Engine removal........
 

$yncro,

Disengage the clutch arm lever before you drop the engine/transmission. If you do it later, you would regret for not doing it earlier. You could do it later but will require extra effort.

Tony

Engine Installation
 

Okay, it's been oner a year since I removed my engine and now, finally, I'm almost ready to put it back in. So, if you remember, for better or worse, I just removed the engine and not the transmission.

I understand clutch fork has to be set in the groove on the throw out bearing.

This is my first time removing and rebuilding. Any tips or words of wisdom putting engine back in.

Thanks,http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585538170.jpg

Good Luck !!

Engine removal & installation.......
 

If you think engine removal without the transmission was problematic which you had encountered earlier, try installing the engine with the transmission in place. There is no question about being able to remove and install a 911 engine with the transmission installed. You have done it. The question you ask yourself is “what is a better way to do it if I will have a chance to do it tomorrow?”

If you are the type of individual who enjoy doing it the hard way then go ahead. It could be done but at what expense? It is not how hard you work but how smart you did the work. Wish you the best. Stay safe.

Tony

1) patience. 2) go slow 3) patience 4) lots of tries until you get it right. 5)more patience.

Study the two parts - the TOB and the fork. Note the TOB has wider groove flanges on the clutch side than the transmission side. This allows you to position the fork so it will just clear the outer flange, but stop over the groove when it bumps into the inner flange.

You can spin the splined rod which holds the fork with your fingers, so you should have a good feel for what is going on. Set it where you think it should be to start, and slide the engine toward the transmission. Of course you have lined up engine and transmission, and have the tranny input shaft lined up with the center of the clutch plate. When you think you may have moved the engine in enough, move the fork. If you think it is in the groove, move the engine in more. Twist the splined rod. If it moves just a bit one way, and just a bit the other, it may be in the groove. Move the engine if farther, repeat.

If the angle of the fork is too far one way - call it wide - the fork will bump into the clutch diaphragm spring, and you can't get the engine and transmission to mate. Don't force any of this - some have said you can bend the fork if you push too hard.

If the angle is too close to center, the fork will just bump into the TOB - same precautions.

You really should have a borescope - for $10 or so you can get a USB one to use with a tablet or laptop. They have a quite bright light on their end. You can look in via the openings on the driver side of the transmission bell housing. An even better view can be had if you take the starter motor off before starting any of this, and use the scope to look in through the big hole for the starter. Actually seeing where your fork is relative to the TOB makes all this easy. Guys use the starter hole to watch the fork and TOB when they have tranny and engine on the garage floor putting the two together. You just need a borescope to do this also. Not a big deal to put the starter back on after you are sure you have the clutch release stuff right. Even easier with the engine at a down angle so there is plenty of room on the top of the bellhousing to deal with the upper bolt.

Before you get too far hooking up all the other stuff, hook up the clutch cable. Go step on the pedal, see if things are working right. If not, figure out what isn't working. If despite all the care you don't have the fork in the TOB, now's the time to reverse the process to where you can try again.

Sometime I have greased mine right back in. Sometimes it has been a bit of a rodeo. For my race car, where pulling the engine is a much more frequent occurrence, I've switched to a Tilton style push clutch to avoid this occasional irritation.

And did I mention patience?

Subsea - somehow you have two discussions going on on this same subject. Bad form.

As you can see, some folks have strong opinions on this topic. You asked how to put the engine back in by itself, so I obliged.

For you, probably the path of least resistance is to do what several suggest: disconnect the CVs and some other stuff on the transmission, and drop it out. Mate the two, and reinstall as a unit.

Me, I got comfortable (but not overconfident) crawling around under the car with the engine teetering on a floor jack while I pushed and pulled and tugged, and on occasion inveigled my wife to give a push or pull from the outside, all to mate it with the transmission. But not everybody is comfortable with that.

Engine looking good.

Walt,
Apologies for the double post, but don't know how these forums work and was concerned my first post was at back of thread and not getting read or any traction.

Anyway, truly appreciate your comments (and everyone else's) as they are very detailed and helpful. I'm getting new spark plug wires and a sound pad on Friday and then should be ready to go, just need to make a decision which way to go but consensus and path of least resistance seem to be removing tranny and putting back in as a unit. Haven't made final decision, but I'll let you know how I fair in a couple weeks.

Thanks.