Surprise Xmas present from my 3.2 - broken head stud ... options for rebuild/upgrade?

[Maxhouse97]

Thanks - I’m pulling the engine and delivering it to them. The rods are still an open question, but I’m convinced tha5 I do not want to split the case unless crank play is out of spec.

[brighton911]

Tony, my vote is for builder #2 with a mentioned proviso to check the valve guides while you are in there. Unless of course you have the go faster bug.

[sugarwood]

Another vote for #2

Just to buck the trend of "while you're in there" and always walking out with a $15k repair bill if the engine ever needs to be removed. It would be nice to demonstrate to the community that you can get a head stud fixed for $2k.

[VFR750]

If you only replace the studs it could be very reasonable.

Take the heads off with the cam tower as one unit. Rockets and cam included. and cover it with plastic.


Pull the pistons with the cylinders if you can

Swap the lower studs for steel.

Put back together with new gaskets. Cam timing will be a little tricky but you could back the rocker adjusters full loose to manange the amount of load you have to handle when you rotate the cam.

I did this once where I needed to fix the cam timing on the right hand side (35 miles after a full rebuild) I talked myself into thinking a piston ring had broken and pulled the rhs p&c. Easy access to the studs.

Cost me <$400 in gaskets and seals and a new tensioner.. You would be less because you don’t need the c-seals on a 3.2 cylinder.

The problem lies in controlling the desire to zero time the engine “while you are in there”.

You’ll still have an old engine. But the only reason you are in there is because of the studs.

My Full, zero-time 3.0 rebuild, diy, was ~$10,500 parts. including the cost of replated cylinders and new je pistons and a repaired crankshaft keyway.

[786]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

Max - I think you'll have problems trying to run 10.3:1 compression on 93 octane gasoline.

I have a Euro 3.2 which I run on US 93 octane, never had an issue. I also know of several other folks with Euro cars here in the US for years, no issues either.

98/100 RON is the equivalent to 93 octane in the States.

[Walt Fricke]

I've never done a survey, but my impression is that 91 octane is more common than 93, state by state.

Does the alcohol required by most states affect pre-ignition/detonation adversely? Beneficially? Or is octane all that matters there?

[Cevan]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

I've never done a survey, but my impression is that 91 octane is more common than 93, state by state.

Does the alcohol required by most states affect pre-ignition/detonation adversely? Beneficially? Or is octane all that matters there?

93 octane is readily available here in New England. Can't remember seeing a gas station that didn't sell it.

[786]

I thought 91 was primarily California. 93 readily available throughout Texas.

Found this site too, may out help Walt. https://find93.com/