smoking newbuild

[otto_kretschmer]

Trond,

How about just changing the oil to a dino oil and see what happens?

now I'm not trying to hijack this thread and turn it into an oil thread...….

but a change to Castrol 4T or some other dino motorcycle oil

or Rotella T if you can get it in 20/50

(hahaha..)

[Harry998R]

Originally Posted by brighton911

I am very pleased to report that my oil consumption for the first 500 miles has been negligible. Proper bore finish, new rings and valve guide seals seem to have done the trick.

I really appreciate the sound advice from everyone. Nice to have a completely dry and smoke free engine. I've been fine tuning the Megasquirt system to make sure A/F mixtures are staying out of the rich zone. I also added a knock sensor so timing can be quickly pulled back in the event of knock. And while you are in there was also in the form of an aluminum pressure plate, a new disc and a resurfaced flywheel.

Also, thanks to Craig (Cgarr) for the great job on reconditioning my rockers.

Now to get out and enjoy the driving part, winter was just too long.

Hi,

Do you mind telling me where you sourced the AFM delete pipe from?

Thanks,
Harry.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[brighton911]

Harry, I believe I was able to find them on Ebay. Three pieces in all. A short pipe, a flange adapter mounted to the original holes on the airbox and a length of silicone hose to connect the two. I wanted to maintain the original airbox because it works well. The IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is mounted in the backside of the right hand tube.

[brighton911]

Trond, As per US Chrome, the cylinder plater, I cleaned the cylinder bores with a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid. The paper towel I used to wipe the bores had virtually nothing on them. Not convinced they were clean or right, I then used red Scotchbrite pads mounted on my spring arm hone to further clean the cylinders. After much time on each bore, I found the finish still did not look right. I switched to green Scotchbrite which are a little coarser. Amazing how much "soil" came out onto the green pads. I'm assuming it was oil glaze. Now the bores looked like new, with likely only the original fine honing marks showing (the chrome is quite hard)

[cnavarro]

Originally Posted by brighton911

Trond, As per US Chrome, the cylinder plater, I cleaned the cylinder bores with a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid. The paper towel I used to wipe the bores had virtually nothing on them. Not convinced they were clean or right, I then used red Scotchbrite pads mounted on my spring arm hone to further clean the cylinders. After much time on each bore, I found the finish still did not look right. I switched to green Scotchbrite which are a little coarser. Amazing how much "soil" came out onto the green pads. I'm assuming it was oil glaze. Now the bores looked like new, with likely only the original fine honing marks showing (the chrome is quite hard)

We recommend using denatured alcohol with Kimwipes when cleaning Nickies.

If you have an ultrasonic parts washer, that is a great first step which will reduce the amount of elbow grease, leaving cleaning the Kimwipes/denatured alcohol as a final cleaning prior to assembly.