

Some before and after pics














Last edited by Brian911T; 01-11-2018 at 05:14 PM..
Old 01-11-2018, 05:12 PM
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Short version pics of the wiring harness clean up. I'm not a fan of electrical tape and wish I didn't have any but I did the best I could without replacing the entire wiring harness. I found a supplier for the green wire connector and I found a product called Insultherm for the sleeving.


















Last edited by Brian911T; 01-13-2018 at 04:56 AM..
Old 01-12-2018, 10:59 PM
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930 Targa Engine Drop & Upgrade Project

Great attention to detail!

It's pictures like these that will now have me disassembling and redoing my fan, cover and valve covers. I've got time. The Trans shop told me two months. I know that means three.



And put some caps or tape on those new injectors. It's bugging me





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Last edited by 1979-930; 01-13-2018 at 07:29 AM..
Old 01-13-2018, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian911T View Post
Thanks Yasin. Again this wasn't in my original budget but I couldn't tell if my oil cooler was leaking or if it was oil from the breather cover leak. My oil cooler was in rough shape and I later found out that it did have a leak that was repaired. I sent it to Pacific Oil coolers and they did an amazing job. I am so impressed with the abilities of people to restore instead of replace.
I had several pinholes in my cooler. I was told by my local vendor (who I trust) that due to the way these are constructed, from memory bonded fins not welded, that repairs were a hit or miss thing if they would last.

I opted for a new ($1,000) cooler). Given the price and ease of replacement in the car perhaps its wise to give the repair a shot first, but keep an eye on it.
Old 01-13-2018, 07:30 AM
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I love the attention to the details. Mark does amazing work with fan and housing. Great job
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:12 PM
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Thanks for the comments. It bugged me too Derrick, so I taped everything to keep it clean. More pics I of the final items being installed on the motor.

Stripped and painted oil tank. I didn't realize the vent tube was brass but painted it anyway. It scratched 2 sec after it was installed by brushing against the tins. I plan to replace this later with a tank from RarlyL8.





Installed new Tial F46 wastegate with .8 spring.





New return oil line from scavenge pump.





After I took this I decided I needed to repaint the intercooler. I'll post pics.





Old 01-16-2018, 07:59 PM
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Youre doing the lords work, nice job.
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:56 AM
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Very nice work and thanks for sharing it with excellent photos. I have an SC but have helped a local friend with his 930, and was amazed at the Rube Goldberg-esque design of the scavenge pump drive....a roll pin driven by the heads of two Allen cap screws. But it works! Best regards, John in CT
Old 01-17-2018, 11:18 AM
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With a friends help I finished installing the motor last week!

Pic of intercooler after light coat of paint.



Had to keep that fan from hitting anything so I wrapped it in double wall cardboard



Lining up the motor mounts was a lot harder than I expected. Hard to tell in the photo but the extra weight on the left side was enough to keep everything from lining up. A 2nd jack on the turbo side helped align everything.






I installed a new sound pad and oil catch can I made.



Rebel Racing mounts.





I need to glue the corners on my intercooler seal. If anyone has a better solution or less expensive way to replace this over priced item please let me know.

Last edited by Brian911T; 01-23-2018 at 02:24 PM..
Old 01-23-2018, 01:02 PM
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What did you paint your shroud with? Mine will need some TLC when I drop the motor in a couple months.
Old 01-23-2018, 03:24 PM
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flightlead404 I used krylon fusion (color:sun dried tomato) as others had recommended on some of the shroud painting threads. It looks great but if I had to do it over again I would use Max2K for a more resistant finish. Max2K makes a really good 1K/2k aerosol system. Also, there are companies that will custom color match Max2k in aerosols. A buddy told me about this paint while I was researching paint for my rear bumper and valance.
Old 01-23-2018, 05:09 PM
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